Flip your clutch

[rbort]

If you have a whiplash gasser I've found that running the clutch with the arrows pointing DOWN instead of up is the better way to go. This makes it bit nose in instead of tail in and the same way as my Spectra and 1005 gassers.

The zenoah clutch was designed to be used on rc cars and I expect that they put arrows on it to run tail in to make it bite less aggressively for car tires. Helicopter blades have alot more mass and will work better with the nose in setup.

Flipping the clutch will eliminate tail chatter when the engine in unloaded at rpms.

You may also want to change the location of the wave washers to make sure everything runs true. I've done a couple of videos on this in the gasser forum here.

Best regards,

-=>Raja.

[Rudy]

Originally Posted by rbort

If you have a whiplash gasser I've found that running the clutch with the arrows pointing DOWN instead of up is the better way to go. This makes it bit nose in instead of tail in and the same way as my Spectra and 1005 gassers.

The zenoah clutch was designed to be used on rc cars and I expect that they put arrows on it to run tail in to make it bite less aggressively for car tires. Helicopter blades have alot more mass and will work better with the nose in setup.

Flipping the clutch will eliminate tail chatter when the engine in unloaded at rpms.

You may also want to change the location of the wave washers to make sure everything runs true. I've done a couple of videos on this in the gasser forum here.

Best regards,

-=>Raja.

I have been fighting tail chatter or wawa's when the coming back through zero degrees. Could this be part of the problem?

I though it was a tuning problem

[rbort]

And also don't oil the sprag, too much oil can make the one way skip and slip plus seep into the bell area.

-=>Raja.

[Rudy]

Ok I will be dropping the engine today to check it out.

Just in case who stocks clutches for these, and are there different types/speeds?

One other thing on my 2nd tank (ever) I hot started the engine. The clutch bell got nice and hot melting the glue holding in the clutch liner and it slipped down so it was touching the side frames. I sent the clutch bell back to MA and they fixed that up. I did look at the clutch it self and it "looked" fine. Could I have toasted it then?

Thanks

[fastflyer20]

The clutch shoes are pretty robust, usually a degrease with solvent and a light scuff with some sandpaper and you are good to go.

I have started pinning the liners so it can never slip again.

Occasional wag and a bit of carb/ gov hunting when quickly unloading to 0 pitch is not uncommon on a gasser, the key is knowing what is normal and what is excessive.

[Rudy]

Well I pulled the engine tonight and found some oil/grease inside the clutch bell. I cleaned the inside of the clutch bell and wiped down the clutch bell.

[fastflyer20]

There are spacers in the bottom of the shoes, press them out, clean and install in the other side of the shoe when you flip the shoes over

[rbort]

Flange washers bolt shank "extenders"...Would be best if you replaced them with a shouldered bolt of the right size like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Sho...U30?Pid=search

-=>Raja.

[Rudy]

Originally Posted by fastflyer20

There are spacers in the bottom of the shoes, press them out, clean and install in the other side of the shoe when you flip the shoes over

Well thank you for pointing that out.

I need to look better

[Rudy]

Originally Posted by rbort

Flange washers bolt shank "extenders"...Would be best if you replaced them with a shouldered bolt of the right size like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Sho...U30?Pid=search

-=>Raja.

There is a grainger store right down the street from my hotel and they have these in stock.

[rbort]

Save me one if you can, I have an orphan here I could pair it with and thanks! You could leave it with Larry and I'll pay you for it.

-=>Raja.

[Rudy]

Originally Posted by rbort

Save me one if you can, I have an orphan here I could pair it with and thanks! You could leave it with Larry and I'll pay you for it.

-=>Raja.

Yep I picked up a 5 pack and will leave the odd man out with Larry next time I see him.

[fastflyer20]

Good idea Raja, I will order some in.

Just an FYI, Grainger is convenient, but in the last few years their prices have gone through the roof. McMaster sells these individually, in qty of 5 or greater for $1.18 each. In the past I used Grainger for home and work all the time, but not anymore.

[rbort]

But I was able to drive there about 45 minutes from my house and pick them up.

-=>Raja.

[Rudy]

One more quick question. If we remove the Flange washers, do you put some other washer under there?

If so do you know the size?

Thanks

[rbort]

Would be the washers that came with the engine clutch originally. Hanson USED to include them but I think he stopped thinking that are not necessary. You could call him for a set I'm sure to be put in an envelope for you.

-=>Raja.

[Rudy]

I found mine and every thing is back together. The clutch is a little tight when I spend the head. But will fire it up in the next day or so.

[rbort]

That you put the original washers first, then the one way adapter, then the wave washers, and then the screws. So wave washers on top of the adapter not below, ok?

This way the clutch should be able to spin without dragging the bell around when you pull the chord.

-=>Raja.

[Rudy]

I installed every thing like it said in the instructions, except I used the two washers instead of the flanger washers and I flipped the clutch over. I also used the new bolts.

So I put the wave washers between the clutch and the adaptor, They need to be on top?

[rbort]

So I put the wave washers between the clutch and the adapter, They need to be on top?

I put them on top because it will lower everything down so that the adapter won't touch the ceiling of the clutch bell. Washers on the bottom are higher than the flange washers that were there before. By putting the wave washers on top you end up with the same net end result in height.

-=>Raja.