KME Engines Diamond .60 Pro Owners Thread

[Mr.HillBilly]

I am still waiting on mine to get here, but I figure the fingre on the back plate for 3.5 secs. would be about right.

Something that should work is take a maker and make a dark spot on the back of the motor head and use that for your temp. gun, I have done that on other things so I do not see why it would not work on this also.. As long as it is not shinny it should work. Then when you learn the motor wipe it down with some fingernail polish remover to get the marker back off again.

Worth a try anyways.

[0KEWL]

Matija,

something around 82°C to 91°C (180°-195°F) at the head should keep you and the engine on the safe side. Or check if you can keep your finger on the backplate for some seconds at least before it gets too hot.

Don't worry if you are just some degrees beyond. I had the same problems with measuring using my temp-gun, installed a small thermometer with sensor instead which now works fine for me.

Lars

Originally Posted by zosek

Hello,

just a quick question. What should be the temperature on the backplate of the engine? I'm having hard time with the temperature, also with measuring, IR thermometer cant measure the temperature.

[Knight Flight]

A couple of quick questions, and observations.

I've got about a gallon and a half through my 60 so far, it's just now starting to show signs of static compression. I'm wondering if this is normal to take this long for the ring to seat to the cyllinder/piston lands. Regardless of the lack of initial static compression, she smokes like a chimney, makes tons of power. The fuel economy is also amazing considering the power she makes!

Speaking of the ring, the dark color of the ring turned to silver very quickly, with other engines this is an indication that the ring is worn and should be replaced. Is the silver color normal for the KME ring? I'm certain it's not been abused, liner looks good, hasn't been overheated.

Jay

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by Knight Flight

A couple of quick questions, and observations.

I've got about a gallon and a half through my 60 so far, it's just now starting to show signs of static compression. I'm wondering if this is normal to take this long for the ring to seat to the cyllinder/piston lands. Regardless of the lack of initial static compression, she smokes like a chimney, makes tons of power. The fuel economy is also amazing considering the power she makes!

Speaking of the ring, the dark color of the ring turned to silver very quickly, with other engines this is an indication that the ring is worn and should be replaced. Is the silver color normal for the KME ring? I'm certain it's not been abused, liner looks good, hasn't been overheated.

Jay

Jay, we use a different type of material. yes the silver is normal on the ring.
It take about 2 or 3 gallons for the engine to deliver the best power.
Let me know if there is any thing else I can help you with.

[Knight Flight]

Originally Posted by motomanmel

Jay, we use a different type of material. yes the silver is normal on the ring.
It take about 2 or 3 gallons for the engine to deliver the best power.
Let me know if there is any thing else I can help you with.

I was pretty certain about the ring, it's always nice to get a confirmation from the manufacturer. If it takes the better part of a case to get this motor fully broken in, I couldn't possibly be more thrilled. That demonstrates the internal pieces are durable, and should be extremely long lasting.

Best way you can help me is to build more of these beautiful power monsters! I have mine in a TT X50, at 7 lbs, 2ozs. (less fuel) it's got the kind of power I've come to expect only in an electric. What a treat!

Jay

[devilfish]

Will the KME 60 work ok with rapicon 20% fuel. Or do it need 30% to "wake up" ?

Reason I ask is that I use 20% for my other helis, and it would be preferable if could use the same fuel for all my helis..


Thanks

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by devilfish

Will the KME 60 work ok with rapicon 20% fuel. Or do it need 30% to "wake up" ?

Reason I ask is that I use 20% for my other helis, and it would be preferable if could use the same fuel for all my helis..


Thanks

Devilfish, No problem running the 20% we have tested RotorRage 20% in the past and found that it works quite well.

Let me know if you have any problems with the set up i can walk you through it.

Thanks
Jerome

[devilfish]

Thanks for the great support

[zosek]

Thanks for answers.

