460mx rewind and mods

[Yfbb]

Originally Posted by fusionsx00

Drill and tap a m2 setscrew like the scorpion bell does.

The 10mil paper is stiff, just pull the first turn over it. Adjust the location and then finish the turns, it will bend over nice

You can see the set screw here in this pic

Did you use a drill press?

[fusionsx00]

Nope, just a center punch and the bell clamped down. I start with a smaller drill thru. Once I knew the hole was in the right spot i used the right size drill and then a tap.

With the tap i always go a full turn then half a turn back with plenty of oil. I even had to back out and clean the chips a few times.

Just take your time and it will go smoothly

[Soccerjay]

Any tips on putting the stator back on the bell cap? I'm about to put it back together and test it soon, then I'll epoxy it once it's all checked out...

[omerco]

put the holder in a max cold freezer

[Soccerjay]

Originally Posted by omerco

put the holder in a max cold freezer

Already put it together before I had to run out of the house, this is a pic of the wind, not too bad for a first...I messed up one turn where the wire didn't get fully flat and it kinda off but it will work, minor detail for now...

[omerco]

Looks nice! carefull with that jumper wire passing close to the center:try bending it more outside, and if you have some insulation paper put a round piece on the holder before assembly

[danieljf]

Hello friends, I am not able to open the engine.
Someone would have a video tutorial?
Any tips?
Sorry my english

[omerco]

You need a press for it

[Soccerjay]

Originally Posted by danieljf

Hello friends, I am not able to open the engine.

Someone would have a video tutorial?

Any tips?

Sorry my english

I cooled it in the freezer over night and put a socket inside the stator hole but big enough to sit on the bell cap, then I gently tapped it with a hammer steadily pushing it out until it came out all the way

[omerco]

I think he meant taking the bell off the motor, not the stator off the holder?

[Soccerjay]

Originally Posted by omerco

I think he meant taking the bell off the motor, not the stator off the holder?

Oh my bad...

[Soccerjay]

I think I might have messed up one of the bearings when I reinstalled or it's getting a little notchy so what bearings are you guys using?

[clueless_jay]

Looks great! I think I will rewind my burned 460MX soon.

One noob question though. The original winding is 9T delta. A winding calculator is telling me I could wind it 9T Delta or 5T Wye. I wonder what's the practical side of these two.

Thanks!

[omerco]

Y will give you higher R. D is preferred if it gives you the KV spec you need.

[j.miranda92]

Originally Posted by fusionsx00

No stock test data since motor had broken wires inside.

Motor is 9n6p, factory wind 3 strand 9t of .31mm wire 1800kv (11 grams weight of stock wire)
Rewind in standard ABCABCABC 9t delta .81mm 200c wire 1861kv(12pwm)(20 grams of new wire)

The top of the can was loose , that was bonded back on and the magnets were reinforced
Also the green power coat was removed, very uneven and thick. Nomex paper used

The press fit align shaft was scraped and a scorpion 2520 3.5 end shaft was used instead.
A 3mmx.5 set screw was placed in the can to secure the shaft. The scorpion shaft is a very close fit. Can was also balanced.

Ill post some data logs soon.











Scorpion 2520 3.5mm shaft with set screw mod

I have this motor, and im trying to disarm it to remove the bearings, can you tell me how to disarm it?

[ron_van_sommeren]

A few messages up.

See also
Sticky: (Re)winding and building motors, tips & tricks, checks & tests - RCG
→ opening post
→ item #5 Disassembly & old winding removal


Suggestion:
Please trim your huge quote, one picture would be enough, your reply is effectively only one line of text.

Vriendelijke groeten Ron

[Bladecpnitro]

I also find myself having to rewind my Scorpion 2221-10 3000KV after a lower bearing replacement.

While punching the bearing out it separated and left the outer race in the can. During the process of getting it out I somehow broke a wire on the motor. Might could have patched it but... nah! I'll just rewind it.

I had to build a tool to get the stuck race out of the motor.

Anyhow now I'm having one heck of a time getting the stator off the end plate. This guy is as tuff as I've ever seen. I finally have it tapped out about 4mm and stuck it back in the freezer.

Nice work FusionSX00 as always.

[omerco]

We recently bought a new fridge so I can get them separated more easily

[1BOHO]

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

I also find myself having to rewind my Scorpion 2221-10 3000KV after a lower bearing replacement.

While punching the bearing out it separated and left the outer race in the can. During the process of getting it out I somehow broke a wire on the motor. Might could have patched it but... nah! I'll just rewind it.

I had to build a tool to get the stuck race out of the motor.

Anyhow now I'm having one heck of a time getting the stator off the end plate. This guy is as tuff as I've ever seen. I finally have it tapped out about 4mm and stuck it back in the freezer.

Nice work FusionSX00 as always.

Best way to remove the bearings from the carrier is to heat it to approx. 220F* and they will usually fall right out with little force.It is a good idea to use the heat even if using a bearing removal tool like scorpion supplies that pulls on the inner race because pressing or pulling on the inner race with any significant force at all usually leads to damage to the bearings and shield. When replacing the bearings use a tool that only presses on the outer race you can usually hand press in most cases if not you can always reheat and they should drop back in without much effort.A good interference fit in the seats and on the shaft and inner race is essential for quiet operation.If the shaft is worn and the bearings easily slide with no effort replace the shaft. Any play there will be a source of noise.If you damage only the shields they can be removed by removing the retaining clip with a straight pin or needle. You can then place them face (lettering side) down and flatten the deformation`with a dowel that has an od smaller than the Id of the shields angled shoulder with light pressure on a press.

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by 1BOHO

Best way to remove the bearings from the carrier is to heat it to approx. 220F* and they will usually fall right out with little force.It is a good idea to use the heat even if using a bearing removal tool like scorpion supplies that pulls on the inner race because pressing or pulling on the inner race with any significant force at all usually leads to damage to the bearings and shield. When replacing the bearings use a tool that only presses on the outer race you can usually hand press in most cases if not you can always reheat and they should drop back in without much effort.A good interference fit in the seats and on the shaft and inner race is essential for quiet operation.If the shaft is worn and the bearings easily slide with no effort replace the shaft. Any play there will be a source of noise.If you damage only the shields they can be removed by removing the retaining clip with a straight pin or needle. You can then place them face (lettering side) down and flatten the deformation`with a dowel that has an od smaller than the Id of the shields angled shoulder with light pressure on a press.

Thanks for the tips man!

It was sort of one of those freak things really. It should have been so simple you know like many times before. Tear it down, throw a new bearing in, set the mesh and off to flying but it turned into a nightmare and cancled out what little of the weekend I had left to fly.
I could have flown the 550 but I can't enjoy flying if my 450 is down.

The bearing wasn't nearly toasted but had started to whine a little and I thought I better change it. It was bad bearing but might have lasted 200 more flights to complete failure.


That particular bearing is not a pressed fit so I have to loc tite it in place.