Logo 600 is stripping main gears

[gabrasil]

I've mounted my first Mikado (Logo 600) and I'm having troubles with the main gear.

The heli config is:
- Mikado Logo 600
- EDGE 623mm Premium Flybarless CF Blades
- MIK4608 Fullsize Silverline V-Bar V 5.2 Flybarless Stabilization System
- Kontronik Jive 80+ HV Brushless ESC (Version 9)
- Scorpion HKIII-4035-560
- MIK4412 Mikado 12 Tooth Herringbone Pinion, M1, (6mm)
- JR DS8900G Ultra-Speed Digital Gyro Servo 4.8V
- 3x JR 8717
- Battery: Turnigy Nano-Tech 5A - 10S / Turnigy 2S 2.65A
- Scott Gray Reactor X Regulator

The problem is, two minutes of smooth flight strips main gear.

[deepak]

Its all in the mesh.
Firstly make sure the pinion is good and not worn or damaged in any way.
Then line up the pinion and the gear mesh so that the line in the middle of the gear and pinion run true. By that I mean that they run along the line of the main gear and pinion. At herringbone. Then its all about mesh. There is to be no, none , nil zero! back lash.
However this does not mean that you squeeze the gears together real tight. Let the pinion and the gear mesh while spinning by hand on the bench. You will see that the main gear kinda pulls the motor pinion while thumbing it through. Find the high spot on the gear and set it there. After a flight or two it should have worn in and it should have minimal back lash.
It make take a while to get the hang of it, but once you get you rarely strip a gear.
Hope this helps. I believe if you do a search you will many more helpful hints.
good luck
d

[brain]

- Gear mesh is most important, Logo mesh is really different with others, and should be careful when assembly, make sure the pinion and gear must be aligned together, and their contact must be ensured no slop but not too tight. As my experience, you should apply a litttle bit silicon grease at the main gear after finish, and let it runs free with the motor without load for a while. That 's all!

[gabrasil]

Thanks all for tips... I'll try!

[rcmarty]

I run a slight bit of back lash.

I can rock the gear back and forth and it will give a little tick feel.
Go all around the gear to find the high spot (i mark it with a sharpie) Mikado is so well made but there will be a high spot to find.

Another consideration is to what temp the mesh was set VS the temp of the gear in operation.

A perfectly set gear in an air conditioned house will be too tight at the field in the summers heat.

The result is the gear melting , not so much stripping.

Have a close look at the gear and see if it's been melted or stripped out.

Granted i'm no expert but that looks melted to me. I've done one gear in on my 600se on a hot day (35c) I've since run the mesh a slight bit looser since and had no issues at all.

The heringbone setup is very strong , so unless your putting down some more than normal power with no care for cyclic management what so ever , you'll be good.

Counter bearing in use ?


Martin

[2cants]

Originally Posted by rcmarty

I run a slight bit of back lash.

Granted i'm no expert but that looks melted to me. I've done one gear in on my 600se on a hot day (35c) I've since run the mesh a slight bit looser since and had no issues at all.
Martin

+1.

I found my pinion was very hot initially, and to me your pic looks melted - likely caused by the last vew moments at spool down.

To solve, I changed the PWM and power setting on the CC80HV ESC, double checked mesh (using the A4 paper method - very tight against paper&main gear), and also lithium gear grease.

The results for me were night and day. Using my Bantham temp probe - pinion was 70*Celcius initial (too hot to touch for more than 1sec), after the adjustments and grease it was cool.

Goodluck.

[Laughingstill]

You need to find the high spot on the main gear and set the mesh to NO LASH with the 12T pinion. There is not much room for error with that pinion as it does not have the tooth contact the larger pinions have.

[Mentalic]

The pinion is always gonna be hot, its connected to the core of a hot motor through the shaft. I line up the pinion and push it into the gear, done. Then apply a little plastic grease (molly kote em-30L) to keep the heat down. The grease makes a big difference.

http://www.readyheli.com/TTRE9011-Pl...e_p_38387.html

[bj660raptor]

Yep pimipns get hot amd melt the gear,whitelightning cleanride goes on as liquid and sets up as wax,will lower maingear temps by as mich as 10degrees.

[el guapo]

I'm using molly kote em-30L too. I started using it because I thought it would help it break in. wild guess really. but my gears have been working pretty good since them.

I got a pint of it off ebay.

[abanihani]

this is a 100% mesh problem in the logo, i am not too fond of zero backlash in main gears, the heat will definitely expand the main gear and a little back lash so you have a tic tac sound when you spin the main gear in my opinion is good and healthy. My method has been to install the motor and then slip in the pinion loose, push on the motor and pinion against the main gear really tight with zero back lash. Now spin the mean gear sevral times, this will align the pinion exactly center and achieve the vertical alignment necessary. at this point tighten the setscrew to make a dent on the shaft. Now remove the motor and pinion and tighten the setscrew more. Put the motor back and adjust the proper mesh by putting a small peice of paper or plastic between the pinion and main gear. tighten the motor bolts and spin the gear or motor to remove the plastic piece or paper. all done and you will have a little backlash with this method. I have over than 100 flights on 2 logo 600 i own without a single main gear stripping issues. Hope that help and good luck.