HDX300 Build Videos wll be here

[johnnychimpo]

I wish there was a canopy that was specifically for the hdx300. The Walkera and shogun canopies just aint right. I would like a scaled down version of a trex canopy personally.

[Casey A. Sigmon]

Hey ptremb. Yeah i found most those problems, Grinded on my main shaft so they bite, lowered my head speed, decreased the pitch, um i have the tail box that you have to put the little pin in to hold the pulley on the the tail shaft. at this point it seems that you can't get enough right deflection. it takes Max right throw to barley turn to the right and if you ledt off it goes in a circle to the left like 2 or three times before you can do anything. I put the 3800kv outrunner on it along with the 40 tooth pulley and i tried different pinions, 11,10, 9 stuck with the 9 b/c the 10&11 the head speed was extreme. my brother has it now wanted to give it a look.

[Casey A. Sigmon]

Originally Posted by johnnychimpo

I wish there was a canopy that was specifically for the hdx300. The Walkera and shogun canopies just aint right. I would like a scaled down version of a trex canopy personally.

There is a nice canopy on heli diret that i got it is white and clear. only $4.50. you have to make your own hole for your gorments though, however it works better and is more roomy than the little green and yellow ones.

[johnnychimpo]

That is the one i have. Its a shogun canopy i think. It is too big actually. If they made some carbon side supports you could use trex landing gear and get it off the ground more that canopy might look good.

[ptremb]

Casey,you should have 9-10° pitch.I wouldn't go less than 8°.With the 9 tooth that gives you about 2350 rpm.I would set your →pitch←(should be THROTTLE,sorry my mistake,see below) curve like so
1)0
2)50
3)85
4)90
5)100
the best way to do this is to use a tach and measure the rotor speed @100% with 10° pitch(base speed), than set point 3 to have that same speed @0° pitch, than set piont 4 to that same speed @5°.what this does is maintain the same max rpm at the tail reguardless of the amount of pitch.If you don't spin the tail you can't control the torque

[Casey A. Sigmon]

Thanks. ill give it a try and let ya know.

[ptremb]

WAIT,WAIT!!!!!!Casey I just realized I typed that wrong, that shoud be THROTTLE not PITCH


You should have these for a normal curve set(start up/hover learn)
THROTTLE; PITCH
1)0; 1)40 = -3°
2)50; 2)45 = -1°
3)85; 3)50 = 0°
4)90; 4)75 = +5°
5)100; 5)100 = +10°

If this gets you started than we can work on the idle-up1 setup/fine tweeking

[wizard35]

ptremb,

I think I have figured it out. It looks pretty goo, but still need some electronic to test it. Thanks! Building it a bit at a time, ordered more parts last night. What an expensive, but extremely addicting hobby!!!

[Casey A. Sigmon]

ok ptremb, doing that however, something is strange about it . it has lots of power, but i can not get any right yaw. Its just not enough. so, i noticed that the pitch slider did not have enough throw so , i reversed the direction of the belt and tail blades so tha the spin clockwise, this gave me more than enough tail pitch, but of course no athority. it seems like it boggs the engine down when you apply right yaw, however not giving any response. I HATE THIS HELI. I really do. I've never experienced this many problems with any other heli. The answer is simple. But i guess im to close to the problem. Throttle is how you said, pitch is how you said, I have grinded the main shaft and it is not slipping. same goes for the tail. no slipping. ive got the head speed as slow as my speed controller will allow. where is my right yaw? at all different speeds, and pitches it has no throw. What a peice.
I think im about ready to just trash it. what a shame. i dont belive that this thing will ever leave the ground. How did you get yours going? i got the forty tooth pulley. the torque is un controlable. ive got the 3800 kv outrunner. is this to much power? maybe a smaller motor. less torque= more right yaw? right?

thanks Casey

[micen2]

Originally Posted by Casey A. Sigmon

ok ptremb, doing that however, something is strange about it . it has lots of power, but i can not get any right yaw. Its just not enough. so, i noticed that the pitch slider did not have enough throw so , i reversed the direction of the belt and tail blades so tha the spin clockwise, this gave me more than enough tail pitch, but of course no athority. it seems like it boggs the engine down when you apply right yaw, however not giving any response. I HATE THIS HELI. I really do. I've never experienced this many problems with any other heli. The answer is simple. But i guess im to close to the problem. Throttle is how you said, pitch is how you said, I have grinded the main shaft and it is not slipping. same goes for the tail. no slipping. ive got the head speed as slow as my speed controller will allow. where is my right yaw? at all different speeds, and pitches it has no throw. What a peice.
I think im about ready to just trash it. what a shame. i dont belive that this thing will ever leave the ground. How did you get yours going? i got the forty tooth pulley. the torque is un controlable. ive got the 3800 kv outrunner. is this to much power? maybe a smaller motor. less torque= more right yaw? right?

thanks Casey

I got mineses flyin fair lines...with the exception that the head is ruthlessly sticky and sloppy, and will suprise you with it's "drunken monkey" technology. ........sigh....

also mentionable is ...poor wizard....when he realizes how much money ("expensive hobby") he spent to learn that he could have done much better..it will be too late..this heli is a bad spending venue...or as bob calls it..."a bad platform"....there are other prospects that may yield better investablity rewards.

