4G3 tips

[empty_space]

I ordered a 4G3 last week and had it shipped down to my neighbor's house in Florida because I am leaving this Thursday to go to Florida for vacation for 10 days. While down there, I will have no computer access because we have no computer down there! I am searching the internet now for tips and anything else useful to me for the 4G3. Anything else I should know? I have the 2601 tx btw.

Most of it I got here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=959277

Lower the EXT on the 4 in1 and put some weight on the flybar

Dip10/Normal = V1/+100 (inner scale), V2/+30%
Dip10/3D = V1+100 (inner scale), V2/+30%

Dip11/Normal = V1/-100 (outer scale), V2/+30%
Dip11/3D = V1/-100 (outer scale, doesn't matter), V2/+30% (seems to give about +/-11 deg with proper mechanical setup)

Dip12/Normal = V1/70% (outer scale), V2/+15%
Dip12/3D = V1/70% (outer scale), V2/+15%

Mix = slightly higher than stock (the flat spot on mine is pointed directly at the - symbol)
Extent = significantly higher than stock (around +/-10deg of cyclic pitch, flat spot aimed at about the 11:30 clock position)

Mix and Extent will probably need to be tweaked on each heli because of other factors (servo horn positioning, linkage lengths, trim compensation, etc).
-kAI

DIP 11 V2/PLT Rotor mechanics setup

Before you do this, please make sure that at 3D midstick, the servo arms are roughly level/horizontal.

Procedure:
1) With TX off, switch TX to 3D mode
2) Adjust V1/V2 dials to 0
3) Set the throttle stick at MID/halfway point.
4) Turn on the TX (no, rotor wont spin when switched on)
5) Turn on the heli/RX (connect to battery)
6) Move your throttle stick upward & downward, see where it ends at dials to 0. The remaining space between the swashplate top & bottom must be the same amount when u crank it most upward and downward. If not, adjust ALL swashplate links at the same time. This will happen, if the swashplate is at the center of the movement range on the main shaft.
Keep in mind, the swashplate must be set to be perpendicular/square to the main shaft from 2 sides (front and lateral).
6) If you turn the dial CW/clockwise, the swashplate will rise & fall further, eventually hitting the top/rotorhead & bottom/collar. Make sure you don't turn it CW too much, so that the swashplate runs out of space before your throttle stick does. Note the max V2 dial setting when this happens. Do not go past this point. VERY IMPORTANT to check the movement range by sight!
7) Decide on your max V2/PLT dial, remember not to go past the max range dial (too much PLT will cause excessive torque, kicking the tail).
8) With throttle/pitch at midstick, the flybar must be in the dead center of the sliding hole in the rotorhead. If not, adjust the links that connect the flybar ball inside the rotorhead hole to the swashplate.
9) With throttle/pitch at midstick, make sure the blade pitch is level/horizontal/0degree. No need for pitch gauge. Eyeball will do. If not, adjust the links that connect the mixer arm ball to the swash plate (longest ones with hole).
10) Recap: servo arm at horz/0degree, throttle at midstick, flybar ball at dead center, blade at horz/0degree, swashplate at dead center range. Adjust pitch limit dialed to your preference of thrust/torque.
11) Turn off DIP 11. No need to tweak the heli rotor again.

Why I wrote this? I must've been the only idiot who snapped my swashplate due to not understanding how to setup the MFS head properly. To add to my misery, one of my flybar links is missing since it must've popped off during the extra stress from too much servo movement due to dialing the PLT/V2 too far. Other consequence would be stressing the servo motors/gears due to stopping it's range by force. The 4G3 will NOT be twitchy after you do this. It's so precise on its stock form, it puts my old HBFP to shame (and I got BL to crank up the rotorhead & stability on the FP) - especially considering its size. Once you get the rotor mechanics business properly setup, it will open a whole new potential for flying. Good luck!
-mprasm

Welcome to the group. The crazy Walkera dip switch method can be a pain but isnt too hard once you finally get your head around it.


The first version of the 4G3 seems to have no effect from any changes to dip 10 but Im not sure on the newer A version RX so Ill try and describe it anyway.

Turn dip switch 10 on. The V1 knob will (suposedly) increase the throttle curve as you increase it and vice versa.

