Go Engines GH56 gas helicopter engine

[kev20009]

Originally Posted by cruzroy

well guess no raptor gasser

found this,

Go engine GH56G gasser Helimotor Part 2 (5 min 18 sec)

kev

[kev20009]

Originally Posted by kev20009

found this, kev Go engine GH56G gasser Helimotor Part 2 - YouTube

Go engine GH56G gasser Helimotor (6 min 57 sec)

[kev20009]

Originally Posted by kev20009

found this, kev Go engine GH56G gasser Helimotor Part 2 - YouTube

Originally Posted by cruzroy

well guess no raptor gasser

looks like hes tuning it, kev

Go engine GH56G gasser Helimotor (6 min 57 sec)

[Sowa]

Originally Posted by cruzroy

well guess no raptor gasser

Looks like your going to have be the the forerunner in the raptor 30 front.

[SlezY83]

The video is from this thread.
http://www.rc-heli.de/board/showthre...239305&page=10

I found it some time ago and the user Sanyo66 is dealing there issue with the engine.
Use Google translator for translation from GE to EN.

But the Raptor is Raptor 50 and not Raptor 30, which is cruzroy looking for...

Roman

[kev20009]

Originally Posted by SlezY83

The video is from this thread.
http://www.rc-heli.de/board/showthre...239305&page=10

I found it some time ago and the user Sanyo66 is dealing there issue with the engine.
Use Google translator for translation from GE to EN.

But the Raptor is Raptor 50 and not Raptor 30, which is cruzroy looking for...

Roman

but the 50 and 30 identical, only the ratio and boom blades are different, I would think this engine would be better swinging 600 blades, with the 96/11th pinion

just my thoughts, kev

[jimmymc2286]

I took some pictures of my Raptor 30 with the gas engine today with my cell phone. Now I can't figure out how to get them from the phone to the computor. Will take some with my camera I know how to down load them. Sorry for the delay. I have been very busy working on our new house I am building.
A short update on my engine.
A few days ago I was flying it and the engine started leaning out. Landed without a problem but could not get it to run right. Would rev up but as soon as it lifted off the ground it would start to lean out again.
Removed the engine and took it apart to see what was going on. The inside of the engine looks great. What I found was a small piece of what looked like a piece of
plastic fuel line in the nipple the fuel line from the tank hooks to. It was blocking the fuel from getting into the carb, and was causing the lean condition. Cleaned it out and everthing is as it was. Runs fine again.

Cruzroy I will get your some pictures sooner or latter.

[conefree]

If you have tapatalk you can upload the pictures directly without going through the computer

[Hot Apple Pie Guy]

I use photobucket... Simple, easy, free.

[jimmymc2286]

I must be simple minded. I can't get my laptop to download the pictures from my camera either. Will get one of my grandkids to help me.

Anyway, I spent the afternoon flying my Raptor with the Go engine. It is now leaned out and running great. I ran a little over 2 and a half tanks through it. That is a long time flying. The engine has just under 2 gallons through it now and is doing well. I removed it from the heli and took a look inside. The inside looks new except for the ring. One can see it is seated in. I am glad I removed it. I didn't put a washer between the front bearing and the aluminum disk that has the magnet for the ignition. It had worn and there was endplay in the crank. I fixed that before it became an issue.
The engine takes a long breakin but it is worth the work. Mine has at least the power of an OS37, I think more. It burns very little fuel, is as smooth as my OS50s, It will idle all day long. Once I figured it out it is easy to tune. It runs off the low end jet well into the midrange. You need to adjust the low needle more than you do the high needle.
The North American distributor contacted Go Engines and got all the information he could about these engines.They said to break it in slow, use high octane gas and run 9 to 1 synthetic oil with 20% castor in that. I am using Klotz technoplate with 20% castor. It is doing well and smells great.
It sure would be nice to hear from others that are running a Go engine. There must be some out there.

