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Warp 360 Compass Warp 360 Model Helicopter Discussion


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Old 12-20-2012, 05:29 PM   #21
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i've been wanting to put a white stripe on the bottom of the skids like that.

any tips for getting the blade grip bearings out?
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:47 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
Lets see if anyone notices a flaw in one of these pics. I have the replacement part coming.......
Pic 11/26 (where's Waldo), the blade grip on the left is missing a screw?
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:55 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by radu7 View Post
Pic 11/26 (where's Waldo), the blade grip on the left is missing a screw?
Yup... he had a bad screw in his kit. We're sending him a new one.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:02 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Barrett View Post
This is where that white canopy really excels ... it REALLY pops.

I like the arrow head shape you cut the peel'n'stick to on the bottom of the canopy ... I'd imagine that pops nicely!
+1 on that. I love it!

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Old 12-20-2012, 10:06 PM   #25
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Default ditch the stock blades

The only mod I needed was to ditch the stock blades. They'll give you nightmares trying to dial in the tail.
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:55 PM   #26
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No problems here. I went to the stock blades after Edge 353's and they give great response at 2700 & 2900 rpm which I'm flying at. Are you flying high headspeeds?
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:47 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Chris Nifty View Post
No problems here. I went to the stock blades after Edge 353's and they give great response at 2700 & 2900 rpm which I'm flying at. Are you flying high headspeeds?
How's the Warp compare to your other heli's, I find my Beam is better at lower hs and the Warp seems better above 2600-3000?
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:36 PM   #28
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Ok, well the Warp has come alive by 2900 rpm, but flying the same headspeeds on my stretch Minis, they (especially the lighter one with just an AR7200bx) are ballistic in comparison. I feel the Warp would be similar at the higher speeds some are running, but I like the smoothness mine has below 3000. The Warp is the most stable out of all of 'em.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:39 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by frito169 View Post
The only mod I needed was to ditch the stock blades. They'll give you nightmares trying to dial in the tail.
Oh crap! Were you talking about the tails? When I read about peeps needing very low gains, I went straight for the Edge 60's.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:47 PM   #30
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Default Same here!

If I fly my stretch Beam at 3000 hs it's an animal but I'm into smooth flights as I'm still learning the 3d stuff so with ballistic I just get into trouble quicker!I do like the cyclic/ swash for quick flips but I'm a little worried of smashing my Warp so got to be mellow till spares become common.Thanks for your comparison!
First mod I'm having Helihaven make is a dual slider arm&bracket and aluminum tail side plate for a press fit bearing and some shorter blade grips.My wish list.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:40 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevemech View Post
If I fly my stretch Beam at 3000 hs it's an animal but I'm into smooth flights as I'm still learning the 3d stuff so with ballistic I just get into trouble quicker!I do like the cyclic/ swash for quick flips but I'm a little worried of smashing my Warp so got to be mellow till spares become common.Thanks for your comparison!
First mod I'm having Helihaven make is a dual slider arm&bracket and aluminum tail side plate for a press fit bearing and some shorter blade grips.My wish list.
Steve
I have flown a couple of his fabbed tails. And have never seen a slider or assembly as tight and smooth as his. Simply brilliant machine work. I did alot of research on dual control tail sliders after I noticed tons of Skookum logs that showed single armed control sliders chattering just off neutral. And more guys showing servo stress and slider lean during transitions. Slider lean also offsets blade tracking since the slider/grip control arm also leans with it. In fact the amount of servo power it takes to move the slider is amplified by almost 4 between the two different versions. The Heimjoint china weight mod and others help cover this up.

Next single control arm sliders wear twice to three times as fast since all the pressure exerted on the slider bushing is forcing it off angle. And this always results in more tail slop rather quickly due to the inner wear of the slider.

Next we see what happens with the linkage. The single slider control bellcrank has to exert so much more pressure on the slider ball that it also leans more on its mounting bolt. The bolt itself flex's at the base and into the threads. Loctite doesn't help the metal fatigue as the threads flex at the base.

And we haven't even talked about slider chatter yet. Nor the fact the single slider control assembly violently pushes the tail shaft off angle! Which punishes the inner shaft support bearings.

