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Old 01-19-2011, 04:56 PM   #181
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There is a lot of room in the TDR anyway
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:02 PM   #182
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Thanks, aussiemick and helicraze.
Seems this battery pack operation is more about how to fit the packs neatly to the logo.

Besides those two 45-90c packs, I also have one pack of 25-50c nanos (made by the previous owner of the logo) That one is assembled so that the wires come out both ends of the stick. Then there´s a CF plate on both sides and shrink wrap over the whole thing. That way the pack is easy to charge with two chargers, but connecting them in series requires some wiring and the connector on tail side pack needs to go through the hole in the frame.. not optimal in my opinion.
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:19 PM   #183
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If done correctly then both power leads are out the front of the stick.

It is simple to make the ESC power in leads into a series adaptor, A plug on either wire and a jumper in between to bridge the two plugs in series.

I am guessing the previous owner didnt think about lengthening the battery wires. It certainly does make it easy when both packs exit the front.

I will be able to post some photos after work in about 8 Hours.

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Old 01-19-2011, 06:20 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JiriK View Post
Thanks, aussiemick and helicraze.
Seems this battery pack operation is more about how to fit the packs neatly to the logo.

Besides those two 45-90c packs, I also have one pack of 25-50c nanos (made by the previous owner of the logo) That one is assembled so that the wires come out both ends of the stick. Then there´s a CF plate on both sides and shrink wrap over the whole thing. That way the pack is easy to charge with two chargers, but connecting them in series requires some wiring and the connector on tail side pack needs to go through the hole in the frame.. not optimal in my opinion.
SOmething like this.. Balance plugs on the front ..

I put a carbon plate on the bottom and asmall carbon plate on the center of the lipos in order to be protected of CB and Pinion and in order to be stronger...!



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Old 01-20-2011, 07:13 AM   #185
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Hi JiriK,
I have also 2 6S packs shrinkwrapped together to one pack.
The 2 wires for the series setup shortened and permanently connected.
One lead extended to meet the other one in front.
I did not mess with the balance lead for the 2nd battery, but is in easy reach, when the battery in installed.
The two white lines you see are just stickers to position the battery correctly with the frame for the proper CoG.
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Old 01-20-2011, 03:36 PM   #186
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Thanks guys, I think I found the way to assemble the packs.

Those nanotech batteries are so wide that if the pack is mounted sideways and wires exit to the side of the heli, there´s no way to install battery to frame. Opening at the front is too narrow.

But if the wire goes up and then to front.. No need to extend anything, stock cables are long enough to get connectors mounted.

I´ll have to make some cf parts sometime.. Now my table is full of miniProtos parts
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:01 PM   #187
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Here´s what I made for Logo.

Fits TDR too?
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:34 PM   #188
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Hi JiriK,
I was contemplating ordering the nano Tech batteries.
What are the real dimensions in mm?
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:41 PM   #189
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Nanotech 6S 4000 45-90C seems to be 49mm wide, 42mm thick and ~155mm long.
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:49 PM   #190
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Then there should be plenty of space to have them fit into the TDR.
Currently I am flying the 6S 4000mAh and even with the cable shrink wrapped on the side, they are about 56 mm wide and fit quite well.
Thanks for the info JiriK.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:50 AM   #191
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I made that pack for Logo 600SE originally and I didn't dare to extend those wires for right length.

I rather remove pack original wrapping and solder new longer leads directly to posts.
Scary job, but might be more reliable as there is no extensions in lead.

I'll have to order afew packs more and do some soldering job for the wires though.

-Samppa
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:12 AM   #192
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Yes, that pack is still the way you made it.
I´ll make two more pairs of those battery plates so all packs are the same.
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:30 AM   #193
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I upgraded Vbar to 5.1 - it was necessary to lower the cyclic value in setup to 80 (from 100) to get around 8 degrees.
I am probably around 9 degrees with 80, but i do not bother to get it precisely, because i know higher value here fools the Vbar a bit and can give better agility.
100 was giving around 11 degrees, which is probably too much.
Anyone have similar experience with upgrade?
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:28 PM   #194
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I still use value of 100, there was no change in cyclic.

Although i read that the calculation method used in the first V5 soft was wrong, if you downloaded the newer V5 PC interface the calculation method is correct.

80 gave me about 8.5-9deg with Jans servos and arm lenght. I went to 100 so i get the feel that i like.
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Old 02-27-2011, 03:27 PM   #195
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I just checked, i was using 5.0.10 PC SW.
Will see, i will try to test how it handles on 80.
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:46 AM   #196
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I was assembling a new kit and I noticed these holes



no clue what they're for, anyone knows or can guestimate ?
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:07 PM   #197
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I'd assume they are for securing the piece for machining??
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:52 PM   #198
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Possibly to drop a driver in to get parrallel with main shaft when setting 0???
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:13 AM   #199
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I'd assume they are for securing the piece for machining??

That was my guess as well.
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Old 11-01-2011, 12:46 AM   #200
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They are for pinning the blades for inverted auto rotations.
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