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09-29-2009, 10:47 PM | #61 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2008
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So which is to get??
I plan to get a set of bearing. Should I get the ss bearing or the ceramic??I figure the ceramic will outlast the other parts (piston, ring cylinder) on the engine anyway so by bearing that last too long unless the ss ones are not lasting long enough..
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09-30-2009, 12:52 AM | #62 (permalink) |
Join Date: Aug 2004
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The SS will last a long time. Usually a lot longer than the OEM bearings.
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10-05-2009, 11:37 AM | #63 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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Wow night and day! Much thanks for the video.
I think why it fails is related to the engine position. *not often we here of same issue with the planes engine mounts differently for one. I also think the rear bearing takes most of the load possibly ? because the crank is closer to it then the front?? |
10-05-2009, 11:38 AM | #64 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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Oh yea, and Thanks to RC_Bearings for the FINE SS bearings I replaced 2 weeks ago.
So affordable and well worth the time to replace. Its like a new engine. I got two years out of the stock bearings on my OS with about 24 gallons of fuel before it started making noise. |
10-05-2009, 01:58 PM | #65 (permalink) | |
Join Date: Aug 2004
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Quote:
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10-29-2009, 11:13 PM | #66 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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duuuuhhhh
i have been in and out of my heli looking for what the noise was and until this thread i didnt think of the rear bearings, this is also the first nitro i have had and i got the engine used so it is time for a bearing change and at least i will know how much wear they have on them.cool thanx to rc-bearings for the ss bearings for dirt cheap that is my kinda site good products for a good price. col i cant wait for the mail to bring the package im grounded untilthey get here so come on mailman.
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JS TZ Frenzy V2 , TT53 w/os50carb w/MP5 , hyperion digital servos all around, jr 7703d , CTG, SPECTRUM