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Belt CP E-Sky Belt CP


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Old 06-22-2011, 12:43 PM   #161 (permalink)
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Glad you're making a progress here, Denis!

On this picture you can see my first 600, the battery is on the other side of the 2-in-1, it's a thin 2S 1900 mAh Align battery. You can see a glimpse of AR8000's satellite on the other side as well. Next to the fuel tank there is a 2-in-1 switch unit:



On the other 600 I have a massive 5000 mAh Li-Fe battery, so it's mounted underneath.

Can't answer about CSM RV20, but I imagine that you can set it up so it's always on and it will respond to your throttle signal to activate programmed headspeed, you just won't be able to switch it on-off without 7th channel.

My throttle setup on both 600s is 0% - throttle body fully closed, 100% throttle body fully open, both within a couple of clicks from binding a servo. Then normal curve is 10-40-55-60-65 and idle-up is 65-60-55-60-65, this keeps the headspeed at about 1700-1750 RPM. 10% is consistently the idle RPM level on all 3 of my OS engines, so the same 10% is also programmed as a throttle hold level.

That way I start the engine in throttle hold, grab the heli, take it to the takeoff spot, make sure flight mode is in normal, flip TH off (no transition on engine RPM at this time), slowly accelerate to mid stick, flip idle up on while still on the ground and lift off (it works just as well if you take off first and then go into idle-up).
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:50 PM   #162 (permalink)
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I believe the RV20 is no different then the RV10 I have, just with extra goodies.

It'll run on "manual" mode if you don't hook up the cable to a seven channel RX/TX. So at 15% throttle it will engage. Set your RPM and it will do the rest, since it's a governor, just run a 100% flat throttle curve at idle up. Normal throttle just something like 0-25-45-55-65 or whatever works.

Manual mode is pretty convenient but limited. It goven the RPM you set, and if you want to have some control between normal and idle up, you use your curves.
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Old 06-22-2011, 05:17 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Cheers for the pic jerry, think my 2-1 will be in the same place as yours then. I seem to recall the li-po being underneath when I got it, maybe to make easy access to the gov? I'd like to use it as I plan a tx upgrade in the not too distant future????

Guess I'll just play around with the govenor and battery location until I find what works best with what I got then. Releived in a way I'm not adding a co-pilot or FBL system at the moment anyway, the nitro engine will be enough of a new learning curve for me now!!

Thanks too Mike, I'm glad the govenor can be mounted now for use with the dx6i. I guess when I do get the dx7 or 8 then it'll just be a case of changing the gov settings and programming new tx settings and curve's. Think I got it

I've programmed the curves above, and just wanted to check that I should have throttle hold set to 10%? Just wanted to check I got that right!!

Now where's my sticky pads got too??
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:08 AM   #164 (permalink)
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That's right about the guvna, however I would not use 100% flat curves just incase guv breaks and you could pop the engine. Its worth doing a proper v curve for idle up.


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Old 06-23-2011, 04:23 AM   #165 (permalink)
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Any suggestions then Gaz? Should I leave a 10% variant in the idel up v-curve then - something like 100-95-90-95-100?

Should I go lower if my normal mode curve is 0-25-45-55-65?

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Old 06-23-2011, 05:02 AM   #166 (permalink)
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I had 100-95-90-95-100, went to flat as it was recommended by Bert K. It's preference, everyone says something different.

Limiters, run a curve, govs run flat, other say don't run flat no matter what encase of electronic failure and messing up the engine, other says don't bother, seems everyone thinks something different on every part of a nitro. Ask about engine break-in in the main forum if you want some HUGE head aches and confusion.

Go with the v-curve cannot hurt and it's not like you're going to head out tomorrow and start flying smack like Bert.
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:41 AM   #167 (permalink)
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You can see my setup here.

I have since change my 2 in 1 switch to the same position Jerry's is in.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...rex+600&page=3

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Old 06-24-2011, 04:32 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Ok, I've programmed the v-curve for now and I'll see how it goes. Can always change it to flat curve later if any problems, or I do start flying it like Bert

Cheers for the link to yours Jonny. I've finished placing the electronics now, but still got to finish connecting some wires. I've gone with battery underneath again, so I can have easy acces to the gov mounted on the side and it makes some space for tucking in wires too.

I put the main blades and pre-built tail on last night - all of a sudden it looks like it's almost finished!! Will have to do some progress pics now!!

