DIY guide request

[CF_Machete]

ok, this may sound dumb, so feel free to call me out on it, but could some one post a how to video for DIY blades? I've been through the read through's and think i have it down, but a video woud be awesome.

[SlowWhite]

I could post an after video. and just talk a step by step / piece by piece if that would work for you?

[CF_Machete]

Originally Posted by SlowWhite

I could post an after video. and just talk a step by step / piece by piece if that would work for you?

that would be pretty cool. I just got a rave 450 and it looks like il have to make some 350 night blades as no one make them ...to my knowledge.

[seanmil666]

An after video would be awesome.

[flyinfool]

The SWARM Heli club is going to be having a heli night some time in the near future, where the main topic will be constructing night blades.
I'll see if anyone has a digital video camera and an idea on how to use it.

All I have for digital capability is a cheap web cam with lousy picture quality and no closeup capability.

I have an older high end video camera that uses HI-8 tape but I have no way to convert that into a digital format for posting. I have a few tapes of things that I have filmed over the years, that I would love to convert to digital.

[The Dude II]

Sounds like a good holiday project...and I need to build another set of blades for a more advanced battery/controller for IRCHA 2010 anyway.

[daisydog]

I too would love a video. Some times trying reading it and do it is a lot harder than watching a video.

I can't wait to see the video, then I'll try and make my own.

[thenewguy]

Alpha_&_Omega

Here is a teaser for you. https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...&postcount=213

Rave 450 night blades.

[CF_Machete]

nice, can't wait for a vid

[povern]

Originally Posted by Alpha_&_Omega

that would be pretty cool. I just got a rave 450 and it looks like il have to make some 350 night blades as no one make them ...to my knowledge.

Found this guy "thenewguy"on the otherr site, he will make night blades for you out of any blades that you have....

Just PM him for prices.

povern

[The Dude II]

Series nearly complete as of 3-16-10 - 1 or 2 more videos to edit/up-load.

Long-A$$ project this is!

List of parts:
Digi-Key at www.digikey.com


part # make-up color lens package size
leds:
350-2046-6-ND INGAN BLU WATER CLR 0805 SMD

350-2047-6-ND ALINGAP RED CLEAR 1206 SMD

350-2045-1-ND INGAN GRN CLEAR 0805 SMD

Resistor
P40.2CCT-ND 40.2 OHM 1/8W 1% 0805 SMD


3-pin socket
A26245-ND CONN IC SOCKET 3POS SIP TIN


On/Off Switch - Radio Shack
Catalog #: 275-007 6VDC 0.3A DPDT Slide Switch

Battery
80-mah single cell lipo
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A2416227&pid=W561531


Copper Tape
4516 Copper foil tape http://www.glasscrafters.biz/CTGY/foil

2-Part Automotive Clear
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pr...?product=FC710

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pr...?product=FH612



Tools & Supplies Video:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gJSmIS124A[/ame]

Components Video:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yJI1ZQMxVw[/ame]

Blue Tape, LED Soldering & SIP/Switch prep:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyf4uaIK7f4[/ame]
(sorry video is rotated 90-degrees - only way to get work surface in frame & be able to solder)
Note: The "Booger Technique" - you'll see in the video where I roll around the soldered LED & resistor - this is a simple "mechanical stress test" of the junction between the the two components.

Introducing the blades, weigh-in, insulating the exposed CF to keep battery from draining too quickly, surface prep, where to place the copper traces and more blue tape:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1b0po1G4NCw[/ame]

Attaching the copper foil tape:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yBJSEPMJfo[/ame]

Marking LED placement on copper foil:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P47ULvuN340[/ame]

Adding the LEDs and copper traces over the LE:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEGmvcYM4U0[/ame]

Another continuity check, Battery placement, switch & charge port wiring:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WuM7vSSvNY[/ame]

P.S. - Thanks Jeff...

One thing that I noticed that you did do but did not mention is to wire the switch so that moving the switch to the outside turns them on. This way centripetal force will keep the switch in the on position.