So, like you, I am also installing a dual control arm slider mechanism on mine also. But hadn't talked to Helihaven about this. His last assembly was an incredible invention that fully used mechanical geometry to smooth out the tail control and develop an amazing dual control tail. And as fast as my MksDs95i servo was, it got twice as quick on his tail design. Should be interesting to see what he comes up with on yours!

(He is actually building me one right now for one of my 600s).

In the meanwhile. I will post up pics of the new Carbonfibre 16mm boom mod I am just finishing up. I would kill for a lathe right about now though.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:52 AM   #32
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Good point Lumvy!
This heli really needs a better tail.
It's the only aspect on this heli that was better on my 450 sport, the tail was next to perfect with gsun dual support slider(by no means with the finesse of a full bearing support) and with tarot tail grips with thrust bearings.
On the warp thrust bearings are not that necessary, because of the oversized bearings and the way they are installed on the tail grips, but that slider lacks some precision.
But putting more weight on the tail won't be good for the COG, will have to fly bigger packs to balance...decisions decisions
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:38 AM   #33
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Here is another one of my peace of mind mods. I noticed my tail lever kept getting slop after a few flights and when I would tighten too much would create binding. I could not use lock tight because it threaded into plastic so I just got a longer screw and put a nut on the other end.



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Old 12-22-2012, 10:17 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by ccnada View Post
Here is another one of my peace of mind mods. I noticed my tail lever kept getting slop after a few flights and when I would tighten too much would create binding. I could not use lock tight because it threaded into plastic so I just got a longer screw and put a nut on the other end.



Exactly one of my earlier points. They need to be anchored from the back to 'seat' the bolt so it doesn't wobble in the threads. Better yet. Find a flanged bolt without threads right up into the plate, this will tighten up the bearing slop around the bolt threads.
Nicely done!
Great pics!
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:28 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Luigi_tuga View Post
Good point Lumvy!
This heli really needs a better tail.
It's the only aspect on this heli that was better on my 450 sport, the tail was next to perfect with gsun dual support slider(by no means with the finesse of a full bearing support) and with tarot tail grips with thrust bearings.
On the warp thrust bearings are not that necessary, because of the oversized bearings and the way they are installed on the tail grips, but that slider lacks some precision.
But putting more weight on the tail won't be good for the COG, will have to fly bigger packs to balance...decisions decisions
For me, I actually am trying to run larger packs. It would be cool if I could sneak one of my 2250's that I ran on my earlier 6s stretched versions. The flight times were spectacular. I am adding even more weight back there since I have already sketched out a raised tail version of one of Helihaven's designs. But in carbonfibre. I already ordered in all the ceramic bearings and have Jeff B on notice for a couple tail belt tension rollers when they show up. It takes two of them back there to control the belt when it angles up into the raise.

NO right hand skid lean. NO tail blades tickling the grass or pavement ever.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:33 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
For me, I actually am trying to run larger packs. It would be cool if I could sneak one of my 2250's that I ran on my earlier 6s stretched versions. The flight times were spectacular. I am adding even more weight back there since I have already sketched out a raised tail version of one of Helihaven's designs. But in carbonfibre. I already ordered in all the ceramic bearings and have Jeff B on notice for a couple tail belt tension rollers when they show up. It takes two of them back there to control the belt when it angles up into the raise.

NO right hand skid lean. NO tail blades tickling the grass or pavement ever.
Hardcore modding for shure.
I'm shure that you will upgrade the gear ratio before stretching it, or that motor will run quite hot.
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Old 12-22-2012, 02:07 PM   #37
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What is the concern with the lean?
What kind of flying you do LMH, scale, just hover?
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:04 PM   #38
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What is the concern with the lean?
What kind of flying you do LMH, scale, just hover?
Lol, no. Just a perfectionist. Anyhoo, we may have nailed the gear issue this morning. On the cheap too. Will let you guys know the second I get it in my hands.

Plus, I am building mine to showcase a few things and perfect factory weak spots.

So, due to my nasty R.A. That, has pretty much screwed up my fingers they just don't obey me anymore, or quickly enough for precision 3d. So, smooth sportflying. Unless I have one of those rare days things work?

