It's that time of year

[jbeech]

Folks, it's that time of year. For those who didn't pull a maintenance session when they put their toys away for the winter, then it's time now to do what it takes to ensure your model is ready for another season. Specifically for your Pantera, the following are good ideas.

1. Remove the batteries, check the leads for chafing of the wires. If they're Nickle technology for the receiver, run a few cycles on them then write the date and results on the pack with a Sharpie. If in doubt, toss it and get another.

2. Switches have crashed more of my models than dumb thumbs. Me? A new switch each year is something I consider cheap insurance unless a model hasn't been flown much. But if it's my favorite warrior, it gets a new switch. Period.

3. Fuel lines need to be replaced. Yes, pain in the rear job but it must be done - especially the one inside the fuel tank. For this loosen a rear skid bolt to facilitate spreading the side frames to ease the fuel tank out of the model . . . grrr, pain in the rear! Do it anyway. Hmmm, it's probably time to refresh the fuel lines in the gallon jug too, the one inside with the pickup plus the ones to/from the fuel pump. Yes, it's a judgement call but fuel tubing is cheap. As for the fuel filters, clean or replace - duh!

4. Thrust bearings need maintenance. Disassemble and grease. While you're at it, feel the radial bearings by rotating the inner and outer races. Feel anything? Replace if you do because it's too far gone for lube. If you can feel nothing whatsoever, then you're good to go with a drop or three of lubrication. Many like Triflow.

5. Glow plug. How long has the one in the engine been soldiering on? Cheap insurance, especially if you don't remember when it was last changed. After all, you probably need to ensure you have some good used ones in the knick-knack box anyway.

6. Engine? Time for fresh after run oil down the carburetor throat and a good spin with the starter to distribute it well. Speaking of starting the engine, also check the set screw on the starter adapter is snug. And while you're at it, eyeball the electric starter to make certain the leads are corrosion free, the battery accepts a charge, etc. Air filter? Yup, it's time to clean and re-oil the media so it's ready for another few gallons of fuel.

7. Blades? Wipe them down and feel of their surfaces with your fingertips to ensure there's nothing, a split, crack, ding, etc. Only perfection counts.

8. Go over the machine with a critical eye. If it's a flybar model, eyeball the small screws the mechanism pivots on are snug.

9. Are you using foam tape to mount the gyro? Look at it with a critical eye because nothing will quite get your attention like the gyro tearing loose. Trust me.

10. How is the receiver secured to the model? Eyeball that too.

11. Tail boom. Check carefully the bottom of the boom where it enters the frames. Look for a small raised ring indicating a hard arrival that damaged it. Anything but perfection means replacing it.

What have I forgotten? Add to the list.

[Yooper42]

I usually remove the tail rotor and pitch assembly. Clean the output shaft, oil, then reassemble. Check condition of guide pins and sleeve for smooth operation as well as the tail rotor pushrod. In addition to good advise above.

[jbeech]

Really good idea to eyeball the condition of the plastic part of the pitch slider. Good one!

[MartyH]

On the list is glow plug change. I have always used the OS #8 in any of my heli engines. Anyone using anything else? I see new offerings from OS but not sure of their application or real world field experience.

[flyingquisinart]

Originally Posted by MartyH

On the list is glow plug change. I have always used the OS #8 in any of my heli engines. Anyone using anything else? I see new offerings from OS but not sure of their application or real world field experience.

Enya number 3 glow plug if you can find them. I think they last a little longer.

[JEEPWORLD2002]

I would look at the rubber items belts. Canopy grommets fuel tank surround rubber if applicable some times splits n the cf or glass can cut the tank or cause excess vibrations turning ur nitro to foam. Also keep eye out for the new ys 96 I assume the big block conversion will mount it to ur fav model

[helihammer]

Perhaps some scrutiny should be given to the main and tail shaft. It doesn't take all that much to bend one (or both) of these. I found this out last season when I tried to modify the RNFBL conversion to include linkage rods that went straight from the swash to the grips. Using the stock grips is not a good idea here because the blade grip arms are close to the feathering shaft. While this is desirable when used with a flybar, when used as described, this results in overly sensitive pitch control (and in my case, a quick introduction of Mr. Tail Rotor to Mother Earth).

If replacement of the main shaft (or main shaft bearings) is necessary, you will need to remove the collars on the main shaft. After doing this, you may want to take a dremel sanding drum to the shaft after removing the lower collar. The witness marks left by the set screws on the shaft can ruin the bearings when you try to forcibly remove them! The bearings can all be slid off the bottom of the shaft after the witness marks have been removed, then then upper collar can be removed. When replacing the collars, be sure to clean the set screws with acetone before reapplying threadlocker. Also, do not be overzealous while attempting to pull the main shaft up and out of the frame or you may break the swash anti-rotation pin.

Something else to consider may be the ball links. Since converting back to the original RNFBL design, the ball links near the rotor head have received plenty of attention while setting up the FBL controller and tracking the blades. Repeated removal and replacement of the links has caused them to become soft. While I'm not sure what condition necessitates replacement, personally, if I can remove them easily without pliers, that's too loose!

[Yooper42]

Have a look at your clutch shoes/liner. Mine let go in flight today......auto down with no damage but was quite a suprise when the motor started screaming with no warning. Not sure if its just liner or shoes too, ill tear it down tomorrow and have a look see......hope everybody has been gettin out flying!

[flyingquisinart]

Are you sure it wasn't a one way bearing?
We had beautiful flying weather here in MI, but my glow plug made an escape from the engine and took the threads with it. Aaarrgh! Auto'd down with no problem though.

[Yooper42]

good idea....ill have a look at it

[Yooper42]

For 2017.....

[Jermo]

Love it

[helihammer]

Here's what I do:
First off, oil all the bearings.

TAIL ROTOR:
1. Remove the tail rotor shaft
2. Inspect slide ring and guide pins for damage
3. Inspect belt, apply a little grease to belt and pulleys if necessary
4. Remove tail rotor grips and grease thrust bearings, add grease to center of tail hub so it gets thrown into bearings during flight
5. Check to see if tail case is cracked. Mine was, for a long time too! It probably would have been OK since I had been flying it like that, but $25 is certainly cheap insurance against a crash.
I kept breaking the skeltonized tail fin, so I bought the CF one.
6. Check the tail pushrod guide balls for excessive wear. Put a little grease on friction points.

MAIN ROTOR:
1. Grease thrust bearings (if possible), my radial bearings are CA'ed into the grips so I just apply more grease to the spindle shaft every so often.
2. Inspect dampers (no, not "dampeners") for wear.
3. Inspect bearings for notchy feel.

ELECTRONICS:
1. Check for proper operation of all servos. I caught a bad elevator servo last fall during a preflight! John sent me a new one because he's the best!
2. Check out wiring for wear
3. Make sure connectors are still fully seated into receiver/FBL etc.
Check motor to ESC connectors if using an "electron burner".
4. I have yet to replace my switch, but that may be a good idea

AIRFRAME:
1. Do a general tightness check on screws and bolts that are prone to vibration.
2. I like to put a little grease on the main and tail gears every so often.

Lucas Red-N-Tacky #2 has worked so far.

As I mentioned before, ball links are also a good thing to eyeball closely. I've never had one let go, but I have replaced some worn out ones.

Follow the yellow brick runway to Panteradise!