*micen shakes head in sadness for those dollars "lost" all over the world today.*

[Casey A. Sigmon]

Originally Posted by wizard35

ptremb,

I think I have figured it out. It looks pretty goo, but still need some electronic to test it. Thanks! Building it a bit at a time, ordered more parts last night. What an expensive, but extremely addicting hobby!!!

Wizard, Ok so i'll tell you right now, DON'T BUY ANYMORE PARTS FOR THE HDX! Stop now get out while you still can this is a BAD heli. They are bad investment. Please belive us, I've got over 600.00 in mine and ive been working on it since labor day 2006! These are poorly designed and not well thought out. They have upgrades for upgrades that still don't work. you would be way better off with ANYTHING ELSE! I didn't belive all the talk about it either i just figured they didn't have enough experince, but whoa was i wrong. my won't fly either just spins in circles. buy a trex or something along those lines. don't get sucked in. This is the worst heli ive ever seen! It looks pretty but thats it. Heed this warning. HDX300 equals dissappointed wizard.

[ptremb]

I will tell you this,as finless stated earlier in this thread "this thing requires a boat load of futzing to make it fly" .I have had mine flying a few times on a 2s lipo(gave about 2k headspeed) and did fairly well,but found the power lacking this way,realy needs a 3s which I will get later.I have been down a few months as I had a real hard landing that caused the tail fin to get real personal w/ the tail rotor causing it to return to the many parts it's made of.The time it was in the air it was very stable and went where I pointed it.it would actualy lift off straight up on take off unlike either of my other 2 that go where they want when they want(this tends to keep your fingers in shape though).Ok enough w/ the mumbling,onward & upward.


This heli is in essence a shogun w/ a different frame and rotor blades,those fly so there is no reason this shouldn't.The most important things that I've found w/ this heli is the tail must be setup properly and the throttle curve must be tweeked properly.If these 2 things aren't done the heli won't fly controlably if @ all.The next is,,,,, headspeed,headspeed,headspeed,anything over 2300 should yeild good flight.If the head isn't spinning the tail isn't spinning,if the tail isn't spinning you can't counter the torque generated by the pitch of the main blades when they start to create lift.This is the reason for wanting a tach(not realy necessary but very helpful).

What you want to achieve on your throttle curve is a constant head speed reguardless of pitch,this is beacuse pitch is linear (0°→10° or 50,75,100= point3,4,5),but the power required to supply that pitch may not be linear,so if you get 2300rpm w/ 10° of pitch at 100%(point5) setting, you want to have 2300rpm w/ 0° (point3) & 2300rpm w/ 5°pitch (point4) so you may end up w/ 80,90,100 or 90,95,100(point3,4,5 on your throttle curve).these numbers are arbitrary and vary from heli to heli even using the exact same parts.Rember this isn't set in stone but will get you close enough that your heli SHOULD atleast fly.Hence the reason for all the tweeking.Some find that having more ,or less , on the headspeed for a pitch range say from 3°→7° gives smoother flight control,but this is only the current pilots perception and personal taste.If someone else flys it they may find it to be sluggish or squirly.
Now by doing this what you have done is ensure that you are supplying full power to the tail @ all times,more tail speed means less tail pitch is required to create the same amount of verticle thrust(yaw) as lots of tail pitch with slower tail speed which is very inefficent and puts a large draw on the motor creating a vicious cycle ,more drag,more power,more pitch,etc.I could go on .
This gives the basics up front,the next is the tail setup.which I will do tomorrow.
I hope this helps & if I missed anything just ask.

[Casey A. Sigmon]

Thanks keep on keepin on.

[ptremb]

Ok now for the tail.
Many will argue there is easier ways or less time consuming procedures for setting up the tail,but DON'T SKIMP ON TIME SPENT SETTING UP THE TAIL.Sure you can do a quick eyeball and call it good.It may fly great,it may not.I look at it this way,if your willing to spend 1hr on head setup alone, you should atleast alocate the same for the tail,because no tail control, no flight.This in no way means that a very experianced pilot couldn't make it fly,it just means that he has the experiance to deal with a very wide range of improper setup should it occur.(and no I'm not saying I'm one of those guys,I have a hard time with nose in)

On the tail issue,do it in this order(I don't know how much you know exactly so don't take this as an insult.I'm going to just lay it out.use it as a double check if you will).DISABLE THE MAIN MOTOR TO PREVENT SUDDEN ROTOR MOVEMENT AND POSSIBLE INJURY.Don't mean to yell but this is very important as you will be moving the tx sticks and I don't want to see any blood.Remove the tail push rod first.set the gyro in std mode,no gain,rudder trim in center and place the horn in the most 90° position available.If it's a little twards the body that is better than twards the tail.
1)Follow the gyro setup procedure as per finless's vid if you use the stock gyro (or any of the clones)to remove the drift.only do this part for now.If you use any other type of gyro skip to step 3
2)Now that the drift part is removed as much as possible,go back to std mode no gain,BUT don't move the trim.this is no longer a trim function it's a drift function.

