TDR Technical Stuff (Tips) & Build Videos

Mercuriell · 10-06-2009, 07:15 AM

I can see the there's going to be a lot of TDRs out there in the future so I thought I'd start a technical tips thread - by all means discuss and I'll do a top of page index for reference

All contributions warmly received !!

A Method to Increase Motor and ESC Cooling Air using a NACA Duct Mod - AussieMick

Henseleit TDR Build Videos - Mercuriell

Tips for VBAR - Helicraze

VBAR mounting

Mercuriell · 12-04-2009, 05:39 PM

Lost the tail last week and the poor heli ploughed tail first into the field during FBF - not too much damage at all. The post mortem only revealed one possible culprit and that was the threaded pushrod was loose and sliding in the CF tube. I had scoured the inner of the tube with a bit of wire and used 5 min epoxy but obviously not enough.

Didn't have an original Henseleit pushrod so I used an MA CF rod I had handy and made sure the threaded rod and tube degreased in acetone, pumped as much epoxy down the hole as I could and them seeped in some CA at the top for good measure. OICU812 has a good tip and that's putting strips of dental floss down the tube as well

Stolla · 12-07-2009, 09:16 AM

I've used ca on all my heli's so far so good

helicraze · 12-16-2009, 05:34 PM

After speaking with John, i replaced my 2 bolts on the main shaft (1 that clamps the rotor hub and the 1 that clamps the gear) with M4 12.9 grade shank bolts.
The ones i pulled out were bent even though they were tight and only done about 30 flights.

helicraze · 12-16-2009, 05:35 PM

Also I noticed that there is a patch on the main shaft were the swash slides that has a rough patch, but only on one part, its always lubricated, any ideas?

Mercuriell · 01-04-2010, 07:27 AM

Follwoing a recent boom strike after my tail push rod link came loose I suffered a loss of HS after the rebuild and found the top mast Jesus bolt had sheared. THe bottom mast bolt was also slightly bent. This reinforces the importance that this bolt is done up tight - using an L Allen wrench rather than just a driver as it is the grip of the rotor head collar on the shaft which is supposed to transfer power rather than the bolt. I decided to replace mine with a high tensile collared bolt both top and bottom and it is worth checking after a blade strike!

Heli G · 10-15-2010, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by helicraze

After speaking with John, i replaced my 2 bolts on the main shaft (1 that clamps the rotor hub and the 1 that clamps the gear) with M4 12.9 grade shank bolts.
The ones i pulled out were bent even though they were tight and only done about 30 flights.

My 2nd TDR was shipped with a new stronger bolt (414a) for bolting the gear flange to the main shaft.

helicraze · 10-16-2010, 01:58 AM

Finally, both my TDRs (after John discovered this) had 12.9 grade shanked bolts installed from new. I did email Jan and he said not neccessary, but after John had his one snap on spool up i thought otherwise (mind you it had a crash but was still straight). When i first took mine out (i bought my first TDR second hand), they were both bent!!! Top and bottom!

Heli G · 10-28-2010, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heli G

My 2nd TDR was shipped with a new stronger bolt (414a) for bolting the gear flange to the main shaft.

My first TDR shipped with the “older” threaded bolts. I replaced the main shaft bolts last night with the new “stronger” bolts and did notice that the bottom bolt (0414a) was slightly bent. I did struggle to get the bolt replaced since the flange (0414) and shaft was very tight – it may have twisted every so slightly as a result of the bent bolt.

The top bolt (0136) was still perfect so I’m assuming there is less force at the top.

g-bru · 11-23-2010, 06:15 AM

Is it a case of simply replacing the black bushings with the white ones, therefore not having to replace the whole hub?

G.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jointer · 11-23-2010, 06:18 AM

G-bru, yes, you need JUST the white bushings.
You can even use the hard o-rings which comes with the 2010, but expect the head will be very stiff, so i get now front-back tail wag under 1400RPM and ugly shake in hover at 1600-1700RPM.

helicraze · 11-23-2010, 02:14 PM

Yep replace the black bush with the white one, and remove the set screw that holds the spindle, its not needed. Flies nicer IMHO

g-bru · 11-23-2010, 03:25 PM

Ok fellas, thanks.

Will swop them out for the white bushes if I find the flight characteristics not to my liking.

G.

jointer · 11-23-2010, 04:02 PM

By my short experience, you get more aglility and more precise control with 2009.
But my feeling is you need also to control the heli more then with 2010.
For relaxed flights, 2010 head might be better, there is anyway some difference.

10-06-2009, 07:15 AM	#1
Mercuriell HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: QLD, AUSTRALIA	TDR Technical Stuff (Tips) & Build Videos I can see the there's going to be a lot of TDRs out there in the future so I thought I'd start a technical tips thread - by all means discuss and I'll do a top of page index for reference All contributions warmly received !! A Method to Increase Motor and ESC Cooling Air using a NACA Duct Mod - AussieMick Henseleit TDR Build Videos - Mercuriell Tips for VBAR - Helicraze VBAR mounting __________________ John Last edited by Mercuriell; 01-10-2012 at 06:14 PM..

