New Align Feathering Shaft

[FNFAL]

Released a few months ago as part of a package up-rating the 600, I'd like to take a closer look at what's involved with the new Align spindle.

While possibly considered an overkill for the 550, it certainly does not hurt for those trying to push the limits of head speed.

The primary change you will see is that the grip bolts grow from a M4 to a M5. To give you an idea of how stout this is, consider the new Blade 700X only uses M4 bolts in this area.

Either way, Align provides the standard cap head socket screws in hi-strength 12.9 alloy.

Another point to note, is that the thrust bearing ID goes from 6mm to 8mm, and the thickness drops 0.5mm. To me that would be a de-rating of the bearing, as cage balls also drop from 2.4mm dia to 2mm dia. The only saving grace is the ball count goes up from 8 to 9.

The reality is that it would be nice to see larger thrust bearings in this area. Unfortunately, we're restricted by the existing grip castings. At speed, even smallish 520 blades can pull around 700-800 lbs of force, so is it any wonder that Align asks you to check these bearings every 20 flights.

Also, I have long gotten rid of the stock Align soft 1mm spindle screw washers (shown in pic as an extra washer). These will cup in no time and can add to the axial slop down the road.

[Atomic Skull]

If you really want beefier grips with 8x16mm bearings the RJX .50 grips and feathering shaft will fit the Align hub perfectly. They're 14mm grips and you need blade washers for 12mm blades, as near as I can tell they are nearly identical, or maybe even identical to the RJX .90 grips (they certainly look exactly the same in pictures though the screw holes for the arms might be different) They also use 30mm blade grip bolts so the Align one is too short.

[FNFAL]

Interesting options...worth a look AS....thanks.

[timay]

I read it and thought it was interesting. The two of you are among the top 550 posters, with tons of good info. Thank you

[FNFAL]

Appreciate the comment T. The 550 is the hotrod heli. Big motor 730 in a tiny 520 frame. Like the Pontiac GTO, or the Triumph TR8, or the M3. This is the tuners heli - so I'm surprised sometimes how slow this forum rolls. With the new spindle we should be able to set our govs for over 3000 rpm and have it live - that's a huge deal.

[Atomic Skull]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

Appreciate the comment T. The 550 is the hotrod heli. Big motor 730 in a tiny 520 frame. Like the Pontiac GTO, or the Triumph TR8, or the M3. This is the tuners heli - so I'm surprised sometimes how slow this forum rolls. With the new spindle we should be able to set our govs for over 3000 rpm and have it live - that's a huge deal.

I still wouldn't trust the blades or the blade grip bolts at that.

I run my 550 at 2100-2150 and I'm still using a 1700 watt motor. I like it for it's size and convenience. Small enough to fly on a soccer field and use a 6S battery but big enough to be a "large" helicopter.

[FNFAL]

I can certainly see the advantages of lower speed. But for the speed freaks, at least there is some performance headroom in a 550 heli running essentially what are 600 or 700 parts.

As far as your comments regarding the M4 blade bolts, don't forget that the blades are trying to shear this shanked bolt in two places, top and bottom. However, for the grip bolts, provided you have enough thread engagement, is pulling in tensile on the minor diameter in one place. As far as blades, most have the wires for catastrophic issues, but I think regular inspection of thrust bearings and any blade cracks will preempt that.

I am going for a reliable 3000 governed with the 2500/5500W kde motor on 520s. Time will tell. But if you calculate the head forces of the 600 at full steam, with the same parts, you can extrapolate back to a crazy 3600 rpm with 520s if you could motivate it.

[Atomic Skull]

The thing that really worries me is the blades either letting go or slinging one of the tip weights out the end like a bullet. A guy lost a finger to this from a Trex 600 on a set of Align blades years ago though that was more due to defective blades than too much HS but it shows how dangerous this can be if it happens.

The other thing I would worry about is over driving the tail. Tail explosions at high HS is why they dropped down to a mod 0.8 auto rotation gear on the V2 and 600 Pro and 3000rpm is even higher.

[FNFAL]

Yah, the tail ratio change works in my favor. I am running short 85 blades and the high quality I2 rotor. Again this is a 700 sized tail rotor. Running a full summer at these speeds would test this out a lot. Too bad it's getting cold here. And accepted, one should only test the speed limits when the heli is clear and away from anyone.

