Cross Roads with new build

[cobalt220]

So the bug has bit me hard!

I have a stock 300x that I have not flown yet. I did the bearing mod and landing gear mod and just got the lynx frame stiffener to add as well. I originally set out to upgrade some of the major stuff, new motor, one way main gear blades, 450 tail grip.

I really wanted to build a kit, so instead of buying a kit to build, I bought all the parts I needed to build a second 300x.

I started with a MicroHeli frame and then continued to progress from there with a mix of stock blade parts, some lynx parts and some MH parts. I am pleased with myself for having a second bird, that is nearly ready to fly. Two things I still need, a tail servo and a flybarless unit.

My cyclic servos are Hitec 5065's.

My desire is to get into a 500 size bird in the future. One concept was to purchase the Align Trex 500 combo and use the 3GX from that in the second 300x. The idea was that I could use the stock 300x as my Nano graduation machine, then move to the custom build and then eventually to the 500. I had the thought of harvesting the BeastX from the original 300 and using it in the 500, when I feel I am ready to fly it.

The other concept was to purchase a second flybarless unit to install in the custom 300 and then I could have two 300's that are airworthy. That would save me the $$ of purchasing the 500 kit, but not sure if that is a great idea. The combo kit is about $650 while the flybarless is $225 or so.
If I go the route of second flybarless, what flybarless should I consider?

The final component is the tail servo. I originally picked up an Align DS525M. It seems too big and too heavy for this build. The plus side to using that servo, is that I would have a backup servo available for the Trex 500, if I go that route.

I have been doing a ton of reading on hear and all across the internet (happy to have something to keep me busy through all this crappy weather). I value the input from all of you guys, as you have been down this road before.

Thanks

[sn00p]

Try purchasing a robird, Bigaloe, zyx or turnigy 3-dh fbl system for a fraction of the price.... and i think it should have been a 415 not the 425 you purchased... Lives and learns

[nartac]

Originally Posted by sn00p

Try purchasing a robird, Bigaloe, zyx or turnigy 3-dh fbl system for a fraction of the price.... and i think it should have been a 415 not the 425 you purchased... Lives and learns

+1. If you do want to spend $200+ on a FBL unit though, consider Vbar or iKon. They are much better than beastx IMHO.

that 525 servo is way too big for 300x. For around $25 or less, get the TGY 306 or KST 215. No other servo that has equivalent speed and torque for that amount of money. No need to get MKS 95i at $80 even though I have 3 on both of my 450 pro and T250. But it does weigh a little more than most of other servos though but they keep my tail solid with high speed tail first hurricane

[eltreato]

I just put a KST115 on the tail of my 450x. Originally it was meant for the 300x, but the 450's stocker was likely to die first. Doublech suggested. the servo to me, last night I did my first hover in the parkade and the new servo is extremely locked in and slop free. The 115 is a few bucks cheaper than the 215 and only supports 6v which is just fine for this application.

[cobalt220]

Thank You Nartac for turning me on to the Ikon. I ordered it from HD this morning, I also ordered and Align DS420 for the tail servo.

My build is nearly done. I am as far as I can go without having the tail servo and the flybarless.

I liked what I found about the Ikon and its self level feature. I also found the Demon, but could not justify spending that much $$$$.

I am looking forward to the configuration and setup of the Ikon.

HD was out of stock on the bluetooth unit to connect to the Ikon, so I ordered that on Ebay.

One thing I was wondering, can a simple extension cable be added to the Ikon, instead of the bluetooth. I envision a cable to would simply provide for a different location for the USB access to the Ikon.

From what I have read, once its mounted, the USB is not accessible. I have a MH frame and planned on mounting it on the rear upper mounting location.

[Nelsonisms]

I never noticed that about the iKon. That is kind of a wacky place to put the USB port. I can't think of too many installations where it would be highly accessible without mounting it sideways or backwards. A much better location is on the top of the unit like the Mini VBar.

I guess you'd need a really short USB extension cable to run an extender. So I wonder if it could just be mounted backwards so the USB port is toward the rear? It would just be a pain to plug/unplug the servos though.

[chuteopn]

I had the same problem. I mounted my Ikon on the lower shelf with the Lynx CF frame.
I got the straight extension just so i didn't have to screw around with fishing the Ikon cable in to program.
USB 2.0 Micro-B Extensions

Its stiff and alot easier to connect. They make all different angled ones, maybe you could get one to work on the MH frame.
I also read on the MSH Brain forum that some people were having problems with setting up the SL with BT.
I do not know for a fact if this is true. I didn't want to take any chances, so I set mine up with cable.
Hope this helps

[P.I.Engineer]

i tried robird on my 300x, i couldn't get it to feel right. I moved my ikon from my 500 onto my 300x and couldn't be happier. Ikon's fly really good.

