E-sky E-smart - What tools should I have

[nasukaren]

• This is a blatant rip-off of Heli Yea's list of tools needed for the BCP, modified for the E-sky E-smart -- based on my recent plastic + metal build. Areas different from the Heli Yea's list for the BCP build marked in red. All credit to Heli Yea!

SCREW DRIVERS:
Slotted Head: you'll need sizes #00,#0, and #1
Philips Head: you'll need sizes #00,#0 and #1

HEX WRENCHES/DRIVERS
1.5mm: 1 req.
2.0mm: 1 req. (also recommended to have this as an L allen key as well to get inside frame)
2.5mm: 1 req.
3.0mm: 1 req. (for tightening main blade grips)

BOX WRENCHES
5.5mm(M3): 1 req.
7.0mm(M4): 1 req. (for tightening main blade grips)

OPEN WRENCHES
5.5mm(M3): 1 recommended, especially for securing locknuts inside frame - Craftsman has a nice offset open wrench set in this size (sears model #4308)



PLIERS
Needle Nose(long nose): 1 pair req.
Curved Tip Ball Link Pliers (600-size): optional (highly recommended make life easy) (straight tip BLP not recommended thanks Lawn Dart!)
Forceps(roach clip)/Hemostat: optional (help in hard to reach places)
Wire Stripper/cutter: optional (used for upgrading electronics)

HELI SPECIFIC TOOLS
600-size Swashplate Leveler: 1 recommended. (although frame is large enough you can fit small bubble level vials onto the swashplate directly)
600-size Pitch Gauge: 1 req. (my 450-size pitch gauge just barely can squeeze onto the 600 size blades)
Blade Balancer: optional (but strongly recommended)
600-size One-Way Bearing removal tool: optional
Ball link resizer (standard Align 450/600 size)

MEASURING DEVICES
Tape Measure: req. (measures in mm)
Gram Scale: optional (for those who have heli weight concerns)
Volt Meter(multimeter): optional (but strongly recommended)
Calipers: optional ( if you want precise measurements) (thanks CopterBoy)
Small Bubble Level(spirit level): optional (to get things level) (thanks Psilo)

OTHER MISC.TOOLS
Soldiering Iron: req. (40w recommended for fine work; 90 watt beast great for Dean's connectors)
Utility knife(razor knife): req.
Hammer: optional (used w/one-way bearing removal tool)
Drill: optional (for modding)
Dremmel Tool: optional (for mods and other handy uses)
Flashlight: optional (but helps you see!)

ACCESSORIES
Thread Lock: req. (use blue medium strength)
Zip Ties:req. (a good mix of sizes from short to long)
Sand Paper: req. (fine to coarse grit recommended)
Double sided foam tape(servo tape): optional (you'll need it at some point)
Electrical Tape: optional (can be used in place of heat shrink)
Heat Shrink Tubing 5-6mm diameter: optional (req. for upgrading the ESC)
Super Glue(CA): optional (but has many uses)
Thin piece of string or shoelace (to help thread belt through tail)

LUBRICANTS
Aerosol/Liquid: req. (IE WD-40, TriFlow,T-9, or similar)
Heavy Grease(ball bearing grease): optional (good for lubing main/tail shafts)
White Grease(servo grease): optional (for those of us who repair servos)
Dry Lube: optional (for ball links)

CANOPY BLING
Plastic compatible spray-paint primer / color / gloss top-coat in colors of your choice
Super-sharp xacto knife or scapel (for cutting out canopy "window")
Super-glue and Band-aids (for fixing fingers after cutting out canopy "window")
Window mosquito screen remnant (for framing canopy "window")
Two part epoxy (for gluing canopy "window")


BATTERY CARRIER
If you're making your own 6-cell battery pack out of four 3-cell 2200 mAh LiPos from your Belt CP (e.g., in a 2S2P mega battery config); you'll need to make a battery carrier which will greatly ease insertion of said battery and will protect it in a crash. Construction materials include:

• Coroplast (i.e., corrugated plastic) - I personally liberate / recycle the "I BUY HOMES IN FORECLOSURE" signs that litter my neighborhood -- make great hobby material, comes in different colors
• Other stiff but bendable plastic
• Cardboard
• Velcro tape is great for securing it

BONUS: COMPATIBLE PARTS
The e-smart isn't as great as the Belt CP in taking Trex compatible parts, but here's some of the collective wisdom on what you can share with other birds:

• Main rotor blades: 520 mm on plastic/semi-metal edition; 550 mm on full-metal edition. Can use Gaui/Outrage 550 blades.
  