Still got some more stuff I need to check now.

Replaced the bent flybar last night - the threaded metal collar that goes inside the paddle has come out. Hoping I can perform somekind of CA glue fix and get it sorted (looks like its been done before). Otherwise may need a new set of paddles!!

Not a clue about which wire is which on the gyro!! Got red and black plugs with green, red and yellow wires. Not sure which plug is for which channel! Will have to search and download the ds760 manual.

Just wanted to check which port on the AR7000 RX should the power supply from the 2-1 Volt Reg go into?

Determined to get this finished soon!!
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:54 AM   #169 (permalink)
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:41 AM   #170 (permalink)
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The port on its own den, and is horizontal as opposed to rest being vertical.


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Old 06-24-2011, 07:01 AM   #171 (permalink)
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Very nice setup Denis. It's similar to mine

Here's a link to the Spartan manual, if you haven't already found it.

www.ircha.org/pgm-download_media.php?name=Spartan%20760%20Gyro.pdf

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Old 06-24-2011, 09:47 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Hehe...cheers Jonny. I found the manual myself and managed to work out whats what now. The manual has a good diagram a few pages in, so no wonder I didn't have a clue at the time!! Still got alot to read about the setup!!

I've finished all the connections now and I've tidied up the wiring too. Quite impressed how easy it was to get the cable ties through even with all the wires and braiding, and I'm reasonably happy with my first attempt. Hope everything can stay that way, subject to the first few flight test's. Used to hate that job on the 450

Not sure if I needed the REM cable with the CSM govenor? I'm assuming I won't need to install it yet, as it's for Remote mode which is related to use with 7 channels and two idel up positions? I'll be using manual mode and 6 channels for now, right

Next job then is install the new fuel lines, header tank and install the pipe. Do I need to clean fuel filters or do they need replacing once in a while?

This thing has ended up a multi coloured construction, with red and silver washers, blue lines, green and black braids, yellow plastic tube wraps Not to bothered about it as I'll sort it out over time. Just get it flying for now
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:24 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Some more pics before the next round of work...

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Old 06-24-2011, 01:12 PM   #174 (permalink)
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The links to to the last 2 pics are broken, Denis. Fuel filter: if it's paper (Align original), replace, they're cheap enough. If it's a brass screen type, unscrew and wash in fuel.
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:45 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Fuel line comming off the top of the tank is for pressure, side fuel line goes to carb.
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:47 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jperkosk View Post
The links to to the last 2 pics are broken, Denis. Fuel filter: if it's paper (Align original), replace, they're cheap enough. If it's a brass screen type, unscrew and wash in fuel.
Really? The images work for me

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Old 06-24-2011, 04:32 PM   #177 (permalink)
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I did break the links whilst I moved them from one online album to another, but I came back to fix it. Sorry for the confusion!!

I'm sure my filters have been upgraded already, so I guess it's just a small plumbing job then, cheers for the tip Jerry

Those are still the old fuel lines Tom. Didn't take them off so I knew how long to cut the new one's!! I've just put the pipe on and realised I've got to re-install the header tank...and I don't remember where it went. Hope my before pics show it clearly enough!!
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:48 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Sorry guys does anyone have a pic of a 600 with plumbing for a header tank??

Didn't get a close up before I stripped her down!!
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:47 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Here Denis.




Clunk line (Side) of main fuel tank goes into the top/bottom of the header tank.

Clunk line of the header tank goes to a fuel filter.

Fuel filter goes to the Carb.

Top fuel line on the main tank goes to the muffler for pressure.

Setup of the header tank plumbing varies by choice and the model of tank you have as you'll notice.

Placement of the header tank is pretty optional. Where ever you can find a screw on the frame to remove that fits into a bearing block or support of some kind and you have space for the tank itself works.

Otherwise she looks pretty awesome Denis! To hell with color matching at this point, it's all small stuff you can swap out with time.
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:15 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Thanks again Mike I also had a look around the 600 forum last night and found the show us your 600 sticky. Post no.1, pic no.1 is almost identical to how mine should be

At the moment I can't recall what was used as a stand-off, so the header tank clears the main tank. There is no obvious part for my quick UK bracket, and my old pics don't show it clearly enough Stuck again!!

EDIT : One of these...http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/quic...1r-p-7738.html

Thankfully, I could see from my old pics that it went into the lower bearing block, so just need to sort out how I attach it.
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