How to zero out pitch/roll/yaw rates at center sticks for the bad mainboards

[litehawkdown]

Originally Posted by Ric66

Reminds me of the quirky "swash leveling on rudder input" flaw that all mSRX's have. HH has never acknowledged publicly that there is a design flaw in the control algorithm (as far as I know). mSRX owners continue to hope with every new board version that a factory fix will emerge. This 130X problem may be a manufacturing QC issue, but it appears to be so common I would not consider it a defect in just a few boards. Perhaps the slight variability of resistance or capacitance values in controller board components is causing the issue, and there is no built-in feature that allows adjustment during factory bench testing (calibration). I think the HH approach is typically to replace boards for those who complain the loudest and hope the next one shipped will either fix the problem by chance, provide a placebo affect, or cause the consumer to just give up or find a workaround. Don't get me wrong, I think Blade helis are amazing marvels of micro-engineering, I just wish their tech support would come clean and help us to know exactly what issues we are dealing with. However, I am realistic enough to understand the business and litigation concerns they have. That said, thanks to DCH for helping us find and implement this awesome workaround!

So true. I just found this post after I posted about HH not coming clean about this issue in another thread in here. Things like this have made me steer clear of HH products as of late. I was excited about the new 540qq. After I didn't get one for X-mas I figured why not build one myself. Then I am to blame if it flies like a POS.

[gdawgs56]

Originally Posted by litehawkdown

So true. I just found this post after I posted about HH not coming clean about this issue in another thread in here. Things like this have made me steer clear of HH products as of late. I was excited about the new 540qq. After I didn't get one for X-mas I figured why not build one myself. Then I am to blame if it flies like a POS.

i flew there new SBACH 342 and its amazing!! It handles the wind better than my 42in mid wing plane. I think its cause of the AS3x in it. I am going to buy one for myself when money permits.

[Covers69]

I checked this on mine first needed right 7 on aileron and right 6 rudder subtrim. I figure I'll unplug the battery plug it back in and check it again for good measure when I dd that my aileron needed a completely different subtrim after checking many times unplugging the battery I find my aileron subtrim needs anywhere between right 7 and left 7 and rudder varies a little bit to but just between right 6 and right 7. Its still flyable just never could figure out why it would constantly drift one way or the other from flight to flight. Anyone else had this problem should I just try to get hh to send me a new board? I just got rid of my spoolup resonance vibes this bird just seems like one problem after another wish I would have just put my money towards something better.

[sbarro]

Hey guys, after leveling the swash with this method, do you find that when switching to idle up mode, the swash tilts like crazy, i.e. normal mode and idle up need radically different subtrim?
DX8 transmitter if that makes a difference.

[DoubleCH]

First off, this method does NOT level swash. It zeros out pitch/roll rates because the gyros are badly calibrated by the mainboard software.

Secondly, if you use trim instead of subtrim with the DX8 or other TX, make sure trim setup is set to "Common" which means the trim adjustments apply to all flight modes. If you prefer to have different trim settings for different flight mode (I see no point for the 130X model memory) set the same trim adjustments in all flight modes, or repeat the procedures for all modes.

[sbarro]

Thanks for that, I did mean that I used subtrim to zero the swash- i.e.keep it from moving without any input.
And, your second solution, that did it. My trim setting was set to F-Mode- I switched to Common and now looks good.
Thanks

[Robocop]

I just bought a 130 and a new handset to have a go tried a couple of helis so am ok,got it last week ready for this week,and this is happening to mine the pitch and yaw servos are not going back to neutral...Until i go back to no collective,put me off now though Horizon would be better than this

[johnthekeymonkey]

Has anyone got back a repaired mainboard from the Horizon service in the meantime? Did they fix the problem? Mine is still "under construction" at the service team.

[52Heli]

Did this over the weekend and nothing like a vertical take off without
fighting the sticks. Also glad to lose the right drifting during hover.

[audacity]

Originally Posted by DoubleCH

First off, this method does NOT level swash. It zeros out pitch/roll rates because the gyros are badly calibrated by the mainboard software.

