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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 08-03-2011, 11:43 AM   #21
jlharv
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I also have the V2, so if I have to remove the canopy any way, I might as well put the ESC up front, unless that is a heat issue. I saw that you cut a hole in the canopy.

I have had a lot of helicopters before, but for some reason I am really excited about this 700 (my first 700).
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:51 PM   #22
keither1984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrabit View Post
I'm running 1800, 1950 and 2050. One of the nice things about flybarless is that it doesn't require hypersonic headspeed to perform well. There is no real increase in agility through higher headspeeds. You do get a little less pop at lower hs but that can be compensated for by increasing collective pitch. I'm running +/-13.5* currently but I may bump that up. My experience thus far is that the tail does suffer a bit at lower headspeeds. I will be switching to some 120mm tail blades soon which should resolve this issue. My goal is to get it dialed in and popping at 1950. I think this is well within reason. 1950 should allow for close to seven minutes of basic 3d and sport flight with my Gens Ace 30c 5300's.

I have several years experience with vbar setup and tuning on a variety of machines and would like to be helpful. Let me know if you have any questions. If I don't know the answers I can probably point you toward someone who does.

Thanks for posting.

cool man that is one awesome looking bird with that pyro motor it look really similar to the align motor. any way I cant wait to get my dx8 back from repair i have not flown my heli or planks in a month but once i get it back i want to try and get my tail setup a little better and try to get my motor temps down but other than that I love this heli I suprised the thread is not like 20 pages long by now but its starting to move keep the setup and pics coming
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:20 AM   #23
terrabit
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Hey Thanks! Post your specs when you get a chance.

UPDATE:

I switched to a 16mm tail servo horn and 115mm Edge tail blades. I am also experimenting with some vbar settings. I'll post the numbers when I'm done tinkering.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:08 PM   #24
Maskman57
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Off topic, sorry, how do you add link to home field?
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:20 AM   #25
terrabit
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I'm sorry, I don't understand what you are asking. Do you mean a hyperlink? Not sure what home field is either.
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:00 AM   #26
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Thanks, I think I figured it out
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:39 PM   #27
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Terrabit, what version of Vbar are you running and what is your tail gain set at? I finally ditched the 3G after spending a month messing with it, trying to get the tail to stop F'n up. It would either pulse, or move 45deg on it's own. Drove me nuts. I got the Vbar on the Black Friday sale at midnight and have been loving it ever since. What a difference!!
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:53 PM   #28
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I'm running 5.2 Pro. Tail gain is at 90 with 115's and a headspeed of 2000. If your headspeed is higher you may need to go with a slightly lower gain setting. The pro version offers more programmable fields.
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:43 AM   #29
popokatepetl
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Anyone with Futaba's CGY750?

Please share your settings.
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:40 AM   #30
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Default Trex 700E V2 3GX main shaft bearings

I hope this is the right forum to ask this question: I just started the assembly of my Trex 700E V2, and I was wondering if anyone knows if the main shaft bearings are already secured in the bearing blocks with green thread lock. I tried to remove them with a reasonable amount of force, but I could not get them to budge. I think I can see some adhesive in the area between the outer bearing race and the block, but I can't be sure. I can't find any references to having to remove them from the blocks and re-secure them with green thread locker. Do I need to really crank down on these bearings to remove them, just to reinstall them with adhesive?
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Old 12-30-2011, 01:16 PM   #31
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floopy, i believe you have to heat the bearing block in order to get them out as well as in so my guess would be that no glue is required. That said, align might have put some in there. If it is a tight fit requiring heat i would not use the green magic loctite.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:18 PM   #32
terrabit
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I used a heatgun and green locktite. It wasn't difficult. Mainbearings tend to be a high wear item in my experience so I would recommend getting comfortable with the process.
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:11 AM   #33
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Thank you tomra and terrabit for your replies. I think for now I will leave the bearings in place and replace them when they become worn. As for heating them, will that cause any deformation (warping) of the bearing blocks? I know just to heat them with a heat gun, but will that cause any change to the block geometry to cause shaft or frame alignment problems?
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Old 12-31-2011, 02:22 AM   #34
terrabit
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no
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Old 02-01-2012, 12:46 AM   #35
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Hi guys, I have my 700e running sweet with latest blue 5.2, I now have a DFC head to use, did any of you have to adjust your vbar any particular way besides the usual setting up etc, did you find you had to lower or raise and other setting eg cyclic speed etc etc??
Thanks for any info.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:38 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by col View Post
Hi guys, I have my 700e running sweet with latest blue 5.2, I now have a DFC head to use, did any of you have to adjust your vbar any particular way besides the usual setting up etc, did you find you had to lower or raise and other setting eg cyclic speed etc etc??
Thanks for any info.
Col
No, setup was the same as old head, & it felt good with same settings as the old head.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:16 AM   #37
terrabit
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Mine went per usual as well.
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:10 PM   #38
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No set up info for a 3G?? I want to get fbl but not sure which one I'm just worried it's gonna flip itself my first flight! Is set up that scary on the first take off?
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:55 PM   #39
terrabit
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You'll hear lots of opinions about which fbl system is best. They all have their strengths and weaknesses but I don't really think there's a bad unit to be had. I've been flying vbar since version 3.13 (I think), roughly 2006. I am most familiar with vbar so naturally that's my preference. I did fly 3G briefly but not enough to offer quality feedback though I am certain that it can be setup to fly perfectly well.

There is a learning curve but it is not so steep that a noob can't get hooked in with relative ease. I highly suggest that you read up on the system you choose. There are usually some tricks to getting the most out of each system. Also, there is no substitute for local support, especially when you're having some difficulty. You might struggle endlessly with an issue that any fbl veteran could solve in seconds.

One possible benefit of vbar is that it is probably the best supported system both in terms of factory and fellow users. vbar was the first and still accounts for the majority of the fbl market. It's fairly easy to transact directly with a designer on vstabi.de or any of the countless users here on HF. Notice that I'm not saying its the best. You should choose for yourself based on your criteria.
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vbar CF Protos Scorp 3026-880kv, Ice lite 75, 9650/BLS251, SAB 430/KBDD 82
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:44 AM   #40
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Having flown both vbar and sk720 .... I would say if you want to squeeze every bit of performance out of your heli, go vbar..... but if I were going to buy again I will go back to the sk720 so many more good features and plus with the new fw they released it should be even better then when I had it.
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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.

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