3)Flip both tail blades to the same side,Move the tail slider from full neg. to full pos. and measure the V made.You should have an equal measurement when the rod is pushed to the tail case than pulled to the body(this means nothing at the moment,just keep it in mind for later).reconnect the tail push rod to the horn.Now slide the tail servo fwd/aft as needed to bring the tail blades together so that when looking down the boom from the rear you only see 1 blade(no V.this means you have pitch on the tail blades,you want no pitch on the tail blades at center rudder stick w/ no tail speed.
Now for the tricky part.this may take some thinking.now that the gyro is set for no drift and the servo is set for no tail pitch we need to set the max throw.
4)gyro still in std mode no gain,remove the push rod one more time.now move the rudder stick full right and get something to keep it there.Now move the tail push rod in the same direction to full deflection(we are at max pitch to counter torque in this position).see what hole on the horn lines up with the hole in the rod ball.this is your max mechanical throw(don't put the screw in just yet) to prevent binding.make a mark.Now go to full left stick and keep it there,pull your rod to the max deflection.Is the hole in the ball at the mark you made earlier?
If yes,put the screw in and your done.this means we have equal pitch in both positive and negitive tail throw

If no,is the ball closer to the body than mark?
if yes,put the screw in and your done.We aren't concerned to much w/ crazy neg tail pitch as long as you get some w/o binding as the torque will rotate the heli to the nose left anyways.

If no,the mark is closer to the body than the ball than this means we either did something wrong(tail not exactly centered,tail slider not allowing even throw) or there is something bent/binding.take a look over to be sure.If there is no issues found make a new mark at this point.flip back to right stick and see how much travel we will loose from the new mark to the full deflection.if it's less than 1/16" movement of the tail slider measured on the tail shaft,put the screw in and your done.If it's more than 1/16" split the distance between the first and second mark.this is where you want to put the screw in.

now if you find that the mark you made is in a spot that has no hole,and has enough meat to support a hole drill and screw.If the mark is just above a hole and won't support drilling use the hole.If the mark is just under a hole you can use the hole and suffer slight binding or drop slightly and drill a new hole.

If you find that the tail seems way off between pos&neg throw we can correct this,but it will mean redoing step3&4.if it gets to this point I will explain at that time as it's complicated and I don't have the time at the moment.
.

[wizard35]

Just received the JST Y-Harness from E-Flite for the HDX300 Conversion. Can someone please tell me where it gets connected and what type of connectors I should have?

[CubeMaster]

Originally Posted by johnnychimpo

I wish there was a canopy that was specifically for the hdx300. The Walkera and shogun canopies just aint right. I would like a scaled down version of a trex canopy personally.

Hi all,

Been lurking here (and other hdx forums) for weeks now... Good to find I'm not alone with all the "problems" these things come with... Though done the tail mod to counter the ccw spin. Seems to be better now but just got the 40t pulley to try (not goin to fit it yet) and fitted a heading hold gyro as opposed to the gws piezo....

I thought I'd post some pics of my bird (mainly to show johnnychimpo the T-Rex canopy does seem to look okay size wise A friend gave it to me as he said it was too small for his T-Rex?? Perhaps I got lucky.... I just got a couple of T-Rex canopy stand-offs to fit as they are marginally bigger than the HDX ones.....

Pity it's too windy here atm to fly....

[johnnychimpo]

Looks great. How is the new head working out for you??
I still think the canopy looks a bit too big for the heli though. Here is what im doing with mine right now. I don’t have it all together yet because I am waiting for my v1 head to v2 head upgrade brass ball links. The kit I got had only the long ball links. You need like 12 small one to make the v2 conversion work.

I cut up an old Walkera 22E frame to make my battery plate.

I went with the carbon stand off mount instead of the cnc alum ones because they didn’t go wide enough for the 22E canopy. I used sheet alum from an acid brush to fabricate the mount for the carbon rod.

[roabf]

Hey guys! I ordered some main shafts for a HDX (p/n S04V2) by mistake. I don't want to go through the hassle of returning them. I ordered them thinking they were a upgraded shaft for my Honey Bee CP. So, if anyone wants them, PM me and I will send them to you at no cost. Thanks!!!

[johnnychimpo]

Thanks for the offer but i need the black main shaft now. Its like v3 or 4 i think. Has the bolt and hole for the main shaft. the trex style head.



I hope you all know there is an upgrade kit for the CNC head. If you want to convert your v1 head to a v2 head.


I think im the only one posting about this heli now. LOL here is my HDX after the v2 head conversion and canopy change.

[helidirect]

Originally Posted by Pinecone

Hmm, maybe Compy 300 with Trex tail and new HD mini Trex head would be a great little heli.

I would think the trex tail is too big. With that big of tail blades you need much slower main tail gear ratio

Steve