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Old 05-06-2012, 04:54 PM   #21
cbarneg
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Oz - I have a UH-1 scale with mechanics from a Trex 500 FBL that also is quite heavy. When I first built her I had been using 433mm Edge blades with a head speed of about 2800. She flew like a tank. Eventually I went to the 473mm Edge blades (and 92mm Edge tail blades to balance her out) and reduced the speed to around 2300. All of a sudden she was fun to fly. I that your comments about the longer blades was right on.

I did actually try reducing the speed below 2200 but I started getting tail issues just like the original Trex. She seems much happier with a higher head speed but by not going quite as high as before I am getting 14-15 minutes per flight (two 6S 3200mah in parallel).
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:08 PM   #22
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I was "ready" for a test hop of the T500ESP mechanics today, but a last second check of gyro reaction direction showed a setup error. I have checked a number of setup details, and didn't find the problem, so I will have to go back through setup...hoping later tonight. For now, I am going to try the stock bevel set, but it looks marginal at best for a 500. I would like to run much larger tail blades, perhaps 80mm, so I plan to change to the HeliArtist bevels before I attempt to stuff the works into the fuse.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:08 PM   #23
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I went back through Vbar setup. I had to input a custom swash, and I am not sure why. I had to swap channel 2 and 3. I noticed that Vbar referred to my config as "120 ccpm reversed". Hmmm. So, I went into the custom swash menu and swapped positions of channels 2 and 3, and that took care of the reversed reactions. So, since I had a charged lipo (can't leave it at full charge, now can I? LOL) and just a smidge of day light left, I went out for a short hop. It was excellent! Super smooth. The fore-aft oscillates a little after input, so I need to adjust the gains a bit, but the tail was silky, and my "scale setup" in Vbar tended to do the deal. It looks like with Vbar, it will be superb for low altitude hovering, and moving around like we often see with Whiskeys on vids. I was pretty stoked. I've been flying bigger helis since about 2009, so this is the first time I flew anything smaller than a true 550 mm rotor in a couple of years.

I will move on to my fuse painting, and pilot details next. I don't really want to fly the mechanics much at this point. It will fly different with the mass additions anyway, so adjustments in Vbar will be left for a full compliment of ordinance.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:36 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bladerunner469 View Post
Very nice flying ozflyer
Thanks Bladerunner

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Originally Posted by DWSchmidt View Post
Oz/Rob,

Want to make sure - are you using the Align fuse with the stock tail gears or using the HeliArtist tail gears? My was thinking of converting my Raptor E550 to scale, but I am now thinking of just getting either the Heliartist or Align 500 cobra.

Of course, I don't have a 500 size heli, so I'll probably need to get one of those as well.

I will also likely go with the 473mm blades and a lower headspeed to keep the rotor loading down and fly longer. Have you found that you need larger than standard tail blades to keep the tail under control?

Thanks!

D.W.
Yes Align fuse with heliartist gears if you get the heliartist kit the boom and TT is the right size otherwise you need to make your own to get the heliartist gears into the Align fuse.
If you buy a 500ESP all the parts are interchangeable but if you get a 500 PRO the frames are spaced differently and you need to buy the parts off an ESP as well, Align are now making a kit to do this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cbarneg View Post
Oz - I have a UH-1 scale with mechanics from a Trex 500 FBL that also is quite heavy. When I first built her I had been using 433mm Edge blades with a head speed of about 2800. She flew like a tank. Eventually I went to the 473mm Edge blades (and 92mm Edge tail blades to balance her out) and reduced the speed to around 2300. All of a sudden she was fun to fly. I that your comments about the longer blades was right on.

I did actually try reducing the speed below 2200 but I started getting tail issues just like the original Trex. She seems much happier with a higher head speed but by not going quite as high as before I am getting 14-15 minutes per flight (two 6S 3200mah in parallel).
cbarneg that's great to hear that it has worked for you


Looking forward to seeing some pics Rob
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:18 AM   #25
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I ordered the HeliArtist bevel set last night, and the short boom kit, so I'd have one stock set, and one mod'd. I guess I didn't think the $38USD for the HA set was bad. I ordered a set of KBDD 84mm tail blades with so I could test lowering the headspeed. I don't think the tail will be as much of an issue as would be the fore-aft stability. This airframe has long been known to reward high headspeed with improving flight characteristics. There's some fun in trying, though.

