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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 02-10-2011, 07:51 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helgeheli View Post
Turns out my lower frame mainmast bearing block was in upside down.......

Wait a second thought you said you had them installed the right way

Glad you got it taken care of tho
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:09 PM   #22 (permalink)
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LOL yea that was alot of bad one way action there.

Ah well you're all good now.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I fixed the outer race of the one-way bearing into the hub. I floated JB weld and deepeded the set screw seatsClick image for larger version

Name:	bearing4.jpg
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ID:	207440
Should be good to spool up tomorrow
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:25 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting the update. I'm sure it'll help somebody
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:12 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I fixed the outer race of the one-way bearing into the hub. I floated JB weld and deepeded the set screw seatsAttachment 207440
Should be good to spool up tomorrow
Thats a very cool fix! Nice job and good idea

Bob
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:17 PM   #26 (permalink)
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i just had to do this to my 700 too. you could see where the loctite had been and broke loose. it was far from enough. i have been flying mine since september with no issues tilll now. i was flying around like normal did a few loops to tic tocs and it went slipping away. so low power auto down and starting looking for the problem.

when i opened the case you could tell it got hot you could smell burned grease or something of that nature. the ring poped out with not tools just wiggled it a bit and out it came.

i covered every bit that i could with green loctite ( I can't remember the number) and also ground a flat spot and added a set screw. the set screw alone was enough to fix it but im sure with both it won't move anymore.

running edge FBL 713mm blades 5035-560 12t pinion align cnc straight cut gear and 5000mah packs. between the 9000watt peaks and the 11+ pounds i think it was enough to do it. motor comes down at like 220 degree's after 4:30 at 2000rpm in 60 degree ambient.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:21 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Yep this happened to me last week. Set screw but did not flat spot the sleeve, tried to drill it, but very hard. Should have broken out the dremel. Ohh well, if it happens again will take a dremel to the sleeve.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:42 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I think this might be happening to me, in a nitro 3G. What do you guys think?

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvxGMNgwq0I[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urxldhxD8kc[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fghKvja0Ruc[/ame]
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:25 PM   #29 (permalink)
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That's freewheeling pretty good but the sleeve could certainly be culprit. I spun my 3rd sleeve tonight. I'm going to set screw extremes tomorrow. spinning sleeves are getting old for me.
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:58 PM   #30 (permalink)
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it only takes a few minutes to re loctite the one way sleeve and add a set screw. not going to hurt anything to do it. plus it really eliminates a possibility of failure in the future. i figured this would be mostly isolated to electrics since they seem to have more a kick when you load it up.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:05 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I posted about this once before and might be well worth a look for you. I had my one way let go on my 700N and upon disassembly I found that it was an aluminum hub with a steel race that the bearing sat in. The race had maybe two drops of green loctite on it holding it to the aluminum which had come loose.

I cleaned the race and gear hub with rubbing alcohol and then used the green loctite supplied in the kit and applied a thin layer all around the steel race then reinstalled it in the aluminum hub. It has never slipped again and didnt cost a penny to fix.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:53 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I posted about this once before and might be well worth a look for you. I had my one way let go on my 700N and upon disassembly I found that it was an aluminum hub with a steel race that the bearing sat in. The race had maybe two drops of green loctite on it holding it to the aluminum which had come loose.

I cleaned the race and gear hub with rubbing alcohol and then used the green loctite supplied in the kit and applied a thin layer all around the steel race then reinstalled it in the aluminum hub. It has never slipped again and didnt cost a penny to fix.
That's precisely the problem discussed in this thread. Loctite alone isn't working for me. At least not the align kit green stuff. They still spin. I'm using loctite brand green later and tapping at least 2 set screws in the hub. I'll try to post a picture later but I only have my phone camera with me.
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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....... I'm using loctite brand green ........
their are a few different types of green loctight, one for removable bearing applications and loose tolerances, the other for high tolerance parts that will be cylindrically welded together forever with the stuff...... so check your number against the sight, could be the problem.
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Old 04-08-2011, 01:53 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I have been using the green stuff from align that comes with the kits, I now have in hand green permatex high strength sleeve retainer. Which I'm aware is different than the green penetrating thread lock.
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Old 04-08-2011, 02:12 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I have been using the green stuff from align that comes with the kits, I now have in hand green permatex high strength sleeve retainer. Which I'm aware is different than the green penetrating thread lock.
Yeah it must be embarrassing when a gasser outpowers a 700e
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Old 04-08-2011, 04:18 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Thanks Tom, lol! Just worry about how your going to get that overweight and out of shape trex 500 to keep up with my lean mean protos
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:25 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Thanks Tom, lol! Just worry about how your going to get that overweight and out of shape trex 500 to keep up with my lean mean protos
He does not have to keep up... Just wait till the Protos destroys itself in the air..
Kidding...heard good things about Protos
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:13 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Fastflyer and I have been doing alot of trash talking each others 500's lately but as we all know the protos is the better heli. So back to owb sleeves. Interesting discovery for me tonight. I spun two sleeves in stock hubs lately. After hub disassembly I could remove the sleeves almost by hand so that's the failed component. I cleaned, scuffed, and threadlocked one of them back together and thought that I'd spun that one yesterday as I autoed down and could still see the motor spinning. What I missed was that the main gear was not spinning this time as it was previously. I discovered my error when to my surprise this sleeve would not budge to prepare it for set screws. I put it back together and saw the motor still spinning on spool up. This was do to the pinion spinning on the motor shaft. So the lesson is that either problem exhibits similar symptoms so both should be checked. I got burned by assuming that this was a reoccurring problem and I overlooked other possibilities. Hopefully I can fly it tomorrow and confirm the heli is fixed. Right after I blow the fins off a trex 500 with a protos
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:19 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Mine spun the gun today, was testing the Mikado Vbar Bailout feature, this rocks btw...and low behold I thought something failed in ESC or my setup of the gov feature...

Upon looking closer at home, sure enough the sleeve spun itself in the AH alu chamber,,, WHY has Align themselves not properly fixed this at a factory level yet?????


Mine is now re loctited and YES a 3mm setscrew etc.....
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:38 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Building a new 700e, is the consensus to go ahead and pin while I am building or just see if it holds? As I type this I am telling myself I will likely just do it anyway.
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