• Tail rotor blades: 80mm from bolt to tip.
  
• Tail rotor system: Same boom diameter as Gaui/Outrage 550. Tail rotor housing can be replaced w/ Trex600 or Gaui550 CNC parts. (thanks Damyxz)
• Canopies: Trex600 and Outrage550 canopies may fit, but will require trimming and also redrilling of the canopy mount holes.
  

Thanks again to HeliYea for the original list!!!

[nasukaren]

Edit 2/20/09: Added 3.0 mm hex key and 7mm wrench for main blade grips. And a piece of string to thread the belt. :-)

[nasukaren]

Sears has a really nice set of offset metric wrenches that are perfect for tightening the nylock bolts in the ES600 frame. Craftsman 8 pc. Metric Open End Ignition Wrench Set Model 4308, the regularly price is $20 although I picked my set up for $5 at a flea market near my house.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

[damyxz]

The blade balancer is a must to have tool if you are in the RC heli hobby, another thing is a gram scale. Also a caliper is a must to have when installing a flybar and flybar paddles.

[nasukaren]

Added some notes on compatible parts. I've been looking for good tail rotor blades after mine snapped off on its maiden flight when they hit FOD. I really should get some better main blades because the stock woodies look rather sketchy.

I balance my blade w/ a razor blade to find CoG and then put them on my gram scale to make sure they're the same weight. Is this enough?

Also, can't you just use a ruler to install the flybar and make sure it's properly centered? I use my calipers anyway, but for some people it'd be another $20 to spend.

Karen

[damyxz]

A blade balancer is a must wighing it on a gram scale is inadequate unless you scale read up to one hundreths of a gram. A blade balancer puts the blade in a more or less real world situation where it is suspended by the grips. A ruler is inaccurate. remember that you are dealing with parts that rotate at thousands of RPM. Any minute weight or length discrepancy can translate itself into vibration which can affect the gyros performance and also shorten the life of your bearings and other moving parts. Make it a habit of setting your heli up as best as you can. You will appreciate the difference in flight when you try to be precise as possible. The cheapest CF blades with good performance I have found so far are the TIG's from hobby city and the 550 maverick wide chords from heliproz which are on sale with buy 1 set and get the 2nd set 50% off.

[nasukaren]

Just an addendum, since I can't edit the main post anymore:

Tools Required:

Two 7mm (M4) nut drivers are needed to unscrew the feathering shaft. This is larger than what is found in most heli toolsets.

Sears has one for around $8, although I imagine you could bodge together something using parts from a metric socket wrench set, which is what I did.



Karen

[sting35]

One thing that I didn't see on your list that's specific to the ES600 is a pair of snap-ring (circlip) pliers. I don't know of any other heli that has a circlip and they are a bear to remove/install without the proper tool.

[nasukaren]

Good call. If I still had editing abilities, I'd add the snap-ring pliers to the list. I forgot that I had used them in my install.

karen

[nasukaren]

SCREW DRIVERS:
Slotted Head: you'll need sizes #00,#0, and #1
Philips Head: you'll need sizes #00,#0 and #1

HEX DRIVERS / ALLEN KEYS
1.5mm: 1 req.
2.0mm: 1 req. (also recommended to have this as an L allen key as well to get inside frame)
2.5mm: 1 req.
3.0mm: 1 req. (for tightening main blade grips)

BOX WRENCHES OR NUT DRIVERS
5.5mm(M3): 1 req.
7.0mm(M4): 2 req. (2 nutdrivers needed to tighten main rotor feathering shaft)


OPEN WRENCHES
5.5mm(M3): 1 recommended, especially for securing locknuts inside frame - Craftsman has a nice offset open wrench set in this size (sears model #4308)



