1/3 of the main gear stripped

[Usagi777]

I think I stripped the screw, because I have two of those L hex key, and none of them work for that particular hex screw. A lesson learn for me to use a proper tool. Anybody know where to buy spares motor mount to frame screws? Does the Complete Hardware Set: 300 X have it? Can't tell by looking at the web site pics.

But the good news is the heli flys good

Originally Posted by Nelsonisms

Are you sure the screw stripped out and not the hex driver?.

[Nelsonisms]

Originally Posted by Usagi777

I think I stripped the screw, because I have two of those L hex key, and none of them work for that particular hex screw. A lesson learn for me to use a proper tool. Anybody know where to buy spares motor mount to frame screws? Does the Complete Hardware Set: 300 X have it? Can't tell by looking at the web site pics.

But the good news is the heli flys good

I'm glad to hear it's flying good.

Yeah, I'm fairly certain the complete hardware set has a full set of them. I just broke into mine the other night to find a washer and was surprised with all the stuff that is in there. I think it's a worthwhile purchase just to have on hand, but it's certainly not the most cost effective way to get one screw.

Ive had this site recommended to me as a good trustworthy source for random screws and such if you can figure out what size is needed. I'm not too well versed in metric screw sizes, but surely someone here will know what size screws these are.

http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/r1b.html

The info at the link above says this on the subject...

For your information, approximately 25 millimeters equals 1 inch. The first number is the width and the second number is the length. As an example, an M3x25mm is 3 millimeters wide by about 1 inch long. Also, as with most screws, you do not count the head as part of the length.

So it should be pretty easy to figure it out with a ruler or some calipers.

[Usagi777]

Thanks for the info. I think I might need also to get that metallic ring where the screw sits in. I might break that ring, if I choose to the dremel route. So the best bet would be getting either the new motor mount or getting that hardware set. None of them are cost effective for sure to get just one screw.

[nartac]

do yourself a favor and get some MIP Thorp hex drivers. They are kind of pricey but worth every single penny of it. I have not stripped any screws since purchasing them.

BTW, try heating up the screws up with a soldering iron or a lighter. This will burn off the loctite a little and it will allow you to unscrew the screws a lot easier.

[sn00p]

To get that stripped hex out use a star drive key.... T5, T6 or T7 or sommin. Sorry cant remeber the exact * size. They are a helpful tool to have anyways so buy a small set or a driver with the T/* bits included in the set.

[Usagi777]

Thanks for the help guys. The stripped screw crisis averted. I went to purchase a proper tool from the lhs, tried it just like Nelsonism predicted.... it worked. Now after flying the heli for about 3 times, the heli started to perform slight right roll during the spool up (75% flat). The right roll is intermittent. Did not happen on normal mode. Tried to re-mesh the gear, but the same behavior. I guess the saga continues....

[Nelsonisms]

I feel your pain man. I went through it the first few weeks I had the 300X. About 4 flights in it started the intermittent right roll thing and within about 12 flights the bearings in the stock motor seized and ate themselves. Between about the 6th flight and the 12th flight I did manage to negate the right roll thing by relocating the BeastX up to the gyro mount and securing it with the 3M tape. But since the motor seized shortly thereafter, I believe it was failing motor bearings that were causing high frequency vibrations that were screwing with the gyros on the BeastX. Moving the BeastX must have just isolated it better from these vibrations. However I've left the BeastX in the upper location because it makes it much easier to adjust it.

So my suggestions are... get a new motor and relocate the BeastX if you're so inclined. At the very least I'd double check the gear mesh and make sure you're not running it too tight. The old strip of printer paper between the gears while you tighten the motor has worked well for me. It's a good idea to turn the gear 360 degrees while holding the motor so you can feel the point on the main gear that is the tightest and set the mesh at that point. If the mesh is too tight it can cause some strain and vibration since it is usually slightly out of round and this will also facilitate wearing out the motor bearings faster.

I'll be testing out this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyperion-HS-...item2c70789234 clone of the Scorpion 2213-14 this weekend. By all accounts it is a decent motor for about 30 bucks. Since the stock motor failed I've been running Don's Wicked 4800 and it has been an excellent upgrade as well for about 30 bucks.

Believe me I cursed Horizon up and down for good long while for selling me a helicopter that was so problematic. But now I look at it like it was a good learning experience. I'm pretty happy with how my 300X performs now and I love having a heli in this size, but it has been a lot of trial and error getting it there.

[Usagi777]

Nelsonisms, relocated BeastX to the top frame ....done. Used that 3m outdoor tape as well. I did that upon arrival of this heli. Now for the motor, I'm game to change the motor. Is that DonsRC motor a total plug and play? I would like to minimize new variables as much as possible for now. Let me know how it goes with the hyperion motor as well.

Man I really want to make this heli to work, I think it is a good size for me to fly on my usual spot.

Originally Posted by Nelsonisms

So my suggestions are... get a new motor and relocate the BeastX if you're so inclined. At the very least I'd double check the gear mesh and make sure you're not running it too tight. The old strip of printer paper between the gears while you tighten the motor has worked well for me. It's a good idea to turn the gear 360 degrees while holding the motor so you can feel the point on the main gear that is the tightest and set the mesh at that point. If the mesh is too tight it can cause some strain and vibration since it is usually slightly out of round and this will also facilitate wearing out the motor bearings faster.

[Nelsonisms]

Originally Posted by Usagi777

Nelsonisms, relocated BeastX to the top frame ....done. Used that 3m outdoor tape as well. I did that upon arrival of this heli. Now for the motor, I'm game to change the motor. Is that DonsRC motor a total plug and play? I would like to minimize new variables as much as possible for now. Let me know how it goes with the hyperion motor as well.

Man I really want to make this heli to work, I think it is a good size for me to fly on my usual spot.

Yeah, the Wicked motor is pretty much plug and play. I mean you do have to solder on some bullet connectors. But it has the same size shaft as the stock motor. The only difference is that the stock motor has a stepped shaft. Meaning it's larger at the top. The Wicked has a straight shaft all the way down. The stock pinion is stepped to fit the stepped shaft on the stock motor and some people say it's not so good to use it on a straight shaft like the wicked. However, I did that and it worked fine before I switched to the Lynx slant pinions. Of course pinions are cheap and it's pretty easy to get one that is a straight bore. In the options for the motor you need to pick the one that says "The motor only with short 2.3mm (no standoff)"

However, it may be too early for me to say, but my initial thoughts are that the Hyperion 2213-3585 (or the Scorpion equivalent 2213-14) is a better choice than than the Wicked at this point. With a 13T pinion it is roughly equivalent to the Wicked on a 10T pinion with a little more torque (which is a good thing). You just have more options with the Hyperion/Scorpion. The Wicked is pretty much tapped out driving the 10T pinion, but the Hyperion/Scorpion can easily drive a 14T pinion for even more head speed. Another bonus is it comes with the bullet connectors pre-soldered. I should also note that it has a larger shaft (3.17mm) so it's a little tougher, but the stock pinions won't fit it.

I made my initial review about tonight's flights in the motor and esc thread, so rather than repeat it, heres the link.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...495777&page=31

[Usagi777]

Noticed a throttle cable was dangling barely touching the boom, secured that cable and the right roll is no more.

[sn00p]

Originally Posted by Usagi777

Noticed a throttle cable was dangling barely touching the boom, secured that cable and the right roll is no more.

[Eject.Steve]

Originally Posted by Usagi777

Noticed a throttle cable was dangling barely touching the boom, secured that cable and the right roll is no more.

Some people put down a bead of glue. I put some double stick tape over my servo leads.