I'd like to believe them, but...

[13kawasaki13]

There are tons of people now saying that you should solder the battery connector wires directly to the bl esc because it produces no bog that way and if like to believe them and I do think it worked on their nanos but with mine it doesn't big at all when the batteries are charged and it only starts to noticeably big about 2 minutes in wich leads me to think that it isn't the wires hindering my performance but my batteries, I really wish someone had a video displaying the difference in power compared to the wires solder to the stock board then the bl esc compared to the wires directly soldered to the bl esc

[mixfisto]

It seems some (would be interesting to know what percentage) nano's with the mild kit that use the battery leads stock (going to the 3n1) do fine without wiring to the esc. As I like to tinker, I went ahead and tried it and for sure saw/felt a difference.

Now IMHO, good batteries will make more of a difference in power/bog, then where the battery wires are connected. But, as I like to see how 'tuned' I can get any of my birds, I did the mod and me likey . In fact, I wasn't sold on it and had left the original battery wires on just in case I wanted to go back...after 2 battery packs, I chopped off the stock leads and haven't looked back.

It would be interesting if someone who's nano does not bog (or at least is flying great) tries the mod and can tell us if they feel any difference.

Its very possible that with Blade's uneven QC, that some leads/connectors are better soldered and put together than others.

All I know is that I now LOVE my mild BL nano and the stock nano is now demoted to parts bird

[toys2cars2toys]

Originally Posted by mixfisto

Its very possible that with Blade's uneven QC, that some leads/connectors are better soldered and put together than others.

This must be the key thing, EVERY forum for (stock) Blade micros has some comments about "short run times". "flashing blue lights", "stopped in mid air then started again" etc etc, that turns out to either be a bad battery connector or bad battery cable connection to the main board. Add a bit more current for brushless and we can see what is going to happen....

[Bladecpnitro]

Check where you originally soldered the esc to the board too. My red wire was not attached as well as I originally thought because I was in a hurry to get the kit installed and fly some before dark. After resoldering that alone I got 4 minutes of good strong flight with my #1 lipo where I was getting 3.5 minutes of strong flight. The black one as well looked like to tiny balls mashed together like a snowman instead of being one smooth seemless solder joint.

I did the battery connector to esc mod last night and can't wait to try it. I think I'm gonna need some new lipos to really see a big difference. All my lipos are not equally as good.

Put some oil on your main shaft where the swash slides.

The mild is not a power house though, its not going to take continous full collective stuff 1 after the other very long. Collective has to be used sparingly.

I will eventually upgrade to the 16,500 KV motor and longer boom though. I'd like more power myself. I'm looking for a micro 3D monster.

[SHYguy]

Anyone tried Micro Deans plugs on the Nano? Is it possible to use on the battery, or too big?

[Daryoon]

I actually switched out to using Losi/walkera style plugs. Because there's more surface area for the connectors and it had good gauge silicone wires already done.

Plus, I can use the same 250mah and 180mah Hyperion cells with the micro quads I also fly.

Besides offering more contact pin surface area, it's still relatively lightweight compared to microDeans. Which may just be overkill IMHO.

I also clean all new contact area with Deoxit. Because in the days of the Solo Pro, their LiPO has a large contact surface. And sometimes, they come from the factory with glue residue, oil or other impurities on the metal. Some people reported curing their flight time issues by simply cleaning the contact. So that tipped even worked it's way to the FAQ for that particular.

I figure it is a good best practice on all connection points. From my days of RC cars, I know those areas are where power is robbed.

[Smok1n]

*BLUF: I didn't see any improvement after moving leads drectly to the ESC.

I was having no bog issues with my mild connected using the stock battery leads, but I wan't hammering it like some of the more advanced pilots. All I can really do to stress the motor a little is some pitch pumps. No problems. I DID move to heavier wires with a new connector and went ahead with moving to the ESC. I suspected I had a bad connector, the main motor would occasionally just stop mid-flight. Jiggling the connector would fix it and back up she would go. The intermittent cutouts went away. Had to be the connector.

*BLUF=Bottom Line, Up Front. That's for the corporate types that only need the meat of the issue and don't have time for the details!

[Smok1n]

As a novice, all I have to say is WOW! Even the BL Mild is a handful for me. I've tamed it down enough in IU1 that it flies like stock, but when I hit IU2 with a 75% throttle curve it sounds like an angry hornet! Probably won't be using all that potential for quite a while. I can't even imagine what a Wild runs like! Love this thing, and as I improve my skills there will be plenty of head room for growth.

[Blackbriar]

After reading this thread I said I would not buy a nano because they were brushed, but when I seen this brush-less Mod for-sale I went for it. The guy who put it together is a electrical engineer, we talked over the phone, and I told him about using the heavier wire on the power lead coming from the board that the batteries connect too. So he had the wire and put it on before shipping, he tested it and said there was a big big difference, and joked he wanted to keep it now. It pulls more amps when needed and the light wire must restrict the flow and cause bogging. Here are some pic's before and after, as you can see all the wire's are the heavier grade. Which is pretty basic more powerful motors need thicker wire.

Before and After pictures and some pictures of what I bought. Also there is a pick comparing the two wires, I don't think it matter's where you solder it as long as you have the right grade that can handle the extra current. He soldered it to the board and said it was much more powerful even with the 150mah.

This is what I bought in the classified section.
Wild Brushless Kit installed - only flown a few times.
(7) eflite 150mah 25c
(4) Venom 150mah 25C
(2) Lectron Pro 300mah 35c
(5) 240mah 30C These are new and need the connectors installed
Aluminum blue swash
Spare stock tail boom (New only flew 2 times with it)
Currently it has a MCPX V2 tail boom and it is more stable with it.
Spare stock landing gear
Extra swash
Stck motor
Mcpx battery adapter
Extra links (new in package)
Stock ain bearings (I changed them out with astroid design bearings)
Extra brushless motor spacer
Mcpx battery connector w/leads
2 x 1s battery chargers with adapter wire for the other type batteries.

[Smok1n]

I saw that listing yesterday and was very tempted, NICE purchase!

[Blackbriar]

Thanks I can't wait to fly it. Now I can learn all the 3d moves that I was afraid to do on my 450. Should save me money by cutting down crashes on the 450.

[gdawgs56]

Great buy black briar. That's a heavy gauge wire for the signal wire !!