I made a dark spot on the backplate and the temperature was 44°C. Hope it is not to hot. If i open main needle more than it is, the enigine becomes powerless.

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by zosek

Thanks for answers.

I made a dark spot on the backplate and the temperature was 44°C. Hope it is not to hot. If i open main needle more than it is, the enigine becomes powerless.

Zosek, Are you 44C at the back Plate? 44C = 111F
If your head is reading 44C It seems you do not have a true reading on your temp gun.
The head should read just seconds after your flight 92C, (195 -198 F)

Thanks
Jerome

[zosek]

Yes the backplate is 44°C.

[Rob Cherry]

I'm really considering this engine as the powerplant for my new bird, but I've yet to find the KME muffler in stock anywhere. Though, the engine looks to be readily available at a few online retailers.

EDIT: I found one at HD, now I feel like a dumbass.

But I am wondering what rpm sensor to use. I'm looking at upgrading my vbar 5.0 to the upcoming firmware that has the governor feature. It looks like it will support backplate sensors. How would I setup something like this? Also consider this will be my first nitro, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by csdstudio

I'm really considering this engine as the powerplant for my new bird, but I've yet to find the KME muffler in stock anywhere. Though, the engine looks to be readily available at a few online retailers.

EDIT: I found one at HD, now I feel like a dumbass.

But I am wondering what rpm sensor to use. I'm looking at upgrading my vbar 5.0 to the upcoming firmware that has the governor feature. It looks like it will support backplate sensors. How would I setup something like this? Also consider this will be my first nitro, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Back sensor works great on the KME. Thats what we use on all our helis and test helis.
Buy yourself the Spectrum back sensor. You need to have a small gap between the sensor and the back plate. (do not put the sensor on and have it touch the back plate.)

Let me know if you need anymore help

[Rob Cherry]

Thanks. What method do you use to fasten the sensor in the right location? Also, if the peak hp is produced at 18,000 rpm, should I set my rev limiter to around 18,500 to keep rpms just above peak?

Also, has there been any word of this engine being used in a Vision 50 extreme? I'm excited to try this 60 in an already light-weight 50 heli. I'm sure it will be stupid fast, which is great as I'm used to my over-powered Logo 600 being just that, insane.

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by csdstudio

Thanks. What method do you use to fasten the sensor in the right location? Also, if the peak hp is produced at 18,000 rpm, should I set my rev limiter to around 18,500 to keep rpms just above peak?

Also, has there been any word of this engine being used in a Vision 50 extreme? I'm excited to try this 60 in an already light-weight 50 heli. I'm sure it will be stupid fast, which is great as I'm used to my over-powered Logo 600 being just that, insane.

The back plate bolts are 8mm get two 10mm to secure the sensor and put a washer under the sensor. Also put a washer on top of the sensor this will help the plastic from cracking. The washer on the bottom can very in size to help get the spacing you need for the sensor. Should be .05 of the back plate.

Start the RPMs at 18,000 and then check your head speed. you want to get head speed up to 2080 After you break in the motor. run the head speed at 1850 to break in the motor run 4 tanks through it just fly it easy for the 4 tanks. After that you will be good to go. KME produces the most power after about a 1.5 gallons of fuel.

Thanks

[zosek]

I did a quick video of my vibe with kme engine. The link is in the JR forum.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...=83062&page=30

[nlco66]

Hi all,
we have realised a Germann Support Forum for KME Engines, hope you enjoy it.

http://www.heli-rock.de/modules.php?...article&sid=66

[joseca]

KME 110 When will this thing be available?

