Compass-USA Sponsored Warp 360 Build Thread

[Jeff_Barrett]

TIP: I use Marine Goop between the canopy mount insert and the canopy as well. Help prevent cracking and relieves stress at the 2 screws holding it on.

Keep up the awesome work on this thread, Scott!!

[203killer1]

whats marine goop

[ochants76]

Originally Posted by 203killer1

whats marine goop

waterproof goop...

[JCLs]

Shoegoo is a must. Also used on upper inside of skids between frame and skids as insurance. My skids could be unseated too easily. Based on tips above I took out screws, ground a little off, and added a washer and could tell skids mounted much better. No doubt a hard landing will break skids before they pop off whick is a delicate trade off.

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by 203killer1

whats marine goop

A helicopter enthusiasts duct tape ....

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ag_a...es_epoxies.htm

[Rob43]

Just don't use this one on your SKIDS...

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/antiskid_ap_btt.htm



Hahahahah!

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Rob43

Just don't use this one on your SKIDS...

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/antiskid_ap_btt.htm



Hahahahah!

LMAO!!!!!

Scott

[Luigi_tuga]

Nice catch

[Stevemech]

Originally Posted by Jeff_Barrett

TIP: I use Marine Goop between the canopy mount insert and the canopy as well. Help prevent cracking and relieves stress at the 2 screws holding it on.

Keep up the awesome work on this thread, Scott!!

I used a piece if 3m 4010 gyro tape between and left the screws not tight.It made the canopy easier to install because of the flexiblilty.
Steve

[radu7]

Originally Posted by Stevemech

I used a piece if 3m 4010 gyro tape between and left the screws not tight.It made the canopy easier to install because of the flexiblilty.
Steve

I like that idea as I have an aversion to gluing stuff that I may want to remove later, but do you think the screws not being tight and the small amount of play that the foam tape allows will cause the holes in the canopy to wear/enlarge over time due to friction? I guess it wouldn't matter if the tape is holding everything together.

[JCLs]

Shoegoo is tough to get off but it does come off. As I am still way low on learning curve and crash at too regular of intervals, I have a lot of experience with the stuff!!!

On the iPad again,
JCL

[radu7]

Originally Posted by JCLs

Shoegoo is tough to get off but it does come off. As I am still way low on learning curve and crash at too regular of intervals, I have a lot of experience with the stuff!!!

On the iPad again,
JCL

I hear you! I started using some stuff called 'Welder' contact adhesive that I had laying around. Works great for gluing broken skids and plastic frames when I got tired of shelling out for new ones. It's extremely tenacious though. One thing I've noticed is that flying rc helis, which I haven't been doing for very long, will quickly cure a person of wanting to have everything look new all the time... ain't gonna happen.

[JCLs]

Go to fun fly, show off new canopy, fly at home field with one that may stay together and is heavily patched! Nooo, not me!!!

[dunkonu23]

Up next, we're going to tighten the belts and finish up the wiring job.



Since we tightened the boom clamp screws earlier to make sure the boom wouldn't move, we now need to loosen the bolts so the boom can slide freely but not flop around.



Also, loosen all the screws for the belt tensioner and the motor mount. Don't take the screws out but just make them loose enough so the motor mount/belt tensioner combination can slide freely in the slots cut in the frame. Earlier, we made sure the combination could slide. If now it doesn't slide, you will need to remove the screws and lightly file the frame slots in which the screws reside.



Next, pull back on the motor while you tighten one of the motor mount screws. Observe the main drive belt tension. After tightening all the screws my belt has about 2-4 mm of flex inward.



Next remove one screw for either the belt tensioner or the motor mount. Reinstall that screw with thread locker. Repeat this for the seven remaining screws. After you're done, recheck the main drive belt tension--it should be identical as tested earlier. If not, you will need to repeat the prior steps.



At this point there may be slack in the tail drive belt. The purpose of this step is to remove the slack and put tension on the tail drive belt. The first thing to do is tighten the boom block clamp bolts until there is tension on the boom as you put the boom outward and it does not return to its original position. Pull the boom outward until the tail drive belt is tight with about 2-3 mm of deflection (depending on where you push on the belt and how hard you push).

If the boom slips when you stop pulling, simply tighten the screws just a little more and repeat this step. I had to do it two times.



Once the boom stops slipping and the tail drive belt keeps its tension, you can tighten the bolts. Make sure you tighten them evenly in a crossing fashion. You do not need to really crank down on these bolts. Too tight and you may damage the boom.



