Nano CP X tips

[ArchmageAU]

I posted this in another thread. This is a quick way of replacing a nano frame.

I do not remove the head at all, nor any swash ball links.

To replace frame and motor:
- Remove canopy
- Unscrew main board
- Disconnect motor and tail from board
- Remove tail
- Unscrew each servo from frame
- Remove servos from frame, unlinking from swash pushrods (do not remove pushrods from swash ball links - this can be tricky with back servo as little manouvering room).
- Remove landing gear
- Remove main gear (should pop off - may have to scrape off some glue)
- Pull out main shaft (head assembly and swash attached - carefully remove swash AR pin from guide)
- Remove motor from frame
- Remove main bearings from shaft (gentle circular motion with screwdriver)
(now completely disassembled for frame transplant - great time to clean servos)

- Add bearings to frame (great to time to re-grease shaft bearings)
- Add motor to frame
- Insert main shaft into frame (carefully ensure swash AR pin is in guide)
- Add main gear (check mesh with motor pinion, should be good, but no friction - once happy, glue with liquid electrical tape if desired)
- Add landing gear
- Attach servos to swash pushrods and re-screw to frame
- Add tail (wind wire around canopy pin and plug into main board)
- Connect motor to main board
- Screw main board to frame
- Attach canopy.

This method keeps pushrods at same length, so no 0 pitch adjustment required.

As pushrods, not popped from swash, no stress on swash links. I find detaching an attaching ball links stressful as you have to be careful not to break these little things.

A note about gluing motors. If you do glue your motor in, you will need to remove a servo to replace a motor so you can scratch off the glue.

Be careful handling frame as canopy pins can be quite weak.

This works method works for me. Hope it helps others.

[paul.3]

Hi all
This is my first post so i hope its done ok.
Finally worked out my shakes on my nano after trying everything,after changing complete head,adding grommets,new blades,new main gear.
It worked out to be twitchy bloody servos,cleaned and or replaced and br mild nano flew like a dream.
Hell happy as, as its been a problem for a while.

[lkagan]

I picked up an e-flite 35c lipo over the weekend. I can't feel any difference between that and the stock 25c. Just thought I'd share.

[GoatRider]

Originally Posted by lkagan

I picked up an e-flite 35c lipo over the weekend. I can't feel any difference between that and the stock 25c. Just thought I'd share.

What kind of flying are you doing? Just hovering around, or smack 3D?

[lkagan]

Smack and (miniature) big air 3D. I focused on hard collective like tic-tics and rainbows.

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by lkagan

I picked up an e-flite 35c lipo over the weekend. I can't feel any difference between that and the stock 25c. Just thought I'd share.

+1

My battery findings so far:

The 35C E-Flites aren't really much better than the stockers. Bit more power in the very beginning, but they loose their omph pretty fast. Very disappointing! I had hoped for MicroHeli power combined with lower weight...

Stock batteries does not seem to last very long, no biggie though. (I charge at 0.3 amps).

Now! The 200mAh 35C MicroHeli batteries! They are much more powerful than the stock or E-Flite 35C batteries! And they stay powerful during the entire flight! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!
http://www.microheli.com/store/produ...roducts_id/941

[Besen]

What kind of flight times are you getting with the microhelis?

[SHYguy]

Haven't tested, I still fly 3:30 like I do with the stockers. But you could probably go longer... (I fly Mild BL)

Anyone compared to the 200mAh Oversky batts?

One more tip: Stay away from the AEO tail motor. Weaker than stock and last shorter. Too bad as the price is good.

[GoatRider]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

Haven't tested, I still fly 3:30 like I do with the stockers. But you could probably go longer... (I fly Mild BL)

Anyone compared to the 200mAh Oversky batts?

I've got both, with the label off the MH they are almost indistinguishable. I set my timer to 5 minutes.

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by GoatRider

I've got both, with the label off the MH they are almost indistinguishable. I set my timer to 5 minutes.

Thx! Wow! 5 sure is great, will try!

[GoatRider]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

Thx! Wow! 5 sure is great, will try!

I set my timer to 4 for stock LiPos. YMMV.

[lkagan]

I'm at 4 for stock lipos too. They come down at around 3.78 volts which is good. I haven't paid attention to milliamps put back in which would be the right way to tell. I push the heli.

[Besen]

I also use the stock lipos and set the timer for 4 minutes. I put back in from 115 to 120 mah. The heli is all stock (except for about three pounds of scotch tape on the canopy).

[SHYguy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skyartec-WAS...item3ccfe4f413

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skyartec-WAS...item51a9d66d94

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HELI-MAX-NOV...item48540f3abf

[jlk69]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

SKYARTEC WASP100 Nano CP Red Canopy Nano 028 | eBay

SKYARTEC WASP100 Nano CP Canopy Nano 023 | eBay

Heli Max Novus CX Nano Helicopter Printed Canopy New | eBay

I got the http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skyartec-WAS...item3ccfe4f413.

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by jlk69

I got the SKYARTEC WASP100 Nano CP Red Canopy.

Lookin' good there! Did the canopy holes fit too?

[jlk69]

Had to punch new holes. You can see in the pictures the stock grommets (behind the other two). Will trim to eliminate them. Canopy needs reinforcing along bottom. Didn't do it and second crash cracked it. Have repaired with a thin piece of plastic glued with CA. Better to put some tape along the bottom edge and maybe it doesn't crack with easy crash.

[SHYguy]

I see. If they're weak I guess it's better to stick with the WLToys ones in stead
Look cool though!

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

One more tip: Stay away from the AEO tail motor. Weaker than stock and last shorter. Too bad as the price is good.

Update: It flew like a turd yesterday, real blowout city! I had concluded the AEO tail motors are weaker than the stockers and are not usable. Then I recalled NCCraig's statement that the V2 tail is much better than the KBDD one. I never felt the same. Yes, it's a hair better when totally new. But it gets bent outta shape very easily while the KBDD just keeps going.

BUT! The V2 is lighter, so I put it on just to test if that suited the AEO motor better. Plus upgraded to MH alu grips and head... the result was a totally new heli! It never flew better! It even sounded and felt like it had more head speed and more pop! And as long as the V2 rotor is in good condition very little tail blowout!

[CousinLarry]

Good stuff!