Why use the Z-RC insulator?

[cbergen]

Had an engine in from a customer for an unrelated problem, but upon inspection of the insulator, here's what we found,

This is the bottom or the side facing the engine.



This is the view from the side, look at the brass bushings......





This is the end view, look at the twist....





This is caused by overtightening the bolts holding the insulator to the engine, then overtightening the bolts that hold the carb to the isolator.

The cure?



The Z-RC Insulator, available from us at Bergen R/C, or other fine retailers!

More info available here, https://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=11799 or at http://www.z-rc.com/

Instructions available here, https://www.helifreak.com//files/z-rc_adapter_rev3.pdf

[Brady Longmore]

For you new owners,

I bought one last summer and was able to install it easy in just a few minutes, and I'm a newbie that had no clue what I was doing. Engine purrs.

[rccardude04]

I read this and checked out the site, then decided it was worth the minimal price in comparison to the cost of a new engine. Plus it adds a little bling.
Too bad they don't offer it in Bergen Gold
By the way, mine was warped during the building process. I wasn't really aware you weren't supposed to tighten these much, and when I pulled it off to install the Z-RC unit, it was certainly twisted. No doubt this saved me some headache already
-Eric

[ErichF]

Word of caution when using this carb block...

After running our new Observer EB for about 10 minutes, the engine just shut off. The carb bolts had loosened, and the carb was barely hanging on.

The two nylon seals on the block get soft when the engine warms up, and you have to shut down and retighten the carb bolts while it's hot. Once you do that the first time, they stay nice and tight.

[rccardude04]

Good call! Thanks. I'll remember that (Or try to anyway)
-Eric

[srhammett]

Chris, have you noticed that the links in your first post aren't working?

Are there instructions for installing the Z-RC that we be using?

Thanks,

Stu

[Pinecone]

BTW, B H Hanson has his own aluminum insulator. And his is cheaper.

[radio]

Originally Posted by srhammett

Chris, have you noticed that the links in your first post aren't working?

Are there instructions for installing the Z-RC that we be using?

Thanks,

Stu

srhammett,
try this link. Not sure if it's what your looking for.

http://www.z-rc.com/instructionsCarbInsulator.pdf

[cbergen]

Thanks radio, the instructions used to be up, but I think a server reset or change caused the lost links and pics.

[sbaldus]

Do the Hanson motors come with this upgrade already in place?

Originally Posted by Pinecone

BTW, B H Hanson has his own aluminum insulator. And his is cheaper.

[cbergen]

NO, it is an Extra option. It's cheaper IF you order it WITH an engine.

[sbaldus]

Wish I would've know that before I ordered the engine.

Hey Chris ... I just ordered the Intrepid EB yesterday, can you add this option to my order?

Originally Posted by cbergen

NO, it is an Extra option. It's cheaper IF you order it WITH an engine.

[tott]

Are there any current links to the install instructions ?

Thanks,
JASON

[2SX1]

Originally Posted by tott

Are there any current links to the install instructions ?

It's been a few years and surely by now you've found the instructions, but hopefully by posting this again it helps someone.

[2SX1]

Now for my question--

The Z-RC website has been down for a while. I might assume their shop is now closed.
But, a number of Z-RC insulators still hang around at some online shops but in limited supply.

It appears engine modifiers like BH Hanson and TRM offer their own versions of the carb insulator blocks.
I can't speak for the TRM block as I've never seen one, but the Hanson block has a smooth, level seating surface as opposed to the Z-RC seating surface which has a raised edge that is designed to make a slight depression in the teflon gasket, supposedly there to make a better seal.

I've read the Z-RC installation instructions and they state to NOT use paper gaskets in the installation.
The BH Hanson engine that I own comes with the insulator pre-installed with a paper gasket between the insulator and the engine.
We seem to have a difference in opinions here between Z-RC and Hanson. So do we use paper or no paper?

For sure the Hanson insulator and the Z-rc insulator will effectively do the same thing, but is one necessarily better than the other?
A better question would be-- If you own ONE EACH of the Z-rc and BH Hanson insulators, and could only install one on your helicopter, which would you install?

[cbergen]

The raised edge doesn't make any depression in the ZRC, it actually surrounds the teflon gasket, keeping it from oozing out under pressure.

To be clear, I'm talking about the side that bolts to the cylinder.

The purpose of this insulator is to keep the cylinder heat from getting to the carb, causing vapor lock. The stock insulator is a phenolic item, makes a great insulator. The aluminum insulator block, well...Not such a great insulator...

Hence the use of the teflon gaskets.

[2SX1]

I'm talking about the slightly raised surface on the carb-side face of the insulator block. The instructions even mention that a properly seated insulator block will leave an impression in the teflon gaskets. You can see the raised portion in the attached picture.

Now the BH Hanson insulator (Not the stock Zenoah insulator) is smooth and flat on both sides of the block. It does not have a lip on the backside nor does it have a raised section on the carb side. It's just flat.

[cbergen]

You are absolutely correct, except that it is not an edge...as posted initially. It is a raised area on the carb side of the block, which is why I clarified which side I was referring to.

Myself, I prefer the original over the copy from Hanson or QWW, but that's probably just a personal thing.

And as of about 3 months ago, we are still ordering these blocks from Z-RC. I have some black ones left, need to order more blue and red ones.