Broken Flybar Control rods...again and again

[memheli]

This past weekend I put half a dozen flights down. On my last flight I noticed a flutter on the disc, so I landed. It was getting dark, so I packed up and headed for the house. When I got home, I realized that my flybar control rods were broken, right at the balls where the links snap on. This is now the 3rd set of control rods I've had break...in the last 15 or so flights. Any idea what could be causing these breaks? I've attached a photo of the most recent set of broken control rods.

[RotaryBliss]

Too much cyclic pitch,or a combination of too much collective with the cyclic you desire, they are binding on the underside of the headblock/grips.. check the corners of the cyclic stick while rotating the head by hand at the full extremes of collective and you should see it hitting.. adjust your swash mix accordingly.

[saeed09]

Use align ones and add equal spacers in either sides. Slice trex 700 cannopy mount as spacers. Needs cutting and grindind.

Reducing cyclic would work but will affect your flyng so try to use different combinations of the top arms to get high cyclic at less travel from the bottom of the swash.

That head is basicall is not for fast 3d as i was told and they upgraded the small top arms on the blade grips to fix that issue. Fix in such a way that at low travell with no binding, you can achive high pitch cyclics.

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[memheli]

Originally Posted by RotaryBliss

Too much cyclic pitch,or a combination of too much collective with the cyclic you desire, they are binding on the underside of the headblock/grips.. check the corners of the cyclic stick while rotating the head by hand at the full extremes of collective and you should see it hitting.. adjust your swash mix accordingly.

ok, I see that now. I had way to much travel. Actually to get 8 degrees on cyclic, I had to move from the inntermost holes on the flybar cage arms to the middle ones with the flybar control rods.

Originally Posted by saeed09

Use align ones and add equal spacers in either sides. Slice trex 700 cannopy mount as spacers. Needs cutting and grindind.

Reducing cyclic would work but will affect your flyng so try to use different combinations of the top arms to get high cyclic at less travel from the bottom of the swash.

That head is basicall is not for fast 3d as i was told and they upgraded the small top arms on the blade grips to fix that issue. Fix in such a way that at low travell with no binding, you can achive high pitch cyclics.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

I'm not sure what you mean here, I'm not aware of different blade grip arms, but will check that out.

[saeed09]

Its not different blade grips, its a matter of mixing settings of the small arms located on the grips to give beginer to advanced. These arms were suposed to be upgraded. The upgrades should be reversed bent arms.

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