This is the underside of the belt tensioner showing the gap between it and the boom. There is parallax in this picture--the real distance is approximately 3mm between the end of the boom and the belt tensioner. I am not too worried about this as I will likely have to redo belt tension once the helicopter has flown a couple of times. Typically, belts stretch some then settle on their final length.



Final wiring. The first thing I did was plug all servo/throttle leads into the AR7200BX. Next, I cut a piece of Scotch 4011, cleaned the bottom of the AR7200BX with alcohol, and put the 4011 on the bottom of the AR7200BX .



I don't really trust my ability to eyeball when something is perpendicular to the main shaft, so I always find some way to borrow a Mr. Mel tip. Mr. Mel uses a lego block to make sure flybarless sensors are installed properly. The challenge here is to find something that will hold its shape when you press on it, then be able to be held in place while you install your sensor.

In my case, I used my caliper box. I rested one side of the box against the aileron and pitch servo screws, removed the backing tape from the 4011, then pushed the AR7200BX against the box while I slid the AR7200BX down onto the frame. Even though its not critical for it to be centered in the frame, mine is centered.



Next, I positioned the AR7200BX antennae. I positioned the short antenna so it faced forward, then looped the long antennae around the AR7200BX and slid it through a wire keeper. I used Goop to make sure the long antenna does not slide out of the wire keeper in flight. Note that I will likely bend one antenna vertical.



Next up, I looped a piece of velcro around the motor leads and the elevator servo lead. I cut the velcro then ran one tie wrap through the frame, lower bearing block and back up between the frame and the main drive pulley.



This is a top picture showing the wiring. I'll use Goop on the leads attached to the AR7200BX so they don't fall out during flight. Other folks may like hot glue. Some may use 4011. Whatever you use, use something as its important to keep the wires firmly in place.



This shows the final left side frame wiring. As I mentioned earlier, the rudder servo lead needed to run on the outside of the frame unless I used an extension. I taped the lead to the top of the servo, then used a piece of 4011 to hold the lead to the frame. Also, you can see the position of the tie wrap over the velcro strip I used to bundle the motor leads and the elevator servo lead as they traversed the frame.

Next up, we'll tackle basic setup. That likely won't happen until Monday as I have family obligations throughout the weekend. We're almost done!

Scott

[NewR]

One draw back of having the main and tail tensioner pulleys on the same mount is that the next time the belts loosen, the tensioner mount has to be pull back to tighten the main belt, in that process the tail belt is loosen more instead. To tighten the tail belt, the boom has to to be pulled out and moved back. Then the tail control rod would be all out of wack unless it is lenghten exactly the same amount. To be sure that they don't bind, the limits have to be set again. I wish tail and main tensioner pulleys are separate so that they can independtly adjusted without having to move the boom.

[Bob O]

I hear ya there.

You can make them separate by cutting the main shaft or by removing the counter bearing. I've decided against doing either of those things as I don't believe the tail belt pulley block would be strong enough on it's own due to the very thin CF strips it's mounting screws clamp it to. You can easily distort this part of the frame by tightening the screws too much.

[heathy]

I have a cunning plan with ref to the canopy and modding to stop cracking. It's called crash and buy a new one. Always works a treat

[dunkonu23]

LMAO, Heathy!

Scott

[Rob43]

We will also need to be careful with adjusting the motor drive belt tension, as the guide roller assembly will need to move with it due to the counter bearing being integrated. We saw the shaft fracture reported in the other thread, which I believe would be caused by strain from the counter bearing assembly alignment to the motor. I doubt if it would take much - very minute - misalignment to cause a fracture - I think the guide roller can be aligned well enough to get the motor shaft into the counter bearing, but still be cocked enough to cause strain.

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Rob43

We will also need to be careful with adjusting the motor drive belt tension, as the guide roller assembly will need to move with it due to the counter bearing being integrated. We saw the shaft fracture reported in the other thread, which I believe would be caused by strain from the counter bearing assembly alignment to the motor. I doubt if it would take much - very minute - misalignment to cause a fracture - I think the guide roller can be aligned well enough to get the motor shaft into the counter bearing, but still be cocked enough to cause strain.

This is just one reason why it is important that the motor and pulley/counter bearing blocks slide as one. It is critical to check this before you fly. If the motor and counter bearing blocks do not slide freely, users MUST lightly file the slots until both slide freely and as one!

Scott