12-04-2009, 05:39 PM	#2
Mercuriell HF Support Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: QLD, AUSTRALIA	Failed rudder pushrod Lost the tail last week and the poor heli ploughed tail first into the field during FBF - not too much damage at all. The post mortem only revealed one possible culprit and that was the threaded pushrod was loose and sliding in the CF tube. I had scoured the inner of the tube with a bit of wire and used 5 min epoxy but obviously not enough. Didn't have an original Henseleit pushrod so I used an MA CF rod I had handy and made sure the threaded rod and tube degreased in acetone, pumped as much epoxy down the hole as I could and them seeped in some CA at the top for good measure. OICU812 has a good tip and that's putting strips of dental floss down the tube as well Attached Thumbnails __________________ John

01-04-2010, 07:27 AM	#6
Mercuriell HF Support Thread Starter My HF Map location Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: QLD, AUSTRALIA	Sheared Jesus bolt Follwoing a recent boom strike after my tail push rod link came loose I suffered a loss of HS after the rebuild and found the top mast Jesus bolt had sheared. THe bottom mast bolt was also slightly bent. This reinforces the importance that this bolt is done up tight - using an L Allen wrench rather than just a driver as it is the grip of the rotor head collar on the shaft which is supposed to transfer power rather than the bolt. I decided to replace mine with a high tensile collared bolt both top and bottom and it is worth checking after a blade strike! Attached Thumbnails __________________ John

11-23-2010, 06:15 AM	#10
g-bru Registered Users Join Date: May 2010 Location: Surrey, United Kingdom	Is it a case of simply replacing the black bushings with the white ones, therefore not having to replace the whole hub? G. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ TDR3DRigid Mikado V-Bar 5.1 Futaba8FG S-Bus

11-23-2010, 06:18 AM	#11
jointer Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Prague, Czech Republic	G-bru, yes, you need JUST the white bushings. You can even use the hard o-rings which comes with the 2010, but expect the head will be very stiff, so i get now front-back tail wag under 1400RPM and ugly shake in hover at 1600-1700RPM. __________________ - TDR #2, 4525LE, YGE 160HV, MKS HBL950 (JR MP82S=crap), Outrage BL9188, Gryphon Quasar, silver Vbar + 2x sat, 12S Billowy 50C 5200mAh, Radix V2, EDGE 105mm, DX7 - TDR #1 sold (standart setup, 700+ flights) - HPI e-Firestorm FLUX, Spektrum DX3S

12-07-2009, 09:16 AM	#3
Stolla Registered Users Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Port Elizabeth South Africa	I've used ca on all my heli's so far so good

12-16-2009, 05:34 PM	#4
helicraze Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Victoria, Australia	After speaking with John, i replaced my 2 bolts on the main shaft (1 that clamps the rotor hub and the 1 that clamps the gear) with M4 12.9 grade shank bolts. The ones i pulled out were bent even though they were tight and only done about 30 flights.

12-16-2009, 05:35 PM	#5
helicraze Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Victoria, Australia	Also I noticed that there is a patch on the main shaft were the swash slides that has a rough patch, but only on one part, its always lubricated, any ideas?

10-16-2010, 01:58 AM	#8
helicraze Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Victoria, Australia	Finally, both my TDRs (after John discovered this) had 12.9 grade shanked bolts installed from new. I did email Jan and he said not neccessary, but after John had his one snap on spool up i thought otherwise (mind you it had a crash but was still straight). When i first took mine out (i bought my first TDR second hand), they were both bent!!! Top and bottom!

11-23-2010, 02:14 PM	#12
helicraze Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Victoria, Australia	Yep replace the black bush with the white one, and remove the set screw that holds the spindle, its not needed. Flies nicer IMHO

11-23-2010, 03:25 PM	#13
g-bru Registered Users Join Date: May 2010 Location: Surrey, United Kingdom	Ok fellas, thanks. Will swop them out for the white bushes if I find the flight characteristics not to my liking. G.

11-23-2010, 04:02 PM	#14
jointer Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Prague, Czech Republic	By my short experience, you get more aglility and more precise control with 2009. But my feeling is you need also to control the heli more then with 2010. For relaxed flights, 2010 head might be better, there is anyway some difference. __________________ - TDR #2, 4525LE, YGE 160HV, MKS HBL950 (JR MP82S=crap), Outrage BL9188, Gryphon Quasar, silver Vbar + 2x sat, 12S Billowy 50C 5200mAh, Radix V2, EDGE 105mm, DX7 - TDR #1 sold (standart setup, 700+ flights) - HPI e-Firestorm FLUX, Spektrum DX3S

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