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mSR Blade (eFlite) Micro SR Helicopters Information and Help |
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05-30-2010, 06:51 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Trondheim Norway
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As said your test is not valide as you sanded down the hole in the flybar.
Before the hole get that large from inflight use the balls on the flybar is worn out and the flybar have to be changed. Yes i know where natural dilation comes from and as the hole weare ther is a natural limit fore how big it can be, and bye sanding it you get it way bigger then it ever going to be from normal wear. As said i cant replicate the wobble on my own well worn mSR and thats good enough proof fore me.
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05-30-2010, 07:05 AM | #22 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: May 2008
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Quote:
Best if you post a handsfree video at your most convenient time and show the longest handsfree hover you can achieve (while keeping it in frame on your video camera) on your STOCK setup. Or best, if you can show a video of your heli doing some precise manuever on some small space. |
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05-30-2010, 07:21 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2008
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and please dont forget, this thread is "Achieving MORE handsfree stability" on an already handsfree capable MSR. You may have your own reference a handsfree stable heli as i have mine. I am using what i have already seen and applied some mods to get "more" of that stability i see on an already worn out head and i am just simply sharing what i've seen. Posting a video will give us enough reference as to the difference between the stock and the modded one. Should be good for all of us here when we start comparing and analyzing things.
And i am telling you now, i cant even achieve the stunt below on the MSR's stock form as the heli wont stay put in one place when i first got it. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjQrP4WW4jk[/ame] and my point of reference is my FP 4 channel picooz doing the same "cyclic nudges" .... [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiMqH3dZJyE[/ame] |
05-30-2010, 08:06 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Trondheim Norway
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I have a confession to make.
I dont have a camera here and that doesnt realy matter but to realy check the stability of my heli i took it inside and trimmed it in to stay in one place. In the beginning it just sat there but after 10-15 seconds slowly started to ocilate and had to be corrected. With that said my blades are ut of track from way to many crashes and im awaiting new blades from US together with alot of other heli parts. So if EQMODs modded heli will sit still longer then his mod have an effect. There you have it.
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05-30-2010, 08:36 AM | #25 (permalink) | |
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
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Quote:
The modded heli can stay longer without oscillations more than that. |
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05-30-2010, 01:50 PM | #26 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Trondheim Norway
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Well that progressive TBE i can live with as i dont hover more then 5 seconds at any given time becouse the wind catche it.
I see you have the same "big" heli as i do and i have a mod to mine that makes it hover hands free fore 10 sec before it start to drift. The mod itself was not intended to make hover more stabile but was more like a side effect.
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05-31-2010, 11:28 PM | #27 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: May 2008
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Quote:
Please share |
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06-01-2010, 04:46 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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Maybe he's talking about pitching up his 90 degreee paddles like I did on my Falcon 40 at first. The stability is good, the control sacrifice is not.
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06-01-2010, 11:10 AM | #29 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Trondheim Norway
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No im not pitching up my paddles.
One year ago i upgraded the heli with Pro swash, washoutarms and V3 headblock. These winter i had a crash where the headblock got slightly bendt wihout me knowing. Did have problems with small wibrations afterwards but did flye the heli until april. Then i ordered Pro headblock and bladegrips and put on. Im still using the V2 seesaw, chage and upper mixingarms together with the rest of the Pro head. To fit the new headblock i had to put the mainshaft upsidedown and grind off the underside of the seesaw to prevent it from hitting the jesusbolt. I did the mod becouse i was curious on where the Pro parts would fitt and i like the ability to mix parts, and a sideffect was the even better stability then with the V3 headblock.
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01-26-2011, 12:24 AM | #30 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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Ridiculous to read this straight through. EQ's sure got some time on his hands, as well as some bangin' tunes and kick ass grammar.
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12-13-2011, 11:59 AM | #31 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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I have an MSR and a 120 SR, but I am also a long time Model Railroader, specializing in brass Steam models, and fixing and painting them. I also know lots about plastic and metal lubricants. Try Graphite for dry lubrication on main rotor blades where they attach to the hub. Use plastic compatible light weight oil for the main rotors' gear. I also use armature oil, a very light, thin oil to oil the motor shafts. The plastic compatible oils DO NOT soften the plastics. I also use compressed air to blow away all the excess lubes. You can still have a thin barrier of oil on your copter that will be too thin to 'hold' dust. Don't use 'clinging' oils as THEY WILL screw up yer mechanics. Baby oil is also NOT to be used.
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05-12-2012, 11:25 AM | #33 (permalink) |
formerly koi-fish
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Gonna ask a stupid question here.....
I noticed that my rotors tend to move in/out just a little bit when on the head. Will this induce tbe as well like when you get the "oval" on the flybar from wear?
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06-29-2014, 08:12 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Just as a note, my new out of box msr rotors have a slight bit of "side to side, or in/out" play also. However, it seems to hover hands free as well as any of the videos I have seen, modified or unmodified. I have a good 30 flights on mine and although EQ's mods are very well thought out and skillfully executed indeed, I just don't see any need on mine yet as far as a stable hover is concerned.
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