PLIERS
Snap-ring (aka circlip) pliers: 1 pair req. (for main gear installation; thanks sting35)
Needle Nose(long nose): 1 pair req.
Curved Tip Ball Link Pliers: optional (highly recommended make life easy) (straight tip BLP not recommended thanks Lawn Dart!)
Forceps(roach clip)/Hemostat: optional (help in hard to reach places)
Wire Stripper/cutter: optional (used for upgrading electronics)

HELI SPECIFIC TOOLS
600-size Swashplate Leveler: 1 recommended. (although frame is large enough you can fit small bubble level vials onto the swashplate directly)
600-size Pitch Gauge: 1 req. (my 450-size pitch gauge just barely can squeeze onto the 600 size blades)
Blade Balancer: optional (but strongly recommended)
600-size One-Way Bearing removal tool: optional (socket wrenches can be jerry-rigged to force the bearing out)
Ball link resizer (standard Align 450/600 size)

MEASURING DEVICES
Tape Measure: req. (measures in mm)
Gram Scale: optional (for those who have heli weight concerns)
Volt Meter(multimeter): optional (but strongly recommended)
Calipers: optional ( if you want precise measurements) (thanks CopterBoy)
Small Bubble Level(spirit level): optional (to get things level) (thanks Psilo)

OTHER MISC.TOOLS
Soldiering Iron: req. (40w recommended for fine work; 90 watt beast great for Dean's connectors)
Utility knife(razor knife): req.
Hammer: optional (used w/one-way bearing removal tool)
Drill: optional (for modding)
Dremmel Tool: optional (for mods and other handy uses)
Flashlight: optional (but helps you see!)

ACCESSORIES
Thread Lock: req. (use blue medium strength)
Zip Ties:req. (a good mix of sizes from short to long)
Sand Paper: req. (fine to coarse grit recommended)
Double sided foam tape(servo tape): optional (you'll need it at some point)
Electrical Tape: optional (can be used in place of heat shrink)
Heat Shrink Tubing 5-6mm diameter: optional (req. for upgrading the ESC)
Super Glue(CA): optional (but has many uses)
Thin piece of string or shoelace (to help thread belt through tail)

LUBRICANTS
Aerosol/Liquid: req. (IE WD-40, TriFlow,T-9, or similar)
Heavy Grease(ball bearing grease): optional (good for lubing main/tail shafts)
White Grease(servo grease): optional (for those of us who repair servos)
Dry Lube: optional (for ball links)

CANOPY BLING
Plastic compatible spray-paint primer / color / gloss top-coat in colors of your choice
Super-sharp xacto knife or scapel (for cutting out canopy "window")
Super-glue and Band-aids (for fixing fingers after cutting out canopy "window")
Window mosquito screen remnant (for framing canopy "window")
Two part epoxy (for gluing canopy "window")


BATTERY CARRIER
If you're making your own 6-cell battery pack out of four 3-cell 2200 mAh LiPos from your Belt CP (e.g., in a 2S2P mega battery config); you'll need to make a battery carrier which will greatly ease insertion of said battery and will protect it in a crash. Construction materials include:

• Coroplast (i.e., corrugated plastic) - I personally liberate / recycle the "I BUY HOMES IN FORECLOSURE" signs that litter my neighborhood -- make great hobby material, comes in different colors
• Other stiff but bendable plastic
• Cardboard
• Velcro tape is great for securing it

BONUS: COMPATIBLE PARTS
The e-smart isn't as great as the Belt CP in taking Trex compatible parts, but here's some of the collective wisdom on what you can share with other birds:

• Main rotor blades: 520 mm on plastic/semi-metal edition; 550 mm on full-metal edition. Can use Gaui/Outrage 550 blades.
  
• Tail rotor blades: 80mm from bolt to tip; K&B .30/.50 size tail blades fit
  
• Tail rotor system: Same boom diameter as Gaui/Outrage 550. Tail rotor housing can be replaced w/ Trex600 or Gaui550 CNC parts. (thanks Damyxz)
• Canopies: Trex600 and Outrage550 canopies may fit, but will require trimming and also redrilling of the canopy mount holes.
  

