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Old 08-31-2012, 11:59 AM   #141
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Using blue loctite as a gasket seems like a bad idea to me? Surely the heat would just melt it very quickly, letting it run in the engine?
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:38 AM   #142
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Using blue loctite as a gasket seems like a bad idea to me? Surely the heat would just melt it very quickly, letting it run in the engine?
I use blue hylomar ( http://www.autostartonline.co.uk/hyl...-40g-520-p.asp ) no problems.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:22 AM   #143
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:56 AM   #144
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edited, sorry I found the answer
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:10 AM   #145
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Using blue loctite as a gasket seems like a bad idea to me? Surely the heat would just melt it very quickly, letting it run in the engine?
No it doesnt melt and it doesnt run anywhere. Locttite is a cyanoacrylate compound and heat will degrade it not melt it, his doesnt happen though much below 200C, much hotter than our engines run. If you dont like the idea fine, dont try it! But it has worked well for me and I've been through the whole range of gaskets, silicones and dry lapping techniques!
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:04 AM   #146
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The question about applying the PC Fahrenheit epoxy has been asked multiple times here in this thread, and several others on different sites, and either everyone seems to ignore it, or doesnt know. Does anybody "really" use this stuff???

I have been neglecting using it just "because" it seems pretty horrible to apply! I couldnt imagine what that stuff would do to your piston/sleeve if a piece of it broke off and went up through it.

So how do you apply it? I know finless don't really visit these parts much any more, but how about a bit of an illustration on a half decent method to apply it?

I honestly tried it on my 91 HZ with Funtech B301 pipe today, and talk about a miserable experience! If anyone knows this pipe at all, you would know it comes with a fairly large adapter plate. I have had nothing but issues getting this muffler to seal with aluminum gaskets, fiber gaskets, or even Red Silicone. I would very much like to see this epoxy work for me, since everyone seems to rave about how well it "does" work.

I havent flown on this stuff yet. What I did was tighten the screws down just enough so that that epoxy started to squish out of the edges of the flange; then let it sit until it cured. I then removed the screws and applied Red loctite and snugged them back down evenly.

If anybody here really has good experience with this stuff, please tell us what works for you.

Thanks!
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:54 AM   #147
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i had a ruff time sealing up my muffler turned out the case was warped around the exshaust port. i tried PC Fahrenheit epoxy and had a ruff time putting in on a also would like to know how to put this stuff on
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:16 AM   #148
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Originally Posted by Cra-Z-1 View Post
The question about applying the PC Fahrenheit epoxy has been asked multiple times here in this thread, and several others on different sites, and either everyone seems to ignore it, or doesnt know. Does anybody "really" use this stuff???

I have been neglecting using it just "because" it seems pretty horrible to apply! I couldnt imagine what that stuff would do to your piston/sleeve if a piece of it broke off and went up through it.

So how do you apply it? I know finless don't really visit these parts much any more, but how about a bit of an illustration on a half decent method to apply it?

I honestly tried it on my 91 HZ with Funtech B301 pipe today, and talk about a miserable experience! If anyone knows this pipe at all, you would know it comes with a fairly large adapter plate. I have had nothing but issues getting this muffler to seal with aluminum gaskets, fiber gaskets, or even Red Silicone. I would very much like to see this epoxy work for me, since everyone seems to rave about how well it "does" work.

I havent flown on this stuff yet. What I did was tighten the screws down just enough so that that epoxy started to squish out of the edges of the flange; then let it sit until it cured. I then removed the screws and applied Red loctite and snugged them back down evenly.

If anybody here really has good experience with this stuff, please tell us what works for you.

Thanks!
I run the same pipe on my 91HZ and i noticed that it leaked at the the adapter plate from day one.
After a closer look i concluded that the long M4 bolts are just a hair too long making it impossible to seat the pipe to the plate properly. Shave some off the bolts resolved it. And i just use normal rtv to seal, never had any problems with it.
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:46 PM   #149
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I run the same pipe on my 91HZ and i noticed that it leaked at the the adapter plate from day one.
After a closer look i concluded that the long M4 bolts are just a hair too long making it impossible to seat the pipe to the plate properly. Shave some off the bolts resolved it. And i just use normal rtv to seal, never had any problems with it.
Thank you for the reply. In my kit, the bolts are short enough. I have checked them to make sure. I've noticed that the adapter plate is not flat. I'm pretty sure that's where my problems are originating from. I've also been curious; with this type of design, if the burned fuel residue is just travelling down the bolt channel. I wish they would have made the adapter plate thicker, and not punched the engine side holes all the way through. I'm not a big fan of the method of tying it to the engine. I love the pipe though.

