What's that noise?

[A VIKING]

My warp has been flying a long time now without any issues.
A couple day's ago I started to hear an odd sounding noise on throttle up. Up to this point in time it was quiet as a church mouse.
On my build I noticed that the left hand tail belt tension pulley was contacting the carbon fiber frame slot that it protruded through ever so slightly. It was so little contact I just didn't worry about it.
As it turned out, it took time, but that contact although not changing or worse than it had been had started to make noise at high RPM. Not a squeal but a low rumbling sound that completely through me off as to what it may be.
After removing the idler assembly, and widening the slot for the pulley to provide proper clearance the noise vanished and it's back to being a church mouse, even at idle up.
I did get the chance to inspect the idler assembly during the tear down which was a positive thing and found no issues with it.

Back to the flight line.
Viking

[Rahulgaba]

yep happened to mine too.. took the white lettering off my belt.. .. and yes just sanding those slots where those rollers sit.. does the trick

[Mr-Mike]

So that's the lower opening in the frame?

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by Mr-Mike

So that's the lower opening in the frame?

Yes.

I didn't want to sand the already thin part of the frame above the tail pulley, so I added a thin washer to shim the pulleys downward, this way I could sand the lower part of the frame instead.

If you sand the thin part, don't take off too much.

ADDED:

The yellow arrow points to where I put the thin washer (one for each pulley), and you can see the clearance it provided. The red arrow points to the lower part of the opening where I sanded the frame for pulley clearance.

[Mr-Mike]

Great.

I think finally get it. Obviously follow the instructions, it conveys the design 'plan'. Also, look at the big picture abd don't get holed-up because of the instructions. Use common sense and take initiatives to achieve the results. Work toward ensuring alignment, low resistance, strength and integrity of parts, assemblies and connections. Don't rely solely on the instructions (which as a new builder, is exactly what I have been doing).

[Rahulgaba]

thats with any company any biuld brother. You follow the instructions YES.. but you also use a bit of your builder instinct to improvise and overcome.

Not one heli listed below.. or (7 others I have built flown and sold) went together all just perfect.

carbon fibre is a fibre material.. imperfections can be in the material ..
Compass does make sure that they come out as close to perfect as possible but there are always tolerances.

[BaconRaygun]

Originally Posted by Bob O

Yes.

I didn't want to sand the already thin part of the frame above the tail pulley, so I added a thin washer to shim the pulleys downward, this way I could sand the lower part of the frame instead.

If you sand the thin part, don't take off too much.

ADDED:

The yellow arrow points to where I put the thin washer (one for each pulley), and you can see the clearance it provided. The red arrow points to the lower part of the opening where I sanded the frame for pulley clearance.

Right on Bob.

I didn't even need to sand anything, I used a .2mm washer and got it perfect. The tolerances are so fine in this part of the heli that everybody's experience may vary slightly. Where just a washer worked for me, sanding may be required for the next guy. Great advice though, its much better to sand that portion of the frame as opposed to the thin area.

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by BaconRaygun

Right on Bob.

I didn't even need to sand anything, I used a .2mm washer and got it perfect. The tolerances are so fine in this part of the heli that everybody's experience may vary slightly. Where just a washer worked for me, sanding may be required for the next guy. Great advice though, its much better to sand that portion of the frame as opposed to the thin area.

Well said.

[A VIKING]

Originally Posted by Bob O

Yes.

I didn't want to sand the already thin part of the frame above the tail pulley, so I added a thin washer to shim the pulleys downward, this way I could sand the lower part of the frame instead.

If you sand the thin part, don't take off too much.

ADDED:

The yellow arrow points to where I put the thin washer (one for each pulley), and you can see the clearance it provided. The red arrow points to the lower part of the opening where I sanded the frame for pulley clearance.

For me and my high speed soft rumbling noise I had to pass my diamond flat file in the area of the red arrow a few strokes to get the proper clearance.
Thanks Bob O for the photo!
And as for my "quite as a church mouse" comment earlier, that of course is in a stationary hover." Rock and Roll" and the blades tell their story.
On another note...another important mile stone for my flying ability last night. My wife who up to this point would never watch me fly for more than a few seconds because it made her very nervous sat on the patio and watched me fly several full flights with the Warp last night.

