How much different is this going to be than my stretched Mini P 450

[tactiks]

well i saw the warp the other day at nankin. and a few reasons y its a lil heavier is because the main and tail blade grips are super beefy. the frame on the 360 is a bit thicker as well. back tho the grips, i swear they r the size of 500-550 sized grips.

[ScotY]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

My 6s stretch Mini P is 890 grams rtf with canopy, sab's, ds95s all around, TP 6s 1300 65c , mini vbar with hobbywing sensor, no shortened wires, and with some of the aluminum upgrades.

No friends will be made saying the warp is better than the mini p in any way, shape or form, its a tall order to fill!

Dylan is the man, but I have to comment a bit...

The reasons I never got a Mini Protos are:
Belt drive system - autos are out of the question for my skill level, one way bearing on motor shaft = bad idea
Kind of a lot of plastic (and I actually LIKE plastic where appropriate)
Tall head block that looks like it will bend on every crash (at least my kind of crashes)

The design features of the Warp that make a big difference to ME are:
Larger OD tail output shaft - much easier to keep things smooth yet minimize slop (someone finally figured that out)
No boom supports - hate them on small helicopters
Belt drive system - autos are a reality (should be easy for an aftermarket vendor to design a slipper drive for driven tail...hint, hint)
Shorter main shaft/head design - theoretical better performance
Simpler head block - less machining steps hopefully equals lower replacement cost
Motor placement and frame design - looks like it will allow more variance in battery weight and still CG
Bonus points for running without the shakes at low rpm and design style

The one thing I don't particularly care for about the Warp (but it's likely not a safety concern) is the use of carbon for the blade grips. It would seem to me that fatigue from crashes may be difficult to spot, leading to a possible future failure. The Warp may in fact weigh more but, in my opinion, they put the weight in the right places.

[DominicD]

The Furion 450 had the same concerns about the CF blade grips when it first came out, no problems ever manifested itself.

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by ScotY

Dylan is the man, but I have to comment a bit...

The reasons I never got a Mini Protos are:
Belt drive system - autos are out of the question for my skill level, one way bearing on motor shaft = bad idea
Kind of a lot of plastic (and I actually LIKE plastic where appropriate)
Tall head block that looks like it will bend on every crash (at least my kind of crashes)

The design features of the Warp that make a big difference to ME are:
Larger OD tail output shaft - much easier to keep things smooth yet minimize slop (someone finally figured that out)
No boom supports - hate them on small helicopters
Belt drive system - autos are a reality (should be easy for an aftermarket vendor to design a slipper drive for driven tail...hint, hint)
Shorter main shaft/head design - theoretical better performance
Simpler head block - less machining steps hopefully equals lower replacement cost
Motor placement and frame design - looks like it will allow more variance in battery weight and still CG
Bonus points for running without the shakes at low rpm and design style

The one thing I don't particularly care for about the Warp (but it's likely not a safety concern) is the use of carbon for the blade grips. It would seem to me that fatigue from crashes may be difficult to spot, leading to a possible future failure. The Warp may in fact weigh more but, in my opinion, they put the weight in the right places.

Couple of things...

Mini Protos has 6mm main, 4mm tail shafts, same as warp. Low Fbl head block is VERY stout on the mini, looking closer at the warp hub it looks like a 700 size heli tail hub, hoefully its cheap, along with the dfc links because both will most likely bend/break in a crash, even if the carbon on the blade grips gives way. I hope the head block is steel on the warp, or the blade grip bolts thread into the main shaft, not much meat on that hub!

I have had 2 bad crashes with the mini, both broke 1 blade grip.

head block, main and feathering shafts survived. Cost to fix minus new main blades was around $20

I do like the big boom, not thrilled about double belts/non driven tail.
Havent heard about problems with the one way on the pinion, I think its simple and elegant, and the idler pulley design lets you run the belt pretty loose.

Msh plastic is very nice, strong light and stiff, and has threaded aluminun inserts molded in, so there are only a few screws that thread into plastic, in non critical places.

Minicopter tried not having boom supports on the Diabolo but ended up with them because of some vibes during hard 3d, and they generally let you run a higher tail gain, which is never a bad thing.

Dylan

[snemi00]

I have to agree with Dylan.
My mini Protos stretch on 6s is an awesome machine and extremely durable. Not much to complain about to be honest.

This class of machine has the power and feel of a larger machine in a nice sized package.

I look forward to trying out a Warp to compare it to. If it's equal or better then it will be a winner for sure!

[desertstalker]

Originally Posted by ScotY

Dylan is the man, but I have to comment a bit...

The reasons I never got a Mini Protos are:
Belt drive system - autos are out of the question for my skill level, one way bearing on motor shaft = bad idea
Kind of a lot of plastic (and I actually LIKE plastic where appropriate)
Tall head block that looks like it will bend on every crash (at least my kind of crashes)

The Mini P autos fine (for a 450) you just need some heavier blades (stock SAB ones are incredibly light). You go down scary fast though . The warp will only be able to auto in FF as the tail is not driven, try to come in straight down and the tail will spin.

Never seen a report of a broken head block, the jesus bolt in the head or main gear snaps first. Or the composite grip goes.

[Mixmaster Pilot]

This year I've been ending all my flights on my 450 with an auto from 50 foot or so up and really have no fears with them, neither the Mini proto's or Warp hold any concerns regarding auto's.

Originally Posted by desertstalker

TYou go down scary fast though . The warp will only be able to auto in FF as the tail is not driven, try to come in straight down and the tail will spin.

So what if you are spinning with zero speed? It wouldn't be a wild spin, just a very slow one so I can't see an issue, and unless it's an emergency, you wouldn't auto a 450 straight down all the way to the ground anyway.

I like the fact the tail isn't driven in an auto, I can auto in some pretty high soft grass and not have it wrap around the tail shaft.

[desertstalker]

Originally Posted by Mixmaster Pilot

I like the fact the tail isn't driven in an auto, I can auto in some pretty high soft grass and not have it wrap around the tail shaft.

If I am coming down in thick grass I kill the HS before impact, let the heli drop the last half meter, grass catches heli, no damage.