I tried the PC Fahrenheit on both the adapter plate to muffler, and Adapter plate to engine, and the engine side leaked out real bad; the worst of anything yet, but I think it was because I took too long getting the surfaces mated. On the side of the muffler to adapter plate the stuff sealed it off great. I shouldnt have to remove the plate on that side, so I'll leave it, and I've went to Red Silicone on the engine side. I havent had the time to give it a go yet.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:23 PM   #150
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I use the PC Fahrenheit putty on my ys 56 and outrage pipe. It is miserable to work with, but so is RTV IMHO. I put a thin layer on the pipe side and clear the exhaust port with a small screwdriver. I then bolt the pipe on and cinch it down tight and clean off the excess that squished out. I then leave it like that and fly. The material is making a gasket, if you back the pipe off again it defeats the purpose.

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Old 12-28-2012, 12:38 AM   #151
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I use the PC Fahrenheit putty on my ys 56 and outrage pipe. It is miserable to work with, but so is RTV IMHO. I put a thin layer on the pipe side and clear the exhaust port with a small screwdriver. I then bolt the pipe on and cinch it down tight and clean off the excess that squished out. I then leave it like that and fly. The material is making a gasket, if you back the pipe off again it defeats the purpose.

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I had to almost pry the muffler from the engine when I pulled it though. The problem I'm having isnt so much getting it to seal; its "how do you apply it before it sets?"

That stuff bonds reallly well; the problem is; its sets up way too fast. I dabbed my fingers in water, and pressed it out nice and flat on a sheet of heavy paper. The water seemed to slow the process down a bit. I applied it as quickly as I could then sinched it down real tight like your saying, but I thought after I confirmed that it still leaked, that it was maybe because I went too tight and squashed it all out.

SO what method do you do to secure the screws? Do you use Red loctite and apply it right up front, or do you tighten after the engine gets to temp?
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:24 PM   #152
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I had to almost pry the muffler from the engine when I pulled it though. The problem I'm having isnt so much getting it to seal; its "how do you apply it before it sets?"

That stuff bonds reallly well; the problem is; its sets up way too fast. I dabbed my fingers in water, and pressed it out nice and flat on a sheet of heavy paper. The water seemed to slow the process down a bit. I applied it as quickly as I could then sinched it down real tight like your saying, but I thought after I confirmed that it still leaked, that it was maybe because I went too tight and squashed it all out.

SO what method do you do to secure the screws? Do you use Red loctite and apply it right up front, or do you tighten after the engine gets to temp?
Sorry for the slow response, I use blue loc-tite when I cinch down the first time. If you're getting a leak, then I'm not sure what to suggest. The material should fill in the gaps, I don't have any issues getting it applied and tightened down before it sets. I know it sets up quick, so I try to have everything layed out with the loc-tite applied before mixing up the putty.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:30 PM   #153
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Got a OS 50SX and when I give it throttle the engine will die if I don't ease it up. It's like it either drowns out or not getting enough fuel at first. It runs good after the rpms get up. Any body got any ideas?
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:42 PM   #154
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Low needle too rich? Without seeing/hearing it, hard to say. Go back to factory settings and start fresh.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:09 AM   #155
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After engine start up and while it is operating on low idle (NOT idle up) rpm's the engine tends to collect a bit of extra fuel on crankcase. When You open the throttle pretty fast, the extra fuel from crankcase will go to combustion chamber and coold down the plug / st down the engine.
On take off I usually 'pump' the revs up carefully from idle untill I can hear that engine collects revs nicely and then don't need to think about it untill next take off.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:25 AM   #156
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Thanks for the responses.

@ cory I've tried leaning the low end may be I didn't take it far enough.
@ pilot4fun yep, thats what I have to do too. Either pump it a little or bring up the throttle real slow. It only does it on my OS 50 SZ though. I have a OS 55 that it doesn't do it on.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:35 PM   #157
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Please don't continue w/o going back to factory settings. Too lean=buy new motor.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:33 PM   #158
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I tried tunning my os 55 hz-r. I never hard the engine go lean like on the video. so I moved the main needle to one turn out and I still did not get the motor to ping or brake up. so I went back out to 1 3/4 and the motor is making good power and running at around 200F right after some hard tic toc.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:06 AM   #159
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Regarding doubling the fuel tubing up at fittings to help prevent leaks... Is there a trick to doing this? Do you use a small peice or fold the line back over itself??
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Old 10-29-2013, 01:34 PM   #160
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Regarding doubling the fuel tubing up at fittings to help prevent leaks... Is there a trick to doing this? Do you use a small peice or fold the line back over itself??
Use a small piece. It helps to lube the fuel line so it slides over the other tube easier.

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