Secondly, if you use trim instead of subtrim with the DX8 or other TX, make sure trim setup is set to "Common" which means the trim adjustments apply to all flight modes. If you prefer to have different trim settings for different flight mode (I see no point for the 130X model memory) set the same trim adjustments in all flight modes, or repeat the procedures for all modes.

thanks for starting this thread. your video is great. having this conversation with other 130 owners; half know exactly what i am talking about and the other half have no idea. many of the half that has no idea, has a real problem with comprehending it too. after all the explaining they say yeah make sure the swash is leveled prior to flight.

so the B-end all question is: if ya you could have swapped the copter out and or found one that didn't require st, would you?

again thanks for the info!

[DoubleCH]

[QUOTE=audacity;4681006
so the B-end all question is: if ya you could have swapped the copter out and or found one that didn't require st, would you?![/QUOTE]
My answer is depends on how easy to find a good one. If I just bought a new 130X that require subtrim, I would call HH and see if they'll send me a new board. If they ask to send in the current board or the whole heli to inspect, I would rather just subtrim it. For another example, when my friend bought his new 130X at my favorite LHS, I asked to test-bind with his TX on both birds available and picked the one that required the least subtrim.

[audacity]

Originally Posted by DoubleCH

My answer is depends on how easy to find a good one. If I just bought a new 130X that require subtrim, I would call HH and see if they'll send me a new board. If they ask to send in the current board or the whole heli to inspect, I would rather just subtrim it. For another example, when my friend bought his new 130X at my favorite LHS, I asked to test-bind with his TX on both birds available and picked the one that required the least subtrim.

i'm going to go up there today and check out a few.

[M3bluegsr]

Thanks for this, 3 clicks down elevator for me.. It caused enough drift to notice before.

[bsjohn84]

I tried these procedures and they work fine until I unplug the battery and then plug it back in. At that point it goes back to doing the same thing despite the subtrim. Any suggestions?

[DoubleCH]

Did u use freshly charged batteries both times? Sometimes if u keep battery plugged in for long time gyro data may drift. I subtrim with fresh battery and it's always consistent with fresh battery.

[fusionsx00]

i think you are trimming wrong , if this is not working for you
then you have a priceless 100% working board. you have to watch the swash drift for a while, i hit throttle hold and see which way it was going.
now when i hit throttle hold the swash does not move at all.
and in flight the heli just sits there, im still amazed

[bsjohn84]

I timmed it per the instructions, engaged and disengaed the gyro multiple times via throttle hold (waiting at least the minimum 4 sec each time), and it worked correctly evrytime . as soon as I disonnected the battery and immediately reconnected the same battey it went right back to what it was doing with complete disregard for the subtrim that was programmed into the TX.

[fusionsx00]

maybe you dont have to trim it out then. does it hover in place?

its either that, or your board is not allowing the corrections and resets
the zero plane of the gyro each time.

[DoubleCH]

Originally Posted by bsjohn84

I timmed it per the instructions, engaged and disengaed the gyro multiple times via throttle hold (waiting at least the minimum 4 sec each time), and it worked correctly evrytime . as soon as I disonnected the battery and immediately reconnected the same battey it went right back to what it was doing with complete disregard for the subtrim that was programmed into the TX.

Do you know what version of mainboard (hiding under the heatshrink on the edge of the board right where the frame rails are holding it)?

Try this. Unplug motor and throttle up (TH off). Keep it that way for at least 10-15 seconds without touching sticks or flight mode or TH. If swash doesn't move for the 20 seconds. Move the cyclic stick a little and release. Does swash tilt to one side and stay tilted at that angle and stop as soon as you release cyclic stick?

[bsjohn84]

as soon as I throttle up both aileron and then rudder servos immediately begin to move at a slow, continuous rate. Instead of watching the swash or the tail rotor blades to deternine this I have been warching the servo motor gear to see if it turns. the direction they move induces a right roll and a clockwise yaw everytime.