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

Yah, the tail ratio change works in my favor. I am running short 85 blades and the high quality I2 rotor. Again this is a 700 sized tail rotor. Running a full summer at these speeds would test this out a lot. Too bad it's getting cold here. And accepted, one should only test the speed limits when the heli is clear and away from anyone.

Are you running the entire 700 tail piece or just the grips?

[FNFAL]

Do you mean am I running the whole rotor assembly from rc-tek? If so the answer is yes. For the extra money, Bob's assembly is the best. The tailcase/tail shaft is 550/600 sized. Running all 700 (6mm shaft vs 5) would really make it stout!

http://www.rc-tek.com/store/i2rc-dbt...hub-p2310.html


And those running lower HS, can get his triple blade tail, if authority is needed. A little heavy so you'll have to address a little cg mod. You can also run smaller blades if you worry about tail strikes.

http://www.rc-tek.com/store/i2rc-tbt...bly-p2277.html


And no metal aftermarket pitch links for me, just the stock to save on "tennis racket" forces.

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

Do you mean am I running the whole rotor assembly from rc-tek? If so the answer is yes. For the extra money, Bob's assembly is the best. The tailcase/tail shaft is 550/600 sized. Running all 700 would make it stout!

http://www.rc-tek.com/store/i2rc-dbt...hub-p2310.html


And those running lower HS, can get his triple blade tail, if authority is needed. A little heavy so you'll have to address a little cg mod.

http://www.rc-tek.com/store/i2rc-tbt...bly-p2277.html


And no metal aftermarket pitch links, just the stock to save on "tennis racket" forces.

I was referring to the entire gear box. The whole kit and caboodle.
So all your are using is the tail blade grips?


Is this everything needed for the Trex 550 feathering shaft updrade?

Here is the link. http://www.helidirect.com/align-600-...et-p-33139.hdx
I found if I searched for 550 parts I was still coming up with the old one with the 4m Screws.

I love the new 450 Pro Feathering Shaft as well, they should have gone 3M instead of 2.5M though. On the old style 450 ones, I had a bolt break on spool up one morning and sling a blade past me going a quadzillion miles per hour it seemed like. Missed me by ten feet.

I sure don't want 520's turning loose. 700 to 800 lbs is more force than I imagined. being put on the spindle bolts. That' a lot!

[FNFAL]

Yes, that is the spindle retrofit kit. You will use the remaining hardware from your existing setup. The 600 and 550 grip internals are almost the same except for one spindle spacer extra for the 550.

Agreed, an M2 for the 450 is too small now days with higher speeds achieved and stretched blades. OT, but speaking of 450s, not all Tarot stuff is up to grade, but their redesigned head not only has the M2.5 cap screws, but larger radial outboard bearings and thrust bearings in the grips.


Safety wire blades:
http://www.helidirect.com/advanced_s...ckline&x=0&y=0

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

Yes, that is the spindle retrofit kit. You will use the remaining hardware from your existing setup. The 600 and 550 grip internals are almost the same except for one spindle spacer extra for the 550.

Agreed, an M2 for the 450 is too small now days with higher speeds achieved and stretched blades. OT, but speaking of 450s, not all Tarot stuff is up to grade, but their redesigned head not only has the M2.5 cap screws, but larger radial outboard bearings and thrust bearings in the grips.


Safety wire blades:
http://www.helidirect.com/advanced_s...ckline&x=0&y=0

I like the idea of safety wire blades. Does the wire wrap around the blade bushing as well?

[FNFAL]

I don't believe so, but it's molded in. Others have done it before, but these SAB look really great too. Upon impact the idea is not to have fragments flying all over hitting people.

[Atomic Skull]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

I don't believe so, but it's molded in. Others have done it before, but these SAB look really great too. Upon impact the idea is not to have fragments flying all over hitting people.

And a side effect is that the blades will now act like flails and further damage your helicopter so that SAB gets to sell you even more parts to repair it.

[Drivelayer]

I understand it is 8mm is diameter, but how long is it?

[Nspector8]

92.2mm