When I eliminated all the skid lean with my previous helis they actually behaved quite differently. Hard to describe. And HH talked me out of CF for my stretch tail frame this am. Seems he had issues with his earlier ones when using it due to the flanged bearings working loose. Plus he is machining down my Warp rear tail hub to take the carbonfibre boom's 15mm ID( instead of using my heavier design) for a Trex CF 500 boom. Which he talked me out of, due to his superior ideas. Hey, I admit it.
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:23 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by jrod155 View Post
i've been wanting to put a white stripe on the bottom of the skids like that.

any tips for getting the blade grip bearings out?
jrod, have a look here for a tip on getting the blade grip bearings out:

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....28#post4548828
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:58 PM   #40
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Ok, I have the stretch mod lined out. Plus I test fitted my electrical components for a rough layout of how this will all fit together.

I had thought I might need an Align CF 500 boom mod to make the stretch work out, but this fit so close I am going to try and make this work.

Just our Warp boom with one of my earlier Helihaven version 2 stretched raise tail systems for a 450 is in the pics. I sent the entire slider system out to him for further work. So is isn't pictured here.

I lined up the booms and bolt holes just to make sure I had a clearance between the 420mm MsComposite blade and the stock tail blades. Actually with the angle of the raised tail it will actually push it back farther, but all that can be changed anyways with the raised tail plate angle. So this mod will most certainly fit without to many other radical changes. Although I am uncertain of the guide hole plastic pins in the boom support casing, if they will actually hold the extra twist on the boom from the higher tail blade angle? So I am working on an idea to really lock the boom in place more securely.
Sorry this took so long, but Christmas was frenetic.

On the front tray is my full sized Western Robotics bec, Sk720, and inside the frame underneath it all is the Yep45 with a heat sink. I am still playing with the thought of changing out the WR with my Castle ProBec. Other than this, pretty much everything fits without any dramatic changes except shortening down and routing most the wiring inside the frame. Then using braided covering to make things clean looking where possible. I abhor rats nests, and outside mounted components. When other options are there to take advantage of with a little work. Keep in mind, this is just the mock up. Everything is going to be torn back down to 0 again. And every bolt will be used with those pretty little collars and in the case of the servos reversed so the nuts are on the backside. Plus, I just spent close to $200 in new abec 5 ceramics throughout the heli. And balanced the rotating assemblies.

Helihaven found a new 11 tooth pinion (plus 12,13,14 and on up) that may fit both the 3.17 motor shafts and the 4mm version also. So you will notice my mock up Scorp Dan @ GoBrusless.com's incredible hand wound 2221-2010 in place for now. I am winding another version for this heli with very thick gauged pure copper that Dan sells to get a lower 1600kv rating. It will be packed to the gills around the stators for sure.

The main gear has some slight wobble, pretty much what I expected using plastic. And the lower tail drive gear does have some offset that I can see causing small a belt stretch relax cyle. But nothing that concerns me beyond normal. I will rotate it a few times in its mounting to see if I can get it running more concentrically.

We need a new longer tail belt of coarse to make this happen. And again one of Helihavens incredible raised tail systems. But this one will be based on the Warp 360s own tail hub on the back. Also the stock Warp tail servo control arm should fit perfectly!
So not only will this give me a raised tail. But a dual control slider! Good stuff.
I included some of the mock up assembly. And don't forget to clean the threads out of the lower maingear hub or it will interfere with the mainshaft and make it difficult to mount over the mainshaft. I found out the hard way, notice the deep scratches on the mainshaft when I was balancing both the main gear and the head. I cleaned it out afterwords with a cheap dremel. And it took just a few seconds to clean it out on the inside to get rid of the extended threads. After this it installed with a perfect fit.

I do have a quick question guys? Since I am waiting on my final head grip bolt to show up before I finalize the actual head balancing. I can already see my grip that is missing the plate bolt on it is heavier on the pic with the Dubro. When the missing bolt shows up it will increase the out of balance issue. Where are you guys cutting out weight or adding it on the main head assembly?


Now, onto the skids for the next photos..
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