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600 PRO Class Electric Helicopters 600 PRO Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 01-02-2013, 10:05 PM   #21
Tpoh
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I am at the servo stage of my build. Elevator is next. Thanks for the pics.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:02 AM   #22
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I started my build earlier this evening. I took the head apart to grease the feathering shaft and thrust bearings. Putting it back together the grips are not smooth. I have taken it a part and triple checked that everything is in the right place. What am I missing or doing wrong?
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:25 AM   #23
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Just wanted to ask, with passing the elevator and rubber cables (and possibly satellite) under the front servos how did you keep them well away from the main gear?
Mine are very close, and over time might come in contact. Made even worse by the braiding.
They are only being held up by the cable tie adjacent to the motor mount.
I can't see any other way to keep all the wires inboard and avoid the main gear.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:02 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSFlyer12 View Post
I started my build earlier this evening. I took the head apart to grease the feathering shaft and thrust bearings. Putting it back together the grips are not smooth. I have taken it a part and triple checked that everything is in the right place. What am I missing or doing wrong?
Don't over tighten the spindle screws, it will put too much pressure on your thrust bearing and make the grips feel notchy. I personally tighten until right before that point and let the green lock tight do its job.

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Old 01-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayDee View Post
Just wanted to ask, with passing the elevator and rubber cables (and possibly satellite) under the front servos how did you keep them well away from the main gear?
Mine are very close, and over time might come in contact. Made even worse by the braiding.
They are only being held up by the cable tie adjacent to the motor mount.
I can't see any other way to keep all the wires inboard and avoid the main gear.
I use 3M grey outdoor mounting tape underneath the front servos. Another option is shoe goo.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:40 PM   #26
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I fishish mine New Year's Day but it was raining on and off all day so my maiden flight was short and sweet.
Yesterday I really open her up, did few loops and flips at first it felt like I was flying a bus but then I got use to it.
This heli flies well , me like
Next I will try some inverted
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayDee View Post
Just wanted to ask, with passing the elevator and rubber cables (and possibly satellite) under the front servos how did you keep them well away from the main gear?
Mine are very close, and over time might come in contact. Made even worse by the braiding.
They are only being held up by the cable tie adjacent to the motor mount.
I can't see any other way to keep all the wires inboard and avoid the main gear.

I ran two servo wires on each side of the frame to keep them from being too bunched up. I ran the right cyclic servo (aileron), Elevator and satellite wire down the right side, and I ran the Rudder and left cyclic servo (pitch) down the left. There is not a LOT of clearance between the gear and the wires, but enough for me to be comfortable with.

I pulled the wires nice and snug (they are supported by the zip ties, so I'm not pulling them out of the servos) and have the zip cinched down tight to keep them put. Here is a pic of how I have them routed and tied off (remember, only two servo wires per side, I just drew them together so you can see). The other side is pretty much identical. I also attached a pic of how much clearance I have between the main gear and servo wires.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:21 PM   #28
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That is pretty much the same route I took. I used mesh wire covers, zip ties and hot glue to help keep put. Good clearance but I had to split the wires up to get by the gear. Looks clean and wires are protected... Downside if I have to change servo I will have to rerun wires. Knocked on wood and fingers crossed.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:07 PM   #29
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Is the manual for this 600 telling me to install the thrust bearing with the open side of the bearing facing out? I'm having one of those moments I think.

Edit and I'm running into the same issue as nsflyer. Any amount of torque on the FS bolts, even just snug and the grips start to feel slightly notchy. Hmph.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:46 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Is the manual for this 600 telling me to install the thrust bearing with the open side of the bearing facing out? I'm having one of those moments I think.

Edit and I'm running into the same issue as nsflyer. Any amount of torque on the FS bolts, even just snug and the grips start to feel slightly notchy. Hmph.
The open face goes inwards. I ended up taking 1 - 2 mm off one of the dampers to help with the notchiness.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:07 AM   #31
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Default Re: Trex 600E Pro DFC build

I figured the open end should face in but the manual makes it appear to face out. Also, it was pre assembled with the open end facing out on both ends.

Oh and with trimming the dampeners, did you just use a razor to take some material off or did you do this some other way.

Thanks for the help.



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Old 01-26-2013, 09:44 AM   #32
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" I ended up taking 1 - 2 mm off one of the dampers to help with the notchiness"

I should be carefull with this, I only needed about 0.1mm not 1mm. I used very fine wet & dry paper and just took off a small amount...
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:12 PM   #33
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Just starting my 600 DFC build. Have a question. On page 6 of the instruction manual it shows a 700 DFC collar that goes between the elevator ball link and the 700 DFC linka rod(A). My kit did not have these collars, are they for the 700 DFC kit only or should I have had these in my kit?
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:31 PM   #34
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Hello
Yes you should have them in the kit, they are in bag number 60flh4 in my kit...
Regards Adrian
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:06 PM   #35
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Ok, I did find them. Now this maybe a stupid question , but what is there purpose? My guess is that after you adjust the ball link you slide this on to keep the link from moving. Sorry for hijacking this post any further questions I will start my own. Thanks
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:33 AM   #36
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" I ended up taking 1 - 2 mm off one of the dampers to help with the notchiness"

I should be carefull with this, I only needed about 0.1mm not 1mm. I used very fine wet & dry paper and just took off a small amount...
I took a small amount of material off of one dampener and the grip still becomes notchy if I apply any amount of torque to the bolts.

I am certain I have this head assembled correctly, I'm just having a hard time relying on just the thread lock to keep this massive thing together.

I hope the OP doesn't feel as if I am jacking his thread as my question does relate to the build of this model. If so, just PM me and I'll create a separate thread with my issue.

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Old 01-28-2013, 04:49 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by propxprt View Post
I took a small amount of material off of one dampener and the grip still becomes notchy if I apply any amount of torque to the bolts.

I am certain I have this head assembled correctly, I'm just having a hard time relying on just the thread lock to keep this massive thing together.

I hope the OP doesn't feel as if I am jacking his thread as my question does relate to the build of this model. If so, just PM me and I'll create a separate thread with my issue.

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Yeah I struggled with this as well and scratched and rebuilt mine many times. I brought it over to a friend who has a lot of experience building these. We took enough off one damper in that it was still a little notchy but ok.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:15 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propxprt View Post
I took a small amount of material off of one dampener and the grip still becomes notchy if I apply any amount of torque to the bolts.

I am certain I have this head assembled correctly, I'm just having a hard time relying on just the thread lock to keep this massive thing together.

I hope the OP doesn't feel as if I am jacking his thread as my question does relate to the build of this model. If so, just PM me and I'll create a separate thread with my issue.

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Post away man, I'm subscribed to this thread all the same and like to add input when I can
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:07 AM   #39
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I had a chance to talk to Colin Bell today on FB and I mentioned this issue to him.

Colin Bell

"I researched it and have read a few other people having the same issue. it appears as though they are making the dampers slightly too large/long... shaving them down until its smooth seems to be the fix. I have memtioned this to the factory"
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:40 PM   #40
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I've got another question. My tail linkage rod seems to be a bit to long leaving no way to set the neutral pitch on the tail. What are you guys doing about this?

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