[oldschool269]

i have a curiousity type question .

i have recently bought a kme 60, the seller said it would fly fine with a 90 pipe on i t.


now question, the crank rotation, bearings , rod, and piston, when in motion up to rpm , create a resonant freq.. as the fuel mix enters the pipe, it needs the wave to reflect at the correct matched freq to fully and quickly draw out the burnt gas to allow a new full fuel charge to enter the chamber.

ok , so its a 60 size motor , with some longer timing, why would you put a 90 pipe on the motor, it would be calling for the correct volume to make the motor turn on ...

with a 90 pipe on it , rough calcs only , u would need 65% nitro to get the motor to turn on fully ?

is the whole recommendation of fitting a 90 pipe to a 60 engine, just to get you in the air ?
i would like to think ill get the most out of the motor i can , so i suppose ill have to order the kme pipe also

so whats up with that , a 60 motor would need radical timing to switch on at 30% nitro on a 90 pipe .
inquiring minds would like to know

im more looking at the hattori 566 adapted to fit and run on 16%-20% nitro ...i havent had the head of yet to look at the bubble shape and measure squish band .
but if i can get the nitro right , the motor should be a ripper on a little pipe , fully turned on and in tune.

i come from RC boat racing background , with years of making CMB,MAC,PICCO,NOVAROSSI motors scream on 70% nitro for speed runs....i fully understand that a heli motor requires torque , and a wide power band
but basic engine tuning rules still apply for 2 stroke tuning

90 pipes don't go onto 60 size motors ... and run like they should , i am asking what is the acceptation to the rule with this motor ?



Jason

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by oldschool269

i have a curiousity type question .

i have recently bought a kme 60, the seller said it would fly fine with a 90 pipe on i t.


now question, the crank rotation, bearings , rod, and piston, when in motion up to rpm , create a resonant freq.. as the fuel mix enters the pipe, it needs the wave to reflect at the correct matched freq to fully and quickly draw out the burnt gas to allow a new full fuel charge to enter the chamber.

ok , so its a 60 size motor , with some longer timing, why would you put a 90 pipe on the motor, it would be calling for the correct volume to make the motor turn on ...

with a 90 pipe on it , rough calcs only , u would need 65% nitro to get the motor to turn on fully ?

is the whole recommendation of fitting a 90 pipe to a 60 engine, just to get you in the air ?
i would like to think ill get the most out of the motor i can , so i suppose ill have to order the kme pipe also

so whats up with that , a 60 motor would need radical timing to switch on at 30% nitro on a 90 pipe .
inquiring minds would like to know

im more looking at the hattori 566 adapted to fit and run on 16%-20% nitro ...i havent had the head of yet to look at the bubble shape and measure squish band .
but if i can get the nitro right , the motor should be a ripper on a little pipe , fully turned on and in tune.

i come from RC boat racing background , with years of making CMB,MAC,PICCO,NOVAROSSI motors scream on 70% nitro for speed runs....i fully understand that a heli motor requires torque , and a wide power band
but basic engine tuning rules still apply for 2 stroke tuning

90 pipes don't go onto 60 size motors ... and run like they should , i am asking what is the acceptation to the rule with this motor ?



Jason

Well, I have to say been tough getting people to understand.
The KME engine is not set up for a 90 pipe. This is a 60 motor and has the same bolt pattern as any .60 motor.

Back in the day when people used .60's instead of .90's they had there own bolt patten for a .60 pipe.
Because KME made there bolt pattern different than the .50 everyone assumes that its a 90 size pipe.
If you remember the .60 was first and some engine companies used the same crank case and turned it into a .90. thats why the exhaust port is the same as a .60.
There are still plenty of .60 pipes out in the market.

We did do back to back testing with all .60 pipes and .90 pipe just to get some really good feed back. KME did this for more than 3 weeks straight and a total of 3 months. We still do testing on pipes. KME tests all new pipes that come on the market.

As far as a little pipe, some worked good but lacked the Mid but kicked A** on the top. But most 3D Pilots really want the Mid with no sacrifice to the top. So we came up with the best of both worlds.

If you really want to use a Hatori use the SB19 and drill and tap a nipple hole for the tank pressure. You can use the Header from the SB 20 fits right on. But we still think our KME pipe is the best fit for our engine.

Thanks for the post.