Gyrobot 900

[fraser1818]

Just setup my new Gyrobot. It was by far the easiest FBL I have ever done. Took about 10 minutes, No sh##. I will fly it tomorrow but it hovered fine in my basement with my Trex 500.

[rickn816]

Originally Posted by fraser1818

Just setup my new Gyrobot. It was by far the easiest FBL I have ever done. Took about 10 minutes, No sh##. I will fly it tomorrow but it hovered fine in my basement with my Trex 500.

At this time, IMO, that is the best hardware.

I set one up on a HoneyBee King II, and it would piro so fast the machine was a blur.

Rick

[popokatepetl]

Try to hover and only do some elavator movement with hard stops. I just can't make it crispy. It feel like the blades were made from rubber! It bounces +-5 cm (10cm in total)...it's not the oscilation as it stops.

I'm running around 3000RPM

could you please check it and post your video maybe? I'll do mine to show you what I mean...


Thanks

[fraser1818]

Only half a flight. To cold. Dialed in fairly close in two curuits.
Will take another 10 batteries to explore it all and dial in. I was so damn impressed, I could not make the Trex pitch up, and believe me I try everything I knew.

Can't wait for the weather. Its going to be a fun year.
This afternoon I am putting a Vbar on on my Outrage 500.
Currently flying another Trex 500 with an SJGD FS600.
Want to know what works the best for me.

[fraser1818]

popokatepetl

Post your settings, mine was crisp.

[popokatepetl]

MSH Protos

around 3000RPM governed by Kontronik JIVE
6S 2600mAh Hyperion G3 (35C)

servos:

swash - SAVOX SH-1250MG
rudder- SAVOX SH-1290MG

all running at 6V - BEC Kontronik can deliver peaks up to 15A

GyroBot 700
mounted under the main shaft, perpendicular to the main shaft.

Rudder
I= 250
P= 400

Ail
I=370
P=250

Elev
I=420
P=300

My setup procedure is very simple:
Rudder
I=350, P=350
- stop from pirouetes crisp
- rudder was turning CCW during pitch pumping so I had to rise the P and lowered the I. I've tried to rised the I and lowered the P but then I got the oscilation. Now it feels quite well.
- servos set in Gyrobot as Futaba 9254

Swash
- I=400
- P= 250
- all look fine but the tail is bouncing when I stop from elev inputs. So I tried to rise I or P but all get worse when I do so. I just can't rise either one. I think I'm missing something important in the P/I setup. As I've tried two different heads with different architecure I believe, that it's the electronic. I'm 100% sure that all basic settings made in GB is OK - checked by two different people.

Bouncing description:
- it stops like if the blades were made of rubber. Absolutelly not crisp!
- it's not the oscilation as it stops after some bounces.
- the head is hard enough as I've tried different dumpers used by others without issues

btw see the picture

[life2short1971]

[fraser1818]

popokatepetl

Lower the "I" in your elevator, it is to high. Lower in increments of 50 until the bounce goes away. You may have to lower the "P" but maybe not. Raising I was incorrect.
How is the aireron. What is your feedback.

[kennethw]

From your picture, it looks like you are running a Trailing Edge setup. There is an ongoing 'debate' about this. Might this be the problem?

Your GyroBot is mounted very very close to the Motor, would this cause any electrical interferrance?

Also, is your headspeed a little high for a 500-size? For the TREX 500, they recommend (according to the manual) not going over 2650RPM.

[popokatepetl]

1) The leading edge has been switched. I just didn't change it on the picture.

2) Too close to the motor? I don't know if it's the problem since there are many others with it like this.

3) Protos isn't T-rex and it can handle this RPM. I've seen 3000+ which makes the Protos rock and T-rex ...behind

[rickn816]

Originally Posted by popokatepetl

Try to hover and only do some elavator movement with hard stops. I just can't make it crispy. It feel like the blades were made from rubber! It bounces +-5 cm (10cm in total)...it's not the oscilation as it stops.

I'm running around 3000RPM

could you please check it and post your video maybe? I'll do mine to show you what I mean...


Thanks

Re-read the manual. They advise lower headspeeds.

Rick

[fraser1818]

Well I have it done. You know how you wish that something could do everything you want. Well my Gyrobot now does that. I cannot believe what flying is like now. I was so nervous about spending the money and finding that it sorta works.

Smokin, thats all I can say.

[rickn816]

Originally Posted by fraser1818

Well I have it done. You know how you wish that something could do everything you want. Well my Gyrobot now does that. I cannot believe what flying is like now. I was so nervous about spending the money and finding that it sorta works.

Smokin, thats all I can say.

This is fun. We are on the edge of a whole new level of technology in our hobby.

Rick

[FLAME747]

Originally Posted by fraser1818

Well I have it done. You know how you wish that something could do everything you want. Well my Gyrobot now does that. I cannot believe what flying is like now. I was so nervous about spending the money and finding that it sorta works.

Smokin, thats all I can say.

Are you using the 700 or 900 series, if it's the latter - how was the setup process and how long did it take you to dial it in, I need feedback on the beginners mode

Thanks,

FCA

[rickn816]

Originally Posted by FLAME747

Are you using the 700 or 900 series, if it's the latter - how was the setup process and how long did it take you to dial it in, I need feedback on the beginners mode

Thanks,

FCA

The Beginner Mode (and Beginner Acro) both work. Under Beginner Acro, I flipped my HoneyBee King II, and it stayed level until I flipped it back. Very solid. Maybe too solid.

The downside of the beginner modes is that the heli flies like a coaxial. That is, when you move the stick to neutral, the heli levels itself. It does not maintain the original orientation. To move forward, you must move the elevator stick forward (up) and hold it there. When you release it, the heli moves back to horizontal.

So, with that in mind, you are learing to fly a large co-axial heli that looks like a collective pitch heli. You are building muscle memory that will not necessarily translate to normal flight.

Again, the Beginner and Beginner Acro modes work as advertised. The GyroBot hardware is very good. However, there are less expensive alternatives . . .

Rick

[FLAME747]

I think I read that with the GyroBot 900 you cannot it change the flight modes during flight, for example lift off with the system off, then turn on lets say to Beginner Acro then off again

[rickn816]

Originally Posted by FLAME747

I think I read that with the GyroBot 900 you cannot it change the flight modes during flight, for example lift off with the system off, then turn on lets say to Beginner Acro then off again

Correct. The manual warns against this in red type.

Rick

[kennethw]

Originally Posted by FLAME747

I think I read that with the GyroBot 900 you cannot it change the flight modes during flight, for example lift off with the system off, then turn on lets say to Beginner Acro then off again

Physically, you can, but not advisable unless you know the heli is 100% level. You can switch between the 2 beginner modes no problem (I think).

[CF_Machete]

if you switch between modes, say from normal to beginner acro, the gyrobot will assume that what ever angle it is at (when flip your mode swich) is level...and will return to the level point when your cyclic is released.i belie it samples "level" every 15 to 30 seconds, so you may end up fighting the gyro a bit.

I had a similar experience when my friend hand launched my gaui 200 with a gyrobot 900 in acro mode.....it was a little hairy for 15 or so second but then went back to normal.