[bjnginge]

If GO ENGINE would make this in a 90 size I would be all over it.
I have a pantera and a trex 600 that has been sitting on the shelf waiting for it. I was looking at the Gt from os but it blows up if you look at it for to long

I think for a 50 size heli a 90 size gas engine is needed, thus why with the os it needs frame mods, but the frame mods are out there now so please make a 90 size and you will sell heaps of them

[cruzroy]

looks like raptor and sounds nitro.....so i cant tell

[cruzroy]

some pics i found

[jimmymc2286]

cruzroy, nice pictures. I didn't get the black pipe just the standard one. Put another tank and a half through it today. I sure would like to try one in a 600 size. Maybe I will get another engine for my Xmas to me.
You know it does sound more like a nitro than a gasser. It may be the small size that makes it sound that way. I also revs a lot higher than my Zenoah, or my CY.

[SlezY83]

Hello guys.
Would somebody could measure a distance of a silicone seal, which is inside of the ignition plug to the edge? as is on attached pictures?

The reason is that when I put the spar plug in the ignition plug, I cannot turn about 1/4 in clockwise direction and today, it happened that the ignition plug was disconnected during a fly.

PLEASE, IF SOMEBODY CAN, MEASURE IT FOR ME (jimmymc2286, could you?)

My suspicion is that there is not enough place for putting the spark plug... See pictures

[jimmymc2286]

Originally Posted by SlezY83

Hello guys.
Would somebody could measure a distance of a silicone seal, which is inside of the ignition plug to the edge? as is on attached pictures?

The reason is that when I put the spar plug in the ignition plug, I cannot turn about 1/4 in clockwise direction and today, it happened that the ignition plug was disconnected during a fly.

PLEASE, IF SOMEBODY CAN, MEASURE IT FOR ME (jimmymc2286, could you?)

My suspicion is that there is not enough place for putting the spark plug... See pictures

I don't have my calipers hear to measure. But I can tell you the cap fits very tight. I could hardly get mine on. It also fell off while I was breaking it in. After you put it on and off a few times it will get better. The Rcexl ignitions are the same. very hard to put on the first few times but get better as they wear. I too thought there was something wrong, but they are made to fit very tight.
I will run up to the house in the morning and get the calipers and measure for you

[SlezY83]

Thank you, jimmymc2286!
I am almost not able to lock the ignition plug, when I have there a spring. When I removed it, I was veeery hardly able to lock it... I am wondering to remove the spring for a first hovers and then, we will see.

Anyway, have a question about temperature. See my temperature sensor placement.
When I hovered the temperature rise very quickly (it was first load of the engine with blades). But I am not sure how to play with temperature in gas engines. Well, my questions.

1) Is the temp sensor placed correctly (in the position, where the temperature should be measured)?
2) When the engine would be too hot, should I set the engine more lean or rich?

Roman

[Sowa]

Originally Posted by SlezY83

Thank you, jimmymc2286!
I am almost not able to lock the ignition plug, when I have there a spring. When I removed it, I was veeery hardly able to lock it... I am wondering to remove the spring for a first hovers and then, we will see.

Anyway, have a question about temperature. See my temperature sensor placement.
When I hovered the temperature rise very quickly (it was first load of the engine with blades). But I am not sure how to play with temperature in gas engines. Well, my questions.

1) Is the temp sensor placed correctly (in the position, where the temperature should be measured)?
2) When the engine would be too hot, should I set the engine more lean or rich?

Roman

Roman,

That location will most likely read pretty high. The closer you get to the spark plug the hotter the temps will be. Depending on what you think is hot, this may not be correlating to how the motor is actually tuned to how you think it is.

If the engine is running hot you would want to go richer.

The location to measure temperature on your telemetry system has been a hotly debated topic. The real answer is you can measure from wherever you want, but should look at other signs of tune besides temp when doing so. And use telemetry at the end of the tuning process to gauge how close the motor is to your optimal tune (related to the temperature you read) and/or to give a warning to a potential problem. I've had my temp sensor save a few of my engines from overheating due to other failures.

