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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 04-30-2012, 06:43 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deet View Post
Its the short swash balls you need on the inner swash and as there are only 2 links now its pretty obvious where they need to go
Are the "short" swash balls not the same ones that come on the I2 swash? M2.5 X 3.5(4.75 X 9.77) Linkage ball A. Must be the ones used on the SF mixing arms on FB. M2.5 X 3.5(4.75 X 8.18)? BTW, I'm converting from FB. Must have missed that additional bit of info.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:15 AM   #142
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I used the stock swash balls on the ESP and everythings fine. I'm guessing like all other things, everyones setup is different.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:00 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderer56 View Post
Are the "short" swash balls not the same ones that come on the I2 swash? M2.5 X 3.5(4.75 X 9.77) Linkage ball A. Must be the ones used on the SF mixing arms on FB. M2.5 X 3.5(4.75 X 8.18)? BTW, I'm converting from FB. Must have missed that additional bit of info.
Have all my parts on order, including the swash balls. Hope to clear this up for others when I put the head together. Hard to visualise why the shorter swash balls are needed v the stock originals at the moment.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:12 PM   #144
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Its all about the resolution and which FBL controler you have.
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:51 PM   #145
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Its about getting the mechanical gain of the head right
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:52 AM   #146
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I found short balls (sounds funny saying that!) in my spares. Will I need it for AR7200BX? Or will it be trial-and-error?
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:42 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deet View Post
the spacers won't have an effect on the main and auto gears wobbling

To make sure you have the spacers right grab the frame in one hand, the head block in the other and try to pull the head out/push it back into the frame. If you feel ,movement, you need more/thicker shims
So here is an ever so small gap that can be made. Is there a spacer between the main gear and frame because my main gear rose to the frame and got a shaving?
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:44 PM   #148
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Sounds like you could be a victim of OWB (one-way-bearing) movement. The owb sleeve would prevent the main gear from moving up that high unless the main bearing block was installed upside down or the owb slipped/spun inside the hub and allowed the gear and hub to move up on the owb. Frequent problem lately.

Check and see if it has moved.

If you look at the way it was designed, the auto rotation gear will be secured against the owb sleeve and the lower main bearing and does not move. The owb, hub and main gear "float" on the sleeve. There is a spacer between the main and auto gear that will reduce excess play between these gears and diagonal wobble in the main gear. Increasing the thickness of the shim will reduce the diagonal and horizontal movement of the main gear. Using the main shaft shim kit from a 550 and selecting the combination that reduces movement even more without the two gears binding together or creating too much friction takes a lot of the slop out of the main gear. Anyway we've gotten off of the thread topic. My apologies.

Lets get back on topic.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:31 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Way2evl View Post
So here is an ever so small gap that can be made. Is there a spacer between the main gear and frame because my main gear rose to the frame and got a shaving?
yep your OWB has moved inside the hub
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:38 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deet View Post
Its the short swash balls you need on the innerswashn and as there are only 2 links now its pretty obvious where they need to go
Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderer56 View Post
Are the "short" swash balls not the same ones that come on the I2 swash? M2.5 X 3.5(4.75 X 9.77) Linkage ball A. Must be the ones used on the SF mixing arms on FB. M2.5 X 3.5(4.75 X 8.18)? BTW, I'm converting from FB. Must have missed that additional bit of info.
Anyone have a part number for the shorter balls? Trying to convert from Flybar to DFC. Thanks.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:45 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deet View Post
yep your OWB has moved inside the hub
This may sound silly, but can I push it out or do I need to purchase a new one?
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:52 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Way2evl View Post
This may sound silly, but can I push it out or do I need to purchase a new one?
Yes, you can push it out and insert a new one inside. Check THIS THREAD, post #12 onward.

Last edited by Mateyhv; 05-03-2012 at 02:40 AM.. Reason: Link repaired, sorry
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:36 AM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ualdrivr View Post
Anyone have a part number for the shorter balls? Trying to convert from Flybar to DFC. Thanks.
These are the ones I've ordered - Align Linkage Ball
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:50 AM   #154
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Yes, you can push it out and insert a new one inside. Check THIS THREAD, post #12 onward.
Link didn't work.

I fixed it. You got www.helifreak in there twice.
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Old 05-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #155
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Quote:
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These are the ones I've ordered - Align Linkage Ball
Excellent that's what I had figured too. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:41 AM   #156
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Quote:
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Link didn't work.

I fixed it. You got www.helifreak in there twice.
Thank you, link repaired
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:36 PM   #157
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So the one way bearing does not move. It is glued in there very tight.

If I push from the bottom of the auto rotation gear upwards, the whole assembly moves up. It moves about a 1/16". Is is possible to put a spacer on top of the main gear between the bearing block and main gear like with the t-rex 450's?

I don't believe the bearing block is upide down, how would I tell?

Can put another shim on the upper main block where I put the two for the dfc main shaft because it will pull the main gear up too high.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:28 PM   #158
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something isn't right, if they are the metal bearing blocks on the ESP then the writing should be on top on the top block and on the bottom of the bottom block

the top of the OWB holder should sit into the bearing holder, the main gear should be low enough to clear the frame

From what you describe, something is not assembled correctly in the main/auto gear section. This will have nothing to do with the new main shaft or the spacer shims.

BTW the Pro hubs seems to have a serious issue where the OWB moves inside the holder and produces exactly what you describe.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:25 PM   #159
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Well the shims should have a small part in the main gear and the auto gear. If you have no shims then the main gear assembly hangs too low and there is play. If you shim it just right there is no play and the top of the OWB hub sits in the bearing holder.
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Last edited by Way2evl; 05-03-2012 at 10:29 PM..
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:15 PM   #160
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Yep, I can see writing on both blocks from the top. There is no excuse for this.

Does it even make a difference? Looks like the spacing is the same on both sides.
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