Final Video- Weights checked, CG's are VERY CLOSE, measuring clear-coat, recap & charge leads:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO9Td6x-xsg[/ame]


See the finished product (blades from 2009)in-flight:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqisgAt1bVY[/ame]



Maybe I'll edit the video for this below...kinda like explaining brain-surgery: I'm also going to show how the 'environment' of the blade helps us to "cheat" an LED with lower light output and drive it a bit harder than normally allowed. (observe your surroundings and take advantage & quite possibly why some have had limited success without employing resistors!)

Red LED temps relative to others because of the "cheat":
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6btztKgA4QE[/ame]

Why Resistors???

• Limits the Current
  • Protects the LED

• Protects other Branches of the Parallel Circuit

• Protects the Li-Po Battery

• Places the LED at optimum operating Voltage & Current

• Extends the “run-time” of the design.

If no resistors!!!

• LEDs will run SUPER BRIGHT
  • and burn out (excessive heat)
  • hopefully an “open circuit” will occur
• Extremely short run times on battery pack (relative)

• Continuous LED replacement

• Could fail the LED in a “dead short”
  • loss of all LEDs on that blade
  • possibly damage the Li-Po or FIRE!
  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ohms Law

Voltage (V) = Current (I) x Resistance (R)


or

V= I x R


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Voltage Division across a Series circuit
Vtotal = V1 + V2 + Vn...


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Vtotal = Single Cell Li-po Voltage Source


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Vtotal= Vled + Vresistor




4.2V= 3.2 + Vresisitor


Vresistor = 1.0V


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Iled= Current = 0.020Amp aka 20mA


V= I x R
R= 50-ohm
Power


Watts = Voltage x Current
0.02Watts = 1V x 0.020A


Smallest Wattage on 0805SMD resistor = 1/10W =0.1



Night Blade Circuit is 4 Series-Circuits in Parallel with a battery & switch.

NOTE THAT ABOVE a 50-ohm resistor was calculated but a 40.2-ohm value was purchased. Why?
4.2VDC is the fully charged state of the battery - the moment the blades are "on" the voltage will be dropping. Majority percentage of the discharge will be in the 3.8 to 3.4 VDC range.
Take 3.8V - 3.2V / 40.2 = ~ 15mA.

Next version may have an AMtel chip driving the LEDs directly - then no resistors and an RF link to the x-mitter!!!

[flyinfool]

Nice start on the vids.

[The Dude II]

Added Components Video - just uploaded at 5:55PM EST - still processing.

[CF_Machete]

THANK YOU!

[The Dude II]

Working on a Power-Point presentation for calculating resistors, LED selection and other points to consider before constructing.

Hope this cold leaves my head...sound more like Barry White today than I'd like to...except my lines are all about helis &$hit...so the wife is less than impressed.

[nexgen]

Thanks for teh info and the vids. I am comfortable with the other aspects of the project, save for one. would also like to see a vid of how to go about soldering the LED's to the tape without melting the led.

[The Dude II]

would also like to see a vid of how to go about soldering the LED's to the tape without melting the led.

Absolutely. This is probably the most critical - you might fall out of your chair when you see how simple - there can not be any "gaps" between LED/Resistor & the copper tape - solder will not "bridge".

[The Dude II]

Head cold is gone but business has finally come out of the "winter slump" (this is GOOD) so my time is getting short.

Fortunately, a friend of a friend has asked me to build a set of blades for him...so - when his blades arrive, I'll shoot the remainder of the build-series.

So, coming yet -

• Power Point on the "engineering" behind LED selection, current & power calculations.
• Bench Prep & soldering technique used to "mate" the LED & resistors prior to placement on the blades
• Blade prep (blade measurements, sanding & clear along leading edge)
• Blade lay-up (copper tape, LED/resistor mounting, battery, switch, charge port & wiring)
• Soldering & testing
• Measurement part II and CG/weight corrections
• Final Clear
• Making a set of charge leads

[nexgen]

[The Dude II]

Shooting the final videos this AM.

Look for more videos this weekend.

I will edit/insert the original lengthy post on page #2 with the added content.