Also, don't bother with the usb, get the bluetooth for it, then you can turn at the field from you phone. I bluetooth from my computer to my ikons as well.

[Nelsonisms]

Originally Posted by chuteopn

I had the same problem. I mounted my Ikon on the lower shelf with the Lynx CF frame.
I got the straight extension just so i didn't have to screw around with fishing the Ikon cable in to program.
USB 2.0 Micro-B Extensions

That's a cool site. I love how they let you choose different orientations for the plugs. I might just have to get one of these for my Mini V. I can get the plug in there on the X5, but I have to use some forceps to insert it inside the frames. One of these would make it so much more elegant. Thanks.

[chuteopn]

P.I. did you have any problems setting the Sl with BT and have it recover correctly?
I have a BT module that i will install once the bird is finished.
It will be nice to make changes at the field without lugging a laptop around.

[chuteopn]

Originally Posted by Nelsonisms

That's a cool site. I love how they let you choose different orientations for the plugs. I might just have to get one of these for my Mini V. I can get the plug in there on the X5, but I have to use some forceps to insert it inside the frames. One of these would make it so much more elegant. Thanks.

Nelson, i have an angled down one i got just to try, but didn't work for me when i moved the Ikon to lower support.
Its yours if you can use it.

USB 2.0 Down Angled

[Nelsonisms]

Originally Posted by chuteopn

Nelson, i have an angled down one i got just to try, but didn't work for me when i moved the Ikon to lower support.
Its yours if you can use it.

USB 2.0 Down Angled

I really appreciate the gesture, but I can't use that one. I need the one with the "Mini B" plug instead of the "Micro B". Thanks a lot though. That's super cool of you to offer.

[P.I.Engineer]

ive never used sl on any of my helis. i think sl will be tough on the 300x b/c its so small and doesnt have any mass to dampen the vibes out.

[cobalt220]

Well I have been a busy person over the last few days. The new tail servo and the Ikon have been installed.
I have been getting a great education on the Ikon setup, including my first crack at leveling the swashplate and setting the pitch at zero.

All seems in order after some trial and error and much internet research.

The last item I need to tackle is configuring the governor.
The ESC is a Castle Phoenix 25 and the motor is a Scorpian 2208-24. I picked up a Specktrum RPM sensor that I plan on soldering to the ESC.
I still have more research and self education to do on configuring the governor on the Ikon setup screen.

I also am using a single Spectrum Satellite. Unless I am in need of a second, I planned on using just one. Please let me know if this is a poor idea.
I am also in need of some advise on what to do about the mile of cable that came with the Satellite. Are there shorter Specktrum cables available, or is there a different way to handle this?

I have been really enjoying this and look forward to warm weather and no more snow!!!

I have installed the stock blade grips in conjunction with the Lynx aluminum head, looks a little strange, but can't see any reason why it won't work. Is there any advantage to using the Lynx Aluminum blade grips?

I was also looking for advise on which main blades to run for the maiden flight. Should I run stock woodies or the plastic lynx blades. I have not yet purchased any CF blades.
I was very pleased to see that the stock woodies weighed in at the exact same weight on my brand new jewelers scale! I have not weighed the Lynx blades yet.

One final question. I did pickup a Bluetooth board to give me wireless communication/programming with the Ikon. It works great. Is this board meant to remain installed in the frame or should I disconnect it and use it when I need to program a change?

[Diogenes]

You can disconnect the programming card. I usually leave the connecting cord in though, because it's a pita to get it back in again.

I used a single dsmx satellite, placed in the original beastx location. Mounted my Ikon on top, sideways so that the usb port was accessible.

I'd use the Lynx blades for spoolup, I remember hearing that you shouldnt go > 80% throttle with woodies. And that's with a stock motor.

[Nelsonisms]

Has anyone ever actually heard anyone say the wood blades fell apart because they ran the headspeed too high? I haven't.

I don't think that advice from Blade to not run up at full throttle was because the wood blades were falling apart. I think it was their original attempt to mitigate the vibration problems that were causing the right roll of death for lots of people after the initial release. If you ran a lower throttle percentage then the chances of vibes affecting the BeastX were lower which reduced the number of people contacting them for support. Perhaps the wood blades had some greater propensity to be out of balance which may have exacerbated the problem. However the problem was never the strength of the wood blades, it was the crappy motor bearings, flexible frame and soft aluminum tail hub that were the real problem. The wood blades just took the rap.

[DoubleCH]

+1

Flying wood blades with P2632 (with video):
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...70#post5372670