I'll post a few pics of my chassis for the good of the order this evening. I guess to document where I am at. You also might be interested to see the Spin 465's net to Align 425's.
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #26
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Not much to report. I've pondered painting. Masked off and ready to prime. However, I stumbled a bit when I mounted the little fin-shaped antennae. I bought the Grey Ghost colors to shoot and even an auto detail gun to shoot base coats with. The model is actually modeled after the tri-color camo (all first edition AH-1W's were said to be this scheme until painted otherwise for specific deployments).



Of course, the stock paint doesn't look much like it. The Align grey is far too dark, and the camo edges are too soft compared to the image above. I am torn between going with the stock paint, or covering with primer and shooting the above scheme. Apparently, the green above is Medium Field Green. I would think the camo pattern would perhaps be done using stencils to make for the edges...anyone have advice on this? I believe the above color pattern would also be easier to see ion flight as well.
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:17 AM   #27
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I'm going with the current ghost grey, ghost blue and dark grey scheme. The woodlands camouflage works way too well at my normal field. I've lost orientation more than a few times banking for a turn against the tree line.
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:48 PM   #28
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I have about concluded that as well. I have the paints to do it, and I'd also comment that I think the grey ghost scheme takes well to adding the weathering details, and exhaust staining. Here's a clean one:

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Old 05-15-2012, 03:39 PM   #29
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If you all need pictures or detail shots of the Cobra, Let me know. I work with them so I can get plenty of pics.
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Old 05-15-2012, 03:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
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If you all need pictures or detail shots of the Cobra, Let me know. I work with them so I can get plenty of pics.
That would be fantastic if you could post some pics.

Rob and Classax I'm used to looking at mine now but I think they look a lot better with the grey colour scheme.

Just hard to get motivated to pull it apart and get a friend to paint it.
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:18 PM   #31
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Here are some for now. I will get some more uploaded so I can post them up later.
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Old 05-15-2012, 05:28 PM   #32
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That version is cool, but has those exhaust nozzle diffusers which would need to be fabricated. I am not that motivated! LOL! Your pics are appreciated!

I am thinking of doing the gray mostly for visibility. Off to the craft store to get supplies! Chalk, pencils for panel lines, etc. Balsa to reinforce the winglets.

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Old 05-15-2012, 07:54 PM   #33
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Here is a link in case you wanted to add a splash of color and do a CAG bird
http://www.amv83.fr/Navycag/usmc-hmla.html
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:32 AM   #34
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Thanks, Classax and Convict! I am rather sold on that HMLA-169 (the page says 163, but the bird is flying 169). Love the accent color use on the drive tube cover on top of the boom! WOW! Just what I was looking for!

On the skids, is that black material a non-skid gritty material, or more like something rubberized?

Also, any chance of finding another closer pic of the iron cross on the engine nacelle?


I worked on some winglet details last night. I am addiing some reinforcement behind them inside the fuse and plan to use a metal tube and bushing to slide them off when hauling. Magnets will hold them on. I will share pics when I have something worth showing.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:43 AM   #35
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It is Non-Skid.
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:16 AM   #36
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Thanks! Maybe I tack some finer grit sandpaper to my skids.
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:18 PM   #37
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It actually is very easy to make your own non-skid. Just get some same, preferably a fine coarseness, and put it in a mixture with the paint. Now dab on with a brush and let it dry in place. It will look better than having sandpaper glued on.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:45 AM   #38
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Thanks, Classax and Convict27 for the photos

Convict27 I had a look at your photos on photobucket, you have taken some really great shots.

Steve
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:36 AM   #39
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Thanks Steve, I am a crew chief on CH46E so I get a lot of good shots up close and personal. Benefits of the job I guess.
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:50 PM   #40
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Default A little progress on the cockpit set...

With my modified McFarlane pilots, and the Align cockpit, I had to separate the legs from the torso, and reattach. As stated elsewhere, the seats aren't quite low enough. I cheated alot here, but I think the results are pretty reasonable.


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