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Old 12-03-2012, 10:00 PM   #21
solex227
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yes you can, but it's not easy to get that center pin out. However, if you spun them by hand and didn't feel any notchiness, they should be good to go for another 100 flights before you need to check again. Don't forget to oil these on both sides from time to time.
+1

Freeskiken your heli looks as if its brand new .... how much stuff did you replace on it?
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:55 AM   #22
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Thanks, I guess I will leave the rollers for now.

I have replaced, three cyclic servos - Hyperion DS16 FMD, rebuilt BLS251, belt, main gear, pinion, pinion support, tail gear, tail shaft, tail case, swash plate, spindle shaft, dampers, bearings in head, new links - titanium turnbuckles, new ESC YGE90LV (stronger BEC 2-power wires), alum servo frames and alum lower bearing block with bearings, blades main and tail, some new canopies, new landing gear, tail fin, horizontal fin, now replacing tail and bearings. I cant think of anything else but it should be like new when I am done. Oh ya new Helicommand HC3SX, new receiver, scorpion backup guard, and batteries. I pretty we'll rebuilt the whole thing. This was a Heli the guy said was like new. Lol


I used the old frame, tail boom, rollers, and motor (after I put more heat shrink on the wires) . Hopefully the motor will be OK. Otherwise I have a new one and a whole bunch of new parts so I can rebuild it again.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:33 PM   #23
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I hope you get it cheap, a kit sounds more economical...
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:27 PM   #24
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I should have bought a new kit. I also replaced things because I want it perfect and because I wanted a better BEC for the Helicommand.

I have a lot of extra parts that I can use later or sell, Mini VBar, YGE60 Amp ESC, Jr Z3650 Servos (bought new gears I will rebuild them for spare) etc. Lots of extra mini parts.

I bought it for $700.00 shipped to Canada.

Oh we'll live and learn. (Maybe)
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:44 PM   #25
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Freeskiken
And I was sore over the main shaft and 3 bearings. But I think I still got a fair deal. So far I spent $17 on carbon fin set and $7on main shaft bearings. I have not found anything else yet..)
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:52 PM   #26
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Wow, what an ordeal for you, Freeskiken! The used Protos I bought was in perfect condition. I'm inclined to believe most owners love and respect their Proti and take great care of them, but I guess there are exceptions...
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:41 PM   #27
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Thanks. Glad you were luckier. Some of it was my own choice but defiantly not like new. It will fly great when I am done. Still think I may take the belt out again and check those rollers better.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:43 PM   #28
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Are you by chance on the west coast of Canada?
I just bought a second hand Protos recently. I think I'm pretty lucky with the condition mine came in after reading about this ordeal of yours. Especially at the price I paid...
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:18 AM   #29
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I am in Edmonton. Not quite the coast. lol
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:27 AM   #30
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Thanks. Glad you were luckier. Some of it was my own choice but defiantly not like new. It will fly great when I am done. Still think I may take the belt out again and check those rollers better.
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Are you by chance on the west coast of Canada?
I just bought a second hand Protos recently. I think I'm pretty lucky with the condition mine came in after reading about this ordeal of yours. Especially at the price I paid...
I think Freeskiken is the unlucky outlier here, and Karl and my experiences are more typical. Sorry, pal.
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:19 AM   #31
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Unfortunately Freeskiken is not alone with his experience. My used MiniP came in a sorry state, also had to replace a lot of parts due to wear but at least it was priced accordingly. Also it was carelessly bolted together. I wondered though how someone could neglect his Protos in such way.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:54 PM   #32
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Once you are done they fly great !! I have had to basically strip down and repair most Helis I have bought second hand. I think sometimes the previous owner buys it from someone and just flies it. Then they decide to sell it but they did not assemble it and now it is worn out. They think it is in OK condition but really have no idea. I am very particular about the condition of the Heli I fly. I have a Logo 500 SE to build after this one but it is new.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:45 PM   #33
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Once you are done they fly great !! I have had to basically strip down and repair most Helis I have bought second hand. I think sometimes the previous owner buys it from someone and just flies it. Then they decide to sell it but they did not assemble it and now it is worn out. They think it is in OK condition but really have no idea. I am very particular about the condition of the Heli I fly. I have a Logo 500 SE to build after this one but it is new.
Being New Logo 500 that would save you alot of headach and money for sure...


Green loctite what is special about the green ? I have the old Alu frames with the grub screw and it just so happen when I was inspecting the bearings on the main shaft I found 2 of them to be notchy. Well after reading another post about the alu frames and the grub screws causing the issue from being over tight. I figured I might want to approch the issue with locttie but didnt know the differeance between blue and green loctite was.... anyone care to explain?
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:49 AM   #34
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Blue locktight is used to lock and seal threads where normal disassembly is required.

Green locktight 290 to lock and seal threads, low viscosity disassembly not required due to capillary action. Localized heating required for disassembly.

Red locktight is heavy duty. Requires heat to disassemble.

All cure with the absence of air.

I just put the bearings in the aluminum servo frames with just the cap screws to hold them from falling out. I didn't lock them in.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:58 AM   #35
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Loctite 609 Bearing Mount (Green) Retaining Compound, 10ml
Loctite Bearing Mount 609 bonds cylindrical slip-fit or press-fit parts to prevent loosening. Excellent for keeping bearings in place in housings or on shafts. Bonds gaps up to 0.010" (0.25mm). Temperature limits -65F to 300F (-54C to 150C). 10 ml tube.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:40 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeskiken View Post
Blue locktight is used to lock and seal threads where normal disassembly is required.

Green locktight 290 to lock and seal threads, low viscosity disassembly not required due to capillary action. Localized heating required for disassembly.

Red locktight is heavy duty. Requires heat to disassemble.

All cure with the absence of air.

I just put the bearings in the aluminum servo frames with just the cap screws to hold them from falling out. I didn't lock them in.
Thanks for the info Freeskiken .. I just put down the heli I was rebuilding the air frame. I didn't bother with the loctite. I used the grub screws and didnt tighten it very tight and then used loctite to secure the grub screw in place. I also used the cap screws where needed. the bearing seem very smooth and notch free so Im happy
Now if only I could get my servos right... im new to the DX8 and im reversing servos to get the throw right.
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:25 PM   #37
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I have to look again but I couldn't see where the grub screws went in the alum. Servo frames. I just used the caps crews. Will the outside of the bearings spin in the frame ?
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:13 PM   #38
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I have to look again but I couldn't see where the grub screws went in the alum. Servo frames. I just used the caps crews. Will the outside of the bearings spin in the frame ?
This is a close up, in the middle of the photo is where the grub screw is located on the older alu frames the newer alu frames.. I read do not have a screw and should be green loctite in place. I just felt it would be better not to over tighten the grub screw and loctite it in. I also marked the bearing & frame to check if the bearing slips.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:30 PM   #39
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Thanks for the picture. I checked again. Mine came with grub screws in the package but no hole to put them in. Now I don't want to wick some green locktight in there and get it in the bearing.

What about the bottom alum bearing. There is nothing to hold it from turning.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:09 PM   #40
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Yeah getting green loctite in the bearing would be bad news.. the bottom bearing is held in place by the Main shaft. On my own (See Photo) bottom alu frame there is nothing preventing the bearing from slipping but to tell the truth I dont see any reason not to pop it out green loctite it in and be done with it. The bottom alu frame doesn't have a grub screw at all. The previous owner of my heli didn't use anything on that bearing from what I can tell and he had no issues that I know of. So you might be able to get way without anything at all. Anyone have an opinion on this?
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