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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 11-15-2012, 06:41 AM   #81 (permalink)
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This is a very informative thread

I think this crack to the soldering on the board is probably what has happened to mine after the abuse that I’ve put it through!! Small space, doing every thing I'm no good at or haven't tried = Crash , Bang and Wallop

I will be putting some foam tape around a new board, but is anyone in the UK doing the same type of reflow work that Coredump and Mega Stumbler are doing? If not how much does it cost to have the receiver (and possibly other parts of the board) reflowed guys?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:09 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salsaketchup View Post
?.. is anyone in the UK doing the same type of reflow work that Coredump and Mega Stumbler are doing?
Ask toys2cars2toys, he might know. He's in Cumbra, UK. https://www.helifreak.com/member.php?u=91256
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:27 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Thanks I will give him a pm
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:55 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lje553 View Post
I can't get my nano to bind after a minor crash. Not sure if I should try to reflow it myself or try it get it fixed.
I'm having this issue also. Ugh. Reflow??? Here we go.

Actually I'm calling HH, this board hasn't worked right since I got it....

edit: they're replacing my board....
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Last edited by rdandy5875; 11-18-2012 at 02:32 PM..
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:16 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Mine occasionally doesn't bind with my Dx7 (dsm2 version). Reconnecting the lipo and starting the sequence again solves it.

Couple days ago I dropped the throttle trim from centre down three clicks in norm mode and haven't missed a bind since...haven't thoroughly tested but it seems to never have the issue now.

Amp
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:19 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw View Post
Mine occasionally doesn't bind with my Dx7 (dsm2 version). Reconnecting the lipo and starting the sequence again solves it.

Couple days ago I dropped the throttle trim from centre down three clicks in norm mode and haven't missed a bind since...haven't thoroughly tested but it seems to never have the issue now.

Amp
Same I went five clicks no more problems on DX8
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:52 AM   #87 (permalink)
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What about arming issues? My motors don't spool up, even though they do work (tested them with power to the leads).
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:08 PM   #88 (permalink)
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I crashed today and mine wont bind now. I must say though it has survived 100's of crashes while praticing, but still not happy i cant fly it haha
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:45 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Got a new board in, comped via warranty from HH, and it flies like a new heli. Actually much better than new. I think something was wrong with my original board from the factory.

I've got no power loss issues and very little tbo, almost none with the right batteries. Binds right up every time.

Still though I wrapped the board in a thin sparse foam, actually it's a thin filter for pc fans.

New board has the exact same v1.4, etc.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:21 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Default binding about half the time

Since new my nano has been binding about half the time on the average. My record is six tries to connect and bind. New battery. TX at least 2 meters away.
Sometimes it binds on the first try but rarely. Scores of flights and hundreds of crashes haven't changed this.
I hope it doesn't get worse.
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:13 PM   #91 (permalink)
 

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And what exactly is reflow?
Can a normal guy just experienced on soldering miniz motors do the reflow?
Or is a little more complicated then that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by coredump View Post
Yup, I recently take a look at two nano cpx board that confirm it is crashing
causing the binding problem. Receiver chip slightly separate from the board.
There are cracks show on the conformal coating around the receiver chip.

Under 10x microscope, see the crack on the lower right of the chip?



Under 50x for a better look of the cracks.



The good news is, reflow the receiver chip usually works very well for this
kind of the cracking problem. It is pretty much the same deal as mcpx.
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:57 PM   #92 (permalink)
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With no experience in surgery on these tiny chips and without the proper equipment you will NOT be succesfull.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:39 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Word
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:44 AM   #94 (permalink)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nytflyer View Post
With no experience in surgery on these tiny chips and without the proper equipment you will NOT be succesfull.
yep, these are even smaller then the miniz car boards... not for me!

does anyone know any shop or member that do this for a living? i pay!
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:56 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nytflyer View Post
With no experience in surgery on these tiny chips and without the proper equipment you will NOT be succesfull.
Can anyone recommend equipment to get started? I've looked at SMC/SMD stations on Amazon but would rather get advice from someone here.

I'm sure I'll be replacing boards in the future and look forward to at least trying to learn how to solder surface-mount.

Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:36 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Default Re: Anyone else having binding issues?

A good quality temperature controlled soldering iron. I have a Weller EC1002. And a good quality hot air rework station. I have a Weller WHA900 with some very fine tips. A lot of practice. There are many choices depending on how deep your pockets are.

I have only about 75% success which is why I do not do this for anyone but myself. Maybe someday.

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Old 01-26-2013, 10:53 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Default Re: Anyone else having binding issues?

Add me to the list. My nano started acting goofy on me. Surprisingly HH disappointed me and won't replace my board. Heli is 6 months old and has 15 flights on it. Guess to repair myself.

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Old 01-29-2013, 01:35 AM   #98 (permalink)
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After binding issues in a second Nano board (got a first one replaced by HH) I had put it onto the oven.

Removed battery cable before (the battery plug strap would melt, had already melt one at 80° C in another board) and the rubber from motor plugs and battery wire intrance.

7 minutes at 200° C (pre-heated), then let cool down.
Nothing melt, everything perfect (servo plugs, battery plugs, ...), only sealing of chip not crystal clear anymore, but little brown like caramel.

Resoldered battery wires afterwards, and:
Everything perfect!
No binding problems anymore - board works perfectly again (now about 30 batteries).

Try it, no risk, no fun!

Wanted to resolder the pins of the chips first, but removing the sealing and not knowing how to do this easily made my trying the oven-method.
Its good and easy (also for people not good in soldering).

Walter
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:55 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donaldsneffe View Post
After binding issues in a second Nano board (got a first one replaced by HH) I had put it onto the oven.

Removed battery cable before (the battery plug strap would melt, had already melt one at 80° C in another board) and the rubber from motor plugs and battery wire intrance.

7 minutes at 200° C (pre-heated), then let cool down.
Nothing melt, everything perfect (servo plugs, battery plugs, ...), only sealing of chip not crystal clear anymore, but little brown like caramel.

Resoldered battery wires afterwards, and:
Everything perfect!
No binding problems anymore - board works perfectly again (now about 30 batteries).

Try it, no risk, no fun!

Wanted to resolder the pins of the chips first, but removing the sealing and not knowing how to do this easily made my trying the oven-method.
Its good and easy (also for people not good in soldering).

Walter
I've repaired boards before, but this seems funnier. I might give this a try!

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Old 01-29-2013, 10:29 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donaldsneffe View Post
Nothing melt, everything perfect (servo plugs, battery plugs, ...)
You can wrap those parts in some aluminum foil. This way, they get less heat, reducing the risk of deforming them (or with the same risk you can go for longer time or higher temperature)

Done this when i used Fimo (a kind of modelling mass, needs 110° C for 30 minutes to cure) and didn't want some plastic parts to deform. I think it will also work on the plugs, wires and anything else that should not get to hot.

Felice
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