START HERE |
|
Register | FAQ | PM | Events | Groups | Blogs | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
Unregistered
|
SR Blade Helicopters (eFlite) SR |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-15-2010, 11:54 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2009
|
Head Dampers, Shims and Step Washers
I've tried a few different options ("bearing mod", "5 shims, 1 Step Washer", etc), and for me I've finally found a combo that provides good dampening and holds up well and doesn't leave you with shredded dampers.
This is what I'm rolling with.
[main shaft] [damper] [step washer] [3 spacers] [step washer] - > [blade grip etc..] My reasoning for doing this is as follows.
So far, I've had really good luck with this setup - if anything changes, I'll post back. Hope this helps!
__________________
|
Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement |
|
07-15-2010, 11:58 PM | #2 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2010
|
+1 This is exactly how I have mine setup. I reccomended this awhile back when everyone was on the topic regarding how much friction you want in your flybar, but I think everyone was under the impression that your goal should be zero friction... which is not true. You can have a certain amount of friction in your flybar's movement before it begins to effect flight performance.
__________________
- 6S TREX 450 Pro FBL - µBeast, MKS, Castle Creations - Goblin 500 - Kontronik Pyro 600-12, Jive 100lv, iKon, BK servos - TBS Discovery - Pixhawk - Spektrum DX7 |
07-16-2010, 11:21 AM | #3 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: May 2009
|
I just purchased o-rings from McMaster-Carr based on the stock o-ring size but in stiffer material. The 70 durometer was harder than the stock (I bet stock is 50 durometer or softer) the extra hard (90 durometer) might be the best bet. You can get 100 for about $2, so the price is right. I plan on trying them out this weekend so I can compare to the Trex 450 dampers I am currently using. They were $5 for 4!
__________________
B400 - HS65MG, GY401, JR DS3500G, Align 35a ESC, Sonic CNC tail SR - 10T pinon, T450 skids, extreme orange blades MCpX stock, my SIM |
07-16-2010, 11:30 AM | #4 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
Do you guys have a product number or web link for these cylindrical ones or the stiffer one sanddan mentions? I didn't know they even existed! I have a lot more step washers than shims, so it would be a good changeover for me. BTW, I'm expecting some CF blades today or tomorrow (HDX), can't wait to give them a try.
__________________
7hvu, 6hv,,Prôtos,450Pro, DT520E some planks |
07-16-2010, 08:29 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Usa, Ca, North Fork
|
Are these the cylindrical dampers you speak of...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ead-Dampners-4 |
07-16-2010, 08:32 PM | #6 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Nov 2009
|
Yes'm, dems thoze.
__________________
THIS IS MY SIGNATURE. THERE ARE MANY LIKE IT BUT THIS ONE IS MINE. |
07-16-2010, 08:45 PM | #7 (permalink) |
Registered Users
|
Just dont know?
hey I tried the two step washers and my heli went into the WOBBLE/Shake of death. If you guys are doing it successfuly, it must be something im doing?
This is the order : main shaft, dampener( OEM O ring), step washer(facing the dampener), two shims, step washer, and blade grip, etc. Maybe the key is the TREX dampener?? It was also really tight when i turned the feather shaft to test it for being bent. I finally ended up getting rid of the violent shaking by using the regular set up, but now im left with movement.
__________________
ALIGN T-REX 450 PRO / BLADE MCPX |
07-16-2010, 09:34 PM | #9 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Nov 2009
|
Oops, they may be, as it loaded I saw the word red and assumed they were so I just pressed back and responded. Should have let it load fully if those aren't the ones.
__________________
THIS IS MY SIGNATURE. THERE ARE MANY LIKE IT BUT THIS ONE IS MINE. |
07-16-2010, 09:37 PM | #10 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2008
|
it is the 450 V1 dampers you want. They came in two versions, o rings, 2 per side and cylinder one per side, in a 450. In a cp or sr, you only need one O ring, so you would cut the cylinder in half....which is what I do. I use Trueblood 450 V1 "reds"....cut in half. They work great and do not wear out very quickly.....J
|
07-16-2010, 09:47 PM | #11 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jun 2010
|
Maybe these? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ead-Dampener-4
The ones I use are the black trex parts. I'm not familiar with these red ones. I think the red ones are more expensive but I don't recall exactly. |
07-16-2010, 09:51 PM | #12 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
|
These are the ones I'm using. They're perfect in practice if you use the setup in the OP. They require no trimming and fit flush with the edge.
The T450 o-rings, or trueblood 'double wides' (yeehaw) may work really well, too. But all I can speak for are these guys since this is what I have tried: http://www.ehobbies.com/agnhs1266.ht...mpaign=froogle
__________________
|
07-16-2010, 09:53 PM | #13 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
|
Quote:
It could be the damper, but I would start by adding the 3rd shim as described in my OP. For best results follow the setup I described to a T. Good luck!
__________________
|
|
07-16-2010, 11:15 PM | #14 (permalink) |
Registered Users
|
Ok thanks, Ill give it a try
__________________
ALIGN T-REX 450 PRO / BLADE MCPX |
09-17-2010, 12:52 AM | #15 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Aug 2009
|
Another idea?
Hey Y'all,
I know this thread is a little old but thought I'd ask anyway. I experienced good results on my old CP by replacing the rubber o rings with a small section of fuel tubing. A guy at my LHS suggested it for my aluminum head and it stiffened things up pretty good yet still allowed the blade grips to swivel nicely. May not be a good setup for the stock plastic head but maybe worth a try? I seem to recall I used like 2 shims and then the normal bearing washer against the aluminum blade grip bearing. Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks. "taco" |
09-17-2010, 06:58 AM | #16 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2010
|
head dampers
Has anyone tried polyurethane?
|
09-17-2010, 03:48 PM | #17 (permalink) |
Registered Users
|
I just finished modding mine with standard #6 o-rings that are quite stiffer than the standard SR ones but had to be somewhat squeezed to get into the center hub holes.
After that i have a step washer (step against the o-ring), 5 shims and another step washer (step against the bearing). I have only done a short hovering session but it does feel much more tight and responds in a more affirmative (if I may say so) way to stick input. Mighty please I did that mod. Ave HeliFreaks... Morituri te salutant
__________________
------------------------------------------------------------------ Noob with: Blade SR standard (not flying at the moment) HK Trex 450 Full Metal Alloy (tuning it, not yet flown) |
10-24-2010, 11:54 AM | #18 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2010
|
One advantage to being a rank beginner, you can try almost anything and sometimes it works. I went to the local hardware store and purchased the smallest metric O rings available. They were slightly larger than the O Rings provided for the SR. I concocted the combination of from the center shaft out, stock O Ring, Store bought O ring, step washer, three spacers, step washer, screw. Over numerous flights and crashes the stock O rings show absolutely no wear and the copter is noticeably more stable. It may not stunt as well but you will appreciate its learner characteristics.
|
10-24-2010, 03:07 PM | #19 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2008
|
I have tried the fuel hose....it works but is hard to get the feather shaft though. I have tried most of the dampers around and have been using the true blood reds for the last year. Also, there are several other brands that work, that are of the same type....J
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|