I came over from racing rc cars and would consistently measure from the same place. This seems to give a pretty accurate readout of what the engine is doing. It is also the same location given in the traxxas temp sensor manual. I mount my sensor on the crankcase, two ribs down from the top, opposite of the exhaust port. At operating temperature, it does read 40 degree's hotter (F) than my IR gun, so definitely double check what you are getting with another method of measuring.

[SlezY83]

Thank you for answer, mitsudriver274!

Here are some additional information...

The temperature sensor is broken - there dropped of one wire - I have to replace it with another wires, because the standard ones are too stiff. I repaired the temperature sensor 3 times when was placed on nitro engine...

Well, I have to say that the engine is still too hot.

My configuration:

• The engine has about 1,5 litter gas through.
• I use this oil: Liqui Moly RACING SCOOTER 2T SYNTH
• Gas/oil ration is about 15%. Recommended is 10% for normal fly, 30% for hard 3D.
• Needles setting:
• Mixture needle: 0,5 turn + cca 5 degrees
• High speed needle: 1 and 1/2 turn
• - this settings is according manual...
• Environmental: 10 degrees Celsius (good temperature for cooling of gasoline engine :-))

Go Engine GH56 - third fly (1 min 55 sec)

I flied about one minute and then landed, measure temperature, and again. I was able to fly about 11 minutes for 250ml of gas. But only hover...

See the temperature description in the picture and the video...

What would you recommend?
When the gas engine is more rich, it will be hotter, will not?
Or add oil and continue this way until the engine has e.g. 5 liters through?

Thanks for every advice,
Roman

[SlezY83]

Well, I tried to next flies, but the temperature is still too high (seems according to my previous posts).
This temperature is achieved after 40 - 50 second of hover and therefore I do not want to fly longer time to avoid damage of the engine.

@jimmymc2286, please if you can, what is your temperature on my mentioned places?
@jimmymc2286, if you could to tell me, what is your carburettor setting?
- I know that it could be different, but for my idea...

If anybody else have any expeirences, please share it here.

My settings is as before:

• Mixture needle: 0,5 turn + cca 5 degrees
• High speed needle: 1 and 1/2 turn

When I closed a little bit mixture needle, the transition between idle speed and load was too lazy. When I opened it (0,5 turn + cca 5 degrees) everything seems to be ok.
When I closed a little bit H speed needle, cca 1 an 1/8 turn, the engine didnt want to go to higher RPM.
- When I opened the needles more, there was no difference in temperature.
I tested:

• Mixture needle: 0,5 turn + cca 60 degrees
• High speed needle: 2 turns (4 half turns :-))

Lowest possible running configuration was about:

• Mixture needle: 0,5 turn - cca 15 degrees
• High speed needle: 1 1/4

From user manual from Walbro site:
http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm
I quote:
"
About 95% of all the gas airplanes I've seen at the field are somewhat out of tune. How can I tell this? Simple, at some point the engines "four cycle" in flight. Two Cycle engines are not supposed to "four cycle" PERIOD. This is caused by a rich mixture that is forcing the sparkplug to intermittantly miss making it sound like a four stroke. This is not good. HOWEVER the good news is; gasoline two stroke engines are very very tollerant of rich settings (most of the time) and will run fine. You'll just consume a little more gasoline than necessary, and create a little more oil mess on your plane.
"
- It is better to run it a little bit more rich than lean, therefore my settings a little bit rich, I hope...

I mixed 20% of Liqui Moly oil with Natural 95 (95 octane gasoline fuel) and the temperature is still too high...

The telemetry was telling me the high temperature as well. After 30 sec, there was about 150, I started landing and when I landed, it was about 160 (as is on the videos).

Any ideas how to decrease the temperature?