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Mikado Logo 800 Xxtreme Mikado Logo 800 Xxtreme Helicopters Discussion


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Old 05-09-2014, 12:29 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Ok. So 2 4s 5000 packs seem to be a wash. There is only a 7 dollor benifit to using to 4s packs to equal 1 8s pack. Oh and 6g in weight.

I thought I saw pulse 8s packs somewhere that we're much more reasonable in price thenTP but I can't seem to find them again. I've had good luck with pulse 5000 6s on my 550.
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:03 PM   #42 (permalink)
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@Mark17

Yes it should be a wash in terms of power when it comes from same manufacturer as the actual cells are the same just more stacked together. It makes sense that 2 x 4S packs would be cheaper as demand should be higher at this stage and also convenience of 1 x 8S pack will surely be charged for in this amazing hobby.

I really like Gens Ace packs as I have used 3 brands in the past and Gen's came out tops with performance and just general quality of build and ease of use when it comes to length of main and balance wires etc. I have to say that I don't see any 8S packs from them yet so you will be down to 4S1P from them.

I am not from the States so always compare USD prices converted to our ZAR and when I look at lipos for sale here in SA from our distributor....man it seems you guys would be getting them cheap with our exchange rate
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:23 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I use 8S Nano Techs on a Trex 600 that I modified from a 6S (older heli) and am happy with them. Got them from hobby king.com. Before I found those i was using a 6S and 2S wired together. I am so happy with my 14S 800 that I wouldn't consider the extra cost of batteries or or other stuff to have 16S Be very curious what the differences will be though.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:48 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Default Finally ordered

WOOOOOOHOOOOOOO

Finally ordered my Logo 800 combo and cant wait.

Man this has been a long time coming and the feeling is incredible!!!!

On a side note I want to mention that Mikado USA got my shipping quote wrong and after I have paid they notified me that they made a mistake which is of course very disappointing BUT and a huge BUT.......in a few minutes it feels like they jumped through hoops to resolve it and I have to commend them on their efforts.

It was and is a great pleasure dealing with them and their responses are almost immediate throughout the whole process.

Thanks Mikado USA and especially Bryan who dealt with me from beginning to end. You have made this a very pleasurable experience and I will definitely recommend Mikado USA's services to anyone!!!

GO MIKADO
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:17 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Congratulations Chippie! The 800 extreme is a pure joy to own and fly. I don't know what you did for the Esc, assuming you got the YGE. I switched to the Kontronix because my YGE mount tabs broke in a crash. I think with some thought you could beef up the way the YGE mounts. Those plastic legs are really terrible. If I was to build one now with the YGE I'd use a carbon plate and spacers similar to the way I put the Kontronix in. You'll be glad you took the time now. There's a thread that shows my Kontronix set up and some others, and those ideas should also work well with the YGE. Again, congrats and enjoy.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:47 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I agree on the tabs , broke mine on a crash also.

After a interesting repair process ( Mikado and YGE moved locations ) I ended up with a better mounting system.

https://www.helifreak.com/attachment...1&d=1391054258

Another good tip for the yge is to put some hotglue under the shrink wrap where the servo leads exit.
Have a close look as the setup , the daughter board pins stick thru the lower board , then the servo leads are put on top of that and shrink wrapped.
With some minor vibrations over a bunch of flights one of the pins can work it's way thru the wire insulation and short out esc. This is terminal for esc ( ask me how I know )

German engineering can be unique , like plastic parts on the cooling system of a BMW.


With a little tinker time I will say the YGE just plain works and works well. This coming from a kontronics fan.

Martin
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:42 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Hi @guyguerra\@rcmarty

Thanks I am so looking forward to the arrival of it.

Yes I got the standard combo with YGE and Scorpion motor as the Pyro combo is just that tad bit too expensive for me taking our currency conversion into account.

I will definitely have a look at the YGE mounting and the pins possibly causing a short as the last thing I want to see is it shorting in the air as my auto skills are probably not up to the task seeing as currently I only have a TRex 450 pro and that hits the ground anyways.

Cheers and soon I will be able to post pics of the build here!!!
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:45 AM   #48 (permalink)
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That would work but would be a PAIN to charge. Just series two sets of 4s packs (for 8s) then use a series connector at the ESC. That way you charge (2) 8s packs instead of one 16s pack…..
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:12 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Default Build part 1

Hi Guys

I have received my Logo 800 last week Friday and have been very busy with my build.

Admittedly I am building slow at this stage as I am taking my time because I still have not bought the main batteries....finances is a bastard.....so really putting in effort especially with my wiring.

I am starting to post videos about my build and have completed the first 2 and busy doing the 3rd video about the tail after which I only have the swash and head left to complete which will make up the 4th video.

Hopefully the videos will help anyone else who is starting the build soon.

Part 1 is uploading as I type so I will attach the link to YouTube when it is done.