Viking

[Diviner]

The pulley spacing is the trickiest part of the build. I also have added a shim and done a little filing.

I would also add washers for the 8 - 2mm screws holding the pulley and motor mounts, and heck while your at it, the tail assembly carbon plates. Too much pressure and the carbon will give way without a washer to distribute the load..

[A VIKING]

Originally Posted by Diviner

The pulley spacing is the trickiest part of the build. I also have added a shim and done a little filing.

I would also add washers for the 8 - 2mm screws holding the pulley and motor mounts, and heck while your at it, the tail assembly carbon plates. Too much pressure and the carbon will give way without a washer to distribute the load..

+1 on the addition of the washers, it's a good practice.

Viking

[acidla]

Originally Posted by BaconRaygun

Right on Bob.

I didn't even need to sand anything, I used a .2mm washer and got it perfect. The tolerances are so fine in this part of the heli that everybody's experience may vary slightly. Where just a washer worked for me, sanding may be required for the next guy. Great advice though, its much better to sand that portion of the frame as opposed to the thin area.

This washer would be good to use?
http://helidirect.com/compass-washer...60-p-29210.hdx

[Mr-Mike]

NEVERMIND - I went with the same

<disregard>
I went for the smaller inside diameter - not sayin that is the right choice though

Compass Washer 3.2x5.2x0.2 - Warp 360 (82-3502)

[acidla]

Ok!

[BaconRaygun]

I used the 3.2 x 4.8 x .4

[HeliSmith]

I have an alignment issue with my Warp 360 where I have to use two washers between maingear/lower bearing block. On 16T it didn't seem to be a problem but on 17t my belt burned up, actually on camera I had to land.. But I added the extra washer there's no more issue.

I noted my cog wheel rubbing and figured out the wafer washer is spreading the hole down onto those cog wheels. I warned my lead of this problem a long time ago. I just pushed it back up and used washers instead, I didn't file it.. That's what's happening tho the belt tensioner mount slot spreads open because the wafer washer squeezes into the hole. This problem is resolved with a new part, a huge one piece cf washer.. That is the Warps last known issue

I am dumping hard core smack flights on this thing now. Motor doesn't even get past warm, floats forever in an auto, one smooth turning drive train!!!

[Hawk404]

While waiting for a bag full of servo horns I spooled my bladeless 360 up yesterday.

There's minor run out in the main gear but only microscopic run out in the main shaft. By "minor" I mean less than I could correct given a lab.

My noob guess is that this is as good as it gets.

I tried ratcheting the bladeless wonder up to full capacity with a Koby governed at 80% and learned something new: it's possible to exhaust a 6S pack doing repeated setups to the point the Koby will report an undervoltage.

Looks like I'll have several cycles on my batteries before this thing ever makes it off the ground - not that that's a bad thing...

But for whatever the noob's observations are worth - I kinda like the quiet belt drive concept here.

[cbmd]

I managed to run down a LiPo during setup, too (on my 250). I bought a LiPo-flasher with single cell monitoring after that. As it can handle up to 6S, that came in very handy for my first Warp spool-ups, too. For the first flights it was a nice insurance in case my "expected flight time" estimates were really off and it has since been a nice backup if I should forget to trigger the timer. I'll remove it once I am confident enough in the setup and the packs have settled.

[Mr-Mike]

Originally Posted by HeliSmith

.. That is the Warps last known issue

I thoroughly believe this to be true and I am feeling pretty good having covered all the bases. Heli, as you told me when I first got on this bus, I will know the Warp inside out, you were right and I am pleased with that too.

I think I will have the time this week to take "it" (the build) home and even get it in the air!

[HeliSmith]

Originally Posted by Mr-Mike

I thoroughly believe this to be true and I am feeling pretty good having covered all the bases. Heli, as you told me when I first got on this bus, I will know the Warp inside out, you were right and I am pleased with that too.

I think I will have the time this week to take "it" (the build) home and even get it in the air!

That will be awesome