Here is my mcpx brushless conversion with pics ,still video and flight video

[dizzymarkus]

Wheres everyone getting the KBDD main blades?

-- thanks alot,
Markus

[tntburnett]

Originally Posted by JAM3X

With the gws pinion that you used, did you have to enlongate or make coustom motor mounting holes? or did the pinion just mesh, with the novus cp brushless screwed into the stock holes on the frame? What I am asking is with your gws pinion were you able mount the motor with the stock frame holes, or did you have to modify to make it mesh correctly?

It meshed fine. All I done was cut tgw flat part off of the frame where the old motor along with the brace

Have a blessed week
Isaac

Sent from my DROIDX

[RedOctobyr]

So I finally joined the BL club today I've learned so much from everyone's shared info that I had to post some of my own.

Setup:
HP05S
XP-7A
thesteve (the normal one)
8T pinion (broke)
9T GWS pinion (worked)

First off, if some of you folks can do this quickly, that's awesome. It took me a while to get everything done properly. But it seems worth it so far!

I soldered thesteve's yellow wire to the resistor on the 3-in-1. Used a 0.5mm (0.020") radius tip and a magnifier. Laying the wire flat, flush with the board, finally helped a lot.

Direct-soldered the ESC to the 3-in-1's battery terminals, did thesteve the same way.

I had drilled out a stock 8T pinion to 1.5mm on a lathe, so I was able to keep the hole very well centered. Even with that, it had barely any metal left. I slid it onto the shaft, CA'd it in place, and let it dry. When I tried it, it lasted about 10 seconds, then broke. So I used my 9T GWS pinion. That was a nice snug press fit onto the shaft. Very carefully pressed it on with my vise, did not use any CA.

I found the motor mesh to be fine with the 8T pinion. But with 9T, I could not even install the motor. Opened the holes to 1.5mm, and that helped. I may open them just a bit more, since I still don't have a gap, even after a few batteries.

I'm sure I have too much heatshrink, excess wire, etc. I don't have a scale yet, but it doesn't feel like it lost weight, anyways. I did use some 1mm CF to reinforce the front canopy pins, with thread & CA holding it to the pins. I know the tape in the picture looks stupid. I wanted to add some insulation to the motor wires, and hold thesteve to the ESC. And it was too late to add heatshrink

For the tail, I used a stock motor & blade. But I cut an extra-extended 7" (178mm) tail boom. Unsoldered the stock tail wires, and replaced them with 26AWG, 120SR-sized wires, which I soldered directly to the board (I left the tail plug in place on the board, in case I want it later). Little bits of heatshrink hold the wires to the boom.

I did not change any XP7A programming. Just set the throttle max and min. I get great throttle resolution through the whole range, as others observed. I did put a solder connection halfway through the ESC V+ wire, so I can remove & reconnect it, without having to solder to either board.

The headspeed is alarming/impressive Wow. Tried 80% max throttle initially, 60% pitch. Upped the pitch to 70%. In Normal mode, I was getting a fair bit of tail wag when making collective changes. I ended up raising my IU throttle to 100-100-90-100-100. Oddly, I found the tail holds very well in IU. But it still wags/lags in Normal. My current theory is that raising the collective loads the motor with pitch, as well as trying to accelerate. That starves the tail. Maybe?

I can pitch pump in IU, 100% throttle, and the tail holds fine. I got some blowout when I applied too much cyclic (100% DR) & collective. And twice on 1 particular battery, maybe that one's weak. So I think my tail is actually pretty good, for being free and fairly straightforward. It's not perfect, but it will certainly do for now. I was able to recover from the TBO each time, it never spun. May try a different tail rotor. Or eventually dual coreless, etc. And I think I'd like to try an 8T pinion.

But, it flies awesome The headspeed is pretty wild. I only got to fly a handful of batteries today, with the weather coming. I did observe that the Nanotech 300's got very warm, the hottest I've felt so far. Started with a 4:00 timer, then hit ESC LVC once, so took it down to 3:00, landing by 3:30. I will try the Hyperion 320's, once I solder on connectors.

[dna001]

Hi
You could try a bit shorter tail I think that one is a tad to long, that should stop some of the tail wag.


.