Cheers for now
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:12 AM   #50 (permalink)
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First video uploaded

" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>
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Old 07-19-2014, 05:14 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Hi Chippy, congrats on starting the build. My only complaint ever about my 800 is the frame strength. If you have any kind of crash the frame will break. At the very least for me it has always broken at the connection to the skids. Its a weak area and theres a lot of torque on the frame if the skids hit sideways. When the frame breaks, and you probably noticed this if you pulled the frame completely apart, it goes back together like a house of cards so to speak. It's kind of a pain to put the frame back together. I'd be afraid of hiding the electronics inside because as all helis do, eventually it will crash for whatever reason. I believe it'd be a lot harder to put back together if you also have to deal with components between the frame pieces. There are a lot of good spaces outside the frame that are perfect and from what I can see of your attention to detail, would still look VERY nice. Just my experience. Looking forward to your future vids. Those servo leads look great BTW.
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:05 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chippie13 View Post
Hi Guys

I have received my Logo 800 last week Friday and have been very busy with my build.

Admittedly I am building slow at this stage as I am taking my time because I still have not bought the main batteries....finances is a bastard.....so really putting in effort especially with my wiring.

I am starting to post videos about my build and have completed the first 2 and busy doing the 3rd video about the tail after which I only have the swash and head left to complete which will make up the 4th video.

Hopefully the videos will help anyone else who is starting the build soon.

Part 1 is uploading as I type so I will attach the link to YouTube when it is done.

Cheers for now
Be careful when routing wires over the frame edges....I order extra "edge guard" for this purpose to prevent the frame from sawing through the wires from vibrations.

Lookin' good....
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:25 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Hi @guyguerra

You are right the frame is a bastard to put together once all the bolts are loose. I also realize that when I do have to replace one of the frames it might be more difficult due to my wire placement BUT hopefully it will be the exception and not the norm replacing the frames

Busy uploading part 2 and have to say that I am extremely happy with the way it turned out.

I did run into some small problems with the build but the guys at Mikado have been amazing in assisting me.

@EEngineer

Thanks I have cut servo wires on a previous heli so understand the risk and that's why I used braided sleeving.

For interest sake have anyone ever had the frame cut though braided sleeving?

Thanks again for everyone's input
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:32 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Hi part 2 has been uploaded.

" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>

Cheers
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:50 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Chippie, your wiring looks excellent! Nice job on the everything you've done. One thing you should consider is to rotate one of your Spektrum satellites 90 degrees. This ensures that the antenea polarization will catch different RF fields. Heres a link to a video that Spektrum has out, and I believe they mention it there. It's also in the manual for the AR9110, which is where I first read about this. I did have reception problems with mine, but it was a Demon FBL instead of the V Bar. I researched the problem and found out about the 90 degree difference between sat antenna angles. I ended up using a Spektrum 9110 receiver and 3 sats. I have tested this setup with a Data Logger and it is perfect. As I said, you shouldn't run into that with the V bar, from my experience. Theres quite a bit of documentation with Demons having satellite problems when plugged directly into the FBL unit, and this large frame makes it worse. They are also supposed to be 3" or more away from each other.

Heres the video link: https://www.spektrumrc.com/Articles/...ArticleID=2313 .

Heres the instructions from a Spektrum AR9110 Manual:

For optimum RF link performance it’s important that the antennas be mounted
in an orientation that allows for the best possible signal reception when the
aircraft is in all possible attitudes and positions. This is known as antenna
polarization. The antennas should be oriented perpendicular to each other;

typically vertical and horizontal and at different angles (see Receiver Installation
below). The remote receiver antenna should be mounted in a position
perpendicular at least 2 inches away from the main receiver’s antenna
using double-sided foam tape.

Looking good!
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:24 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I have had two crashes on my 800. The first one was almost a rekit. It was at the end of the flying season so I took my time on the rebuild. The second one was really just the boom stuff and main blades...cheap crash. I will never forget the first spool up with mine...and neither will you
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:28 AM   #57 (permalink)
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And so part 3 is uploaded.

" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>

Please excuse the bite mark on the finger, the logo and myself had a bit of a moment and she bit me.

No hard feelings though
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:35 AM   #58 (permalink)
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@guyguerra

Thanks for the link to the Spektrum installation instructions.

I was trying to figure out a way to mount them 90 degrees to each other and could not come up with a way and now after watching the video I will be moving them further apart and mounting them in a X formation(tilt them 45 degrees) against the frame so that they are 90 degrees to each other but not horizontal and vertical.

For some stupid reason I though they had to be either horizontal or vertical probably assumed the same way the gyro sensor has to be but as they say assumption is the mother of all mishaps

Cheers
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:54 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chippie13 View Post
Hi part 2 has been uploaded.



Cheers
That the remote satellite RX has a "main" antenna element, is completely false.

Each antenna element is equally active, as they have to be, for an H-Stub dipole antenna system to work correctly on the CYFR69103 radio IC.

So it doesn't matter which dipole antenna element hangs over the frame edge.the

But, as was mentioned, the 2 sat. RXs should have their antenna elements othogonal to each other.

Also, with regards to your ESC, I didn't use the adapter harness for 14S in order to minimize contact resistances by eliminatiing the extra EC5 connectors when using the harness.

I also used an extra tail pushrod guide, to keep it from flapping from vibration harmonics.

FWIW
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:04 PM   #60 (permalink)
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The manual calls for 5 min epoxy only on the tail control rod ends. Does that make anyone else nervous? The torque tube ends get epoxy too but they also have a bolt through them.

I was thinking I'd run a bead of CA around the back seam just for good measure. Or should I just use more epoxy around it?
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