[nasukaren]

From another thread, here are more compatible parts for the E-smart 600:

Flybar:
damyxz: I use the trex 600 flybar...a little bit of drilling to open up the holes a fraction of a mm. I have not tried the outrage 550 flybar yet.
dodgytrev: raptor 30 - 50 flybar fits just grind the flats in the spots where you need em but getting a long tail boom 632mm seems to be tough


Tailboom:
bob valley: The tail boom from the Century Hawk Pro is the right diameter but is to long. I just trimmed it down and it works fine

[nasukaren]

I just bought a digital micrometer. Here are some diameter readings:


Main boom: 20.01 mm
Main rotor shaft / Mast: 7.98 mm
Tail rotor shaft: 4.98 mm
Flybar: 2.98 mm

This is the cheap plastic/metal ES600 edition so your mileage may vary. My mic can read to .001 mm but I rounded to the nearest .01 mm. I can't find my digital calipers otherwise I'd give the lengths of the components too. Can any measure them please?


Karen

[nasukaren]

I have the all-plastic edition and was thinking of replacing the plastic swash with something. The metal esky swash gets bad reviews for slop, so I was wondering if there was any compatible replacements.

The ES600 main shaft is 8mm OD....

So the trex600 won't work, it's 10mm

But the trex500 main shaft is 8mm... as is the HDX500 and Hirobo Lepton


Soo.... in theory the trex500 or HDX500 swash should work on the ES600. As anyone given it a try?

Karen


p.s. This in particular looks very good:



http://www.helidirect.com/precision-...0se-p-4216.hdx




or this:



http://www.helidirect.com/ccpm-swasp...se-p-11738.hdx

[nuttcaze]

I just bought some Century Swift 620SE tail booms from Heli-World for $5.95, they're longer then the original E-Smart tail boom so you need to trim it down a bit but its really easy to do, I made both a 608mm and 632mm booms today. Work great.

http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=9185

Also, Microheli should have some Upgraded Main Shafts coming soon.

[damyxz]

The logo 10 swash plate is a good alternative if you can find the 120 degree one. Microheli used to make a double bearing swash for the logo 10.

[Flip465]

Originally Posted by damyxz

The logo 10 swash plate is a good alternative if you can find the 120 degree one. Microheli used to make a double bearing swash for the logo 10.

They still do - now listing two different models in fact.

The one you mentioned - MH-LS2120 listed at US $59.99
And a lower profile model - MH-LS1120 currently on special at US $44.99 ( down a whole $5 ! )

With MicroHeli's quality they might be well worth looking into for the future. :-)

[Finless]

Stuck per request.

Bob

[nasukaren]

Well, I got a great deal on a Trex 500 swashplate when I was in Taipei, so I bought it:




It turned out to be an almost exact replacement. The ball links are slightly smaller. Using my micrometer, the metal ball links on the plastic head are 4.73 ~ 4.76 mm in diameter (gotta love E-sky quality control). The Align ball links were 4.70 mm.

So instead of replacing the e-sky link arms, I just snapped them on directly. There's the slightest looseness but they won't pop-off without effort. I might replace them with Align if I ever get a chance, but I'm in no hurry.

I'll post pix tomorrow when I have better light.

Karen

p.s. The fact that the swash fits makes me think that the rest of the T-Rex head mechanics might also fit. That means, if you toast your head, you can replace it with a T-rex 500 head. You'll need to do it in toto (i.e., everything from the mixing arms up to the main rotor blade holders) because the mixing system is different, but it's eminently possible. In fact, you could most probably use a Flasher 500 or other T-rex 500 clone CNC head, which gives me all kinds of thoughts since I have the plastic edition (and the first thing I did with my esky Belt CP was replace the plastic head with the CNC Copter X head).

[Donnie D]

That's good to know. Thanks for the info.

Donnie D

[nasukaren]

Here is a comparison shot of the ES600 and Trex 500 swashplates:



The Align swash looks smaller but that's because I hadn't attached the ball links yet. Here the Align swash is directly on top of the E-sky ES600 plastic swash.



And here from the side you can see that they are the same size:




I flew the ES600 today and it was flying just great with the Align swash. Now I don't have to worry about one of the plastic swash arms coming off in flight!

I'll post pix of the swash on the helo tomorrow, I forgot to take them today.

Karen