The V2 knob is servo extent (supposedly as well) which increasing it gives you more expo (less servo movement at mid stick to calm the heli down) and negative does the opposite and makes the heli more sensitive to stick movements.

Turn off dip 10 to lock the settings in and write them down or if you flip the switch again by accident the settings go to whatever the knobs are!!!!

Dip 11: same proccess as above but,

V1 knob is your pitch or I call it hover pitch. This knob determines what stick position the heli will hover. Its best to set this with the heli powerd and the motor unplugged so you can see the blades move as you turn the dial or raise the throttle stick. I set my throttle stick to mid position (all CP helis have pitch adjusted based on a mid stick position as anything below mid stick or so is negative pitch) Then I move V1 until I have about 3-4 degress of pitch at that throttle point. This way I lift off just about mid stick

The V2 knob determines you pitch extent. In other words how far the pitch slider will go up and down. Its basically pitch end points. Turning it down will mean that you may take off at mid stick but there will be very little increase or decrease in pitch from there when you move the stick. Raising it high will mean you have a lot of positve and negative pitch travel and may slam the heli into the ground if you lower the stick too quickly or let it get away from you or bog the headspeed down with high stick so be careful. Once again you can adjust this setting with the heli powered and motor unplugged to see the travel you have dialed in. V2 will not change your first V1 hover pitch but just the travel end points.

Dip 12 is your gain and revo mix and is self explanatory in the manual but I have never had to change them so far.
Always write the settings down after each dip adjustment or all will be lost when you flip them on again
-xrateds

[Dusty1000]

So who wrote this? more than one person? - might be an idea to credit the OP's and I'm not sure about copying and pasting from one forum to another - just from an ethics point of view

There is some conflicting info in what you have copied:

''Lower the EXT on the 4 in1''

and

''Extent = significantly higher than stock''

If you are at the stage of just getting the hang of this heli or not quite there yet, then reducing the EXT on the 4 in 1 is what you would want to do

There is some excellent set up advice from Buildem in this thread here:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=116075

[empty_space]

I got this from another forum. I put down some names.
I know nothing about walkeras, the 4G3 will be my first, I am just trying to get from more info about it before I go down to Florida.

For what you said about conflicting info about the EXT, I am not sure. I thought one was on the tx and one was on the rx. I guess its how you set it up.

I'll check out the link you sent me now.

[Dusty1000]

Originally Posted by empty_space

For what you said about conflicting info about the EXT, I am not sure. I thought one was on the tx and one was on the rx. I guess its how you set it up.

Hi, EXT and Extent are the same, extent is what it is, EXT is what it says on the heli - and the adjustment is on the 4 in 1 - I am sure

Dusty

[empty_space]

Ok, thanks for clearing that up.

[clear4takeoff]

Well I wrote a post about how my cyclic response is too slow but then I read the part of the manual about "ext" on the receiver. I was looking at the dip switches but what I needed to adjust was actually on board the heli.

[helicraze]

does anyone know if know the DIP 10 throttle curve and exponential actually works? I want one but not if the expo and thr curve does not work.

It should be a radio thing not related to the receiver.

[mprasm]

Mine does. Some very early generation do not. If the set has V2 servos, they should work.

[Dusty1000]

Must be an early TX issue, my 4G3 is an early one and I've since replaced all the electronics - Dip 10 still doesn't work - I don't know what I'm missing

Dusty

[helicraze]

Thats what i think.

Any expo or curves etc is done through the radio not through the receiver, that is why the knobs are on the radio!

[Cdub]

empty_space, Tried the TX settings and head setup you posted on my Novus CP. It truly tamed the beast! I can now hover in my small indoor space. I've been looking for that info for quite some time. Can't wait to upgrade to the CNC head! Thanks a Lot!

[Ampdraw]

Originally Posted by Cdub

empty_space, Tried the TX settings and head setup you posted on my Novus CP. It truly tamed the beast! I can now hover in my small indoor space. I've been looking for that info for quite some time. Can't wait to upgrade to the CNC head! Thanks a Lot!

My preference is for the plastic head. The parts are more accurately made. The cnc head will bend slightly in a crash and the mixing arm screws don't have much thread to grab in the cnc grips. The metal mixers are pretty good..I went one step further and fitted Gaui cnc mixers.

Amp