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Raptor G4/E720 Thunder Tiger Raptor G4/E720 Helicopters


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Old 01-18-2015, 03:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New e700 owner questions

I just got JRAY's e700 on Friday and I've been going through it and had a few questions.

1. What is the funny upside down T shaped hole for near the rear of the upper right frame?

2. Is the included driver a T10? Has anyone found a quality driver that has a 1/4" hex shank for use in a drill?

3. Is anyone running the 12T pinion? How is the main gear holding up to the smaller pinion?
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Question 3. I am running a 12 tooth with good results but I am running a lower head speed setup and not mashing on the model.

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Old 01-18-2015, 06:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That T shaped hole is so you can move the tail servo forward when you convert to nitro. That's what I'm going to use it for anyway. You can see it in this pic
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Question 3. I am running a 12 tooth with good results but I am running a lower head speed setup and not mashing on the model.

Tim
What are you running? I have an Xera 4030-3Y 470kv that I was thinking about installing with the 12T just for fun. Right now, I put in my 4235-520 w/13T since it appears the 12T pinions are out of stock.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prototype3a View Post
I just got JRAY's e700 on Friday and I've been going through it and had a few questions.

2. Is the included driver a T10? Has anyone found a quality driver that has a 1/4" hex shank for use in a drill?
It's a T10. I ordered this one, twice, from Amazon and got the wrong size.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VNKOA4

They were quick to refund; I didn't even have to send it back.

I'm using a short bit I got out of a set in a long bit holder... Not perfect, but OK.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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1. What is the funny upside down T shaped hole for near the rear of the upper right frame?
I don't see it. Does it show up in the manual?

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Old 01-18-2015, 07:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Remove the Velcro.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hunh. Maybe it's for holding the velcro on.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks like CPOtools has that bosch bit so I might pick that up when shopping for some other bosch goodies.

I kind of suspect the upper frames were designed with the possibility of a nitro lower in the future so you might be right, Squeely.
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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How are people using magnetic canopy mounts? What make/model and other parts are needed?
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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How are people using magnetic canopy mounts? What make/model and other parts are needed?
Can't remember my particulars, but I had them on all four spots and the canopy blew off.

Now I use them on the fronts, which is much easier than poking away with the originals, and RC Booya on the back for solid latching.
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I thought about doing the same on my x7 but ended up with Gaui X5 (grommit) mounts on the front and RC Booyas on the back.

I'm trying hard to set mine up for battery changes without removing the canopy but I just don't trust the stock mounts to hold the canopy on so I figured I might as well do the magnetic mounts in the front while I as at it.
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I thought about doing the same on my x7 but ended up with Gaui X5 (grommit) mounts on the front and RC Booyas on the back.

I'm trying hard to set mine up for battery changes without removing the canopy but I just don't trust the stock mounts to hold the canopy on so I figured I might as well do the magnetic mounts in the front while I as at it.
Changing packs from the rear is really sweet, but if taking the canopy off is a big PITA it might induce you to go light on the periodic check-overs.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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How did you guys route your tail servo lead?
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
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How did you guys route your tail servo lead?
You will most likely need a servo extension depending on where you mounted your FBL unit .
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:25 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I was planning to replace the lead on the servo since the jacket was nicked but I'm not sure which route through the frames to take.
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I ran it from left side to the right through the round holes in the back (sheathed the cable), and then along the middle of the right side to a regulator or FBL (depending on whether I had an HV servo on there). Needed an extension, short or long depending which.
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Wire mesh, made my own servo extension and went directly from the servo all the way along the inside of the frame below the lower bearing block to my FBL unit up front underneath the cyclic servos. Built 2 this way and it works great.

FYI, I just recently built one of these for a customer and learned a new trick. If you get a small block of plastic or something, you can space off your FBL unit far enough to use the lower cyclic servo mount as an access point. Combined with grommets in the holes, it makes for some really clean wiring.

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Old 02-24-2015, 01:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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That is DOPE, Chris. I may have to copy/improve on that idea. I currently have my vbar out on the tray but I like this a lot better. Only downside is, I doubt it would work for the Spirit since it doesn't have an external sensor unit.
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:32 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Haha thanks. I was sorta bummed when I realized the customer's wiring would end up better looking than mine (due to different components) ... but that's what I'm paid for, right?

Not sure what a Spirit is, perhaps you mean Spartan, in which case I agree and don't think this method would work too well.
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