[WowHobbies]

Originally Posted by -kenny-

hey guys,
since wowhobbies is not responding to my emails (would be cool to order everything from the same site) I think I will go with this setup. (helimax novus cp)

How is the power of this motor? does it bog down? Also, what is the shaft diameter for the pinion?
Is the throttle response good without soldering an extra resistor?

Sorry for all the questions

Due to the massive amount of our incoming emails, spam filter isn't going to work perfectly. Please use Contact Us at the www.wowhobbies.com website for quickest response. Emails are replied within 2 business days, not including weekends, there is no exception. There are 3 persons answering emails at Wow, so we have an internal email distribution system that will address the type of service needed. All in all, you will always get a response, if not check your email filter, use your secondary email box just in case or you can call if you are located in the USA.

Jonathan
WowHobbies.com

[WowHobbies]

Watch this video below and you will know why the CO5 brushless kit makes the best indoor MCPX brushless heli. The motor power mix is just right for indoor in comparison to the best outdoor performer using the HP05 kit. HP05 has better climb out outdoor than the CO5 but it is a bit too much for indoor IMO. We carry both types of kit, so this is no bias opinion. If you can't decide which way to go CO5 or HP05, may be this will help, choose the right motor for the right job or get both if your budget allows, LOL.

The upgraded MCPX in this video below is equipped with this exact CO5 kit. http://www.wowhobbies.com/thesteveblsinglechannelconverter-3-1.aspx

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThoFf9MXciw[/ame]

Jonathan
WowHobbies.com

[s0laris]

those wow hobby conversion kits seem pricey.
does that replace the board with the current mcpx ? if so then it seems reasonable

[WowHobbies]

Originally Posted by s0laris

those wow hobby conversion kits seem pricey.
does that replace the board with the current mcpx ? if so then it seems reasonable

There are 2 ways to do this and we offer them both.
1. Cheaper way. You can build it yourself and we have the cheap components XP-7A (not XP-7A-3)-Buy it and program the ESC, the Steve standard-add resistor, tail assembly-buy carbon tube and cut it and key it so it doesn't twist then solder the motor, buy motor-install pinion. If you are a builder and have some experience, go for this less expensive way, if not go for the next option.

2. More expansive way. Buy the fully build and tested kit. Unfortunately, the volume isn't enough to integrete them in China so you are paying more for USA labor but it will be all done for you.

Jonathan
www.WowHobbies.com

[s0laris]

buying it from the places the OP suggested costs $55 total including the msr tail.

Was just curious.. I will go with the OP suggested setup. Thanks for the reply

[RedOctobyr]

Got to put some more time on my BL setup tonight. It's pretty awesome I do find that I can bog the blades if I try to do, say, a few flips in a row. Maybe the 9T pinion is too much for a consistent headspeed, maybe I need to try 8T.

However, I do want to give an update on my extra-extended tail. It held great tonight. Pitch pumps at 100% throttle in IU were fine, nice and steady. Even climbing high, going to full negative, plummeting & building speed, then full positive, held without trouble. Using 70% Pitch Travel Adjust. I think the wag I saw before was because the throttle % was also changing, in Normal. IU 100% throttle should be more of a worst-case, and it holds great in that.

I did get two tail swings during my flights, and I did get it to actually spin once (got too aggressive, too much at once), but I was able to recover each time. I'm not saying this is the perfect solution by any means, but it's working better than I expected. And, after 9 batteries back-to-back, the tail motor was only warm. Not even close to hot. That surprised me.

I am loathe to crash it, so it was largely FFF, circuits, flips, etc. I can't do impressive stuff.

[adroc3905]

Originally Posted by WowHobbies

The upgraded MCPX in this video below is equipped with this exact CO5 kit. http://www.wowhobbies.com/thesteveblsinglechannelconverter-3-1.aspx

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThoFf9MXciw

Jonathan
WowHobbies.com

What tail rotor blades are those pictured in the above link (black & red)? I would like to purchase to see if they make a difference from the stock 120SR tail rotor.

[GravityJunkie]

I believe they use Walkera/Novus tail blades:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...il-Rotor-Blade

Looks very similar, just doesn't have the white on it anymore. That's the blade I run and it works stellar.

[brianp6621]

Originally Posted by GravityJunkie

I believe they use Walkera/Novus tail blades:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...il-Rotor-Blade

Looks very similar, just doesn't have the white on it anymore. That's the blade I run and it works stellar.

Yes, specifically the 4#3B tail blades. The 4#3Q are larger and are white with the red tips.

[Dre414]

First of all thank you to all who have posted on this site as there is so much information here, I find something new each day.

I have finally learned how to fly enough (lite inverted hovering, flips, circuits, weak FRF but getting there) to commit to going BL. Although I am not an expert by any means I do want to develop my skills on this little guy and a simulator till I’m good enough to commit to the bigger birds. Since I suspect it will be some time till I buy new heli (and my wife allows me to drop the coin) I figured BL would be the way to go to have a powerful enough machine that I can fly anytime and not kill my bank fixing it if I crash.

Anyhow now that I have a HP05 and 9T on the way I’m concerned I may have a bit too much power and not enough battery life. I only fly outdoors which I understand is where the HP05 is better. Should I try a HP05/8T pinion combo, stick to the HP05/9T, or try and find a C05M/8T combo (which seems to be impossible to find in stock these days)?

I know this a loaded question and many have their own preferences but I’m not a 3D flyer (yet) and I figure the more time I’m in the air, the more practice I can get in.. or am I completely off and am better off sticking to my decision and buying a load of Batteries?

Anyone know where I can get a 1.5mm 8T pinion and where a C05M is in stock? Maybe Ill get both and try for myself.

Thanks again to all!!

[eightythree]

For what its worth stay stock for indoor flying. I fly mostly indoors with this lil guy- 3D in our shop, flips rolls huricanes circuits etc.. Just did a bl conversion to try since i have motors and speedys laying around from walkeras. One word RIDICULOUS! Its hard to keep smooth in a tight place unless ur a 3D pro freak.

In my opinion find a battery that will output more power/upgrade connectors.

One question.. How the heck are you guys getting good cg with the 120 motor on back?
I have my 325mah pack as far forward and its still super tail heavy.. Custom lipo tray??

[tntburnett]

Originally Posted by eightythree

For what its worth stay stock for indoor flying. I fly mostly indoors with this lil guy- 3D in our shop, flips rolls huricanes circuits etc.. Just did a bl conversion to try since i have motors and speedys laying around from walkeras. One word RIDICULOUS! Its hard to keep smooth in a tight place unless ur a 3D pro freak.

In my opinion find a battery that will output more power/upgrade connectors.

One question.. How the heck are you guys getting good cg with the 120 motor on back?
I have my 325mah pack as far forward and its still super tail heavy.. Custom lipo tray??

How long is ur tail boom
Make about 5 3/4 long
Sent from my DROIDX

[eightythree]

I can probably shorten it a small amount..even more with a smaller blade. thats next in line..

[RedOctobyr]

I am still using the stock tail motor on my BL setup. HP05S with a 9T pinion. I went to a 7" long tail boom, trying to make things easier on the motor. It's actually pretty good, even in pitch pumps, with 70% travel adjust, in IU at 100% throttle. Using 26AWG tail wires (120SR size), direct-soldered to the 3-in-1.

Today the tail was starting to not hold as well, and I could hear the tail motor "singing" at full bore sometimes. So I bent the tail rotor to add more cup/pitch to the blades. That helped.

Went home and cut down a 120SR tail rotor from the stock 2.5" or whatever it is, down to 2.0". Had to CA the center hole, then drill it out to make it fit on the stock tail motor shaft.

Tried it out, it works quite well. Pitch pumps are still fine, and I can give more extreme collective & cyclic inputs, and the tail still holds. Better than my stock tail rotor, certainly. The tail motor gets warmer during use, vs with the stock tail rotor. So it's working harder, but it's not even close to hot. And I really like the white tail rotor, it's easier to see Having taken off my tail fin, the tail doesn't always show up very well. It makes me think about coloring it with a red Sharpie or something, to make it even more visible.

I don't really notice wag problems or anything. It's still not perfect. I'm sure the 120SR motor, or dual coreless, are better. But for $2 or so, available locally, it's pretty easy to try out. And it's better than the stock rotor, even when just using the stock motor.

[questerng]

Hi,

I'm still running everything stock.. and always have a tail blow-out.. I'm sure is my poor cyclic management..

Do you think by lowering the pitch % will help..

I'm running

Normal mode
35-50-100
IU-1
0-50-100

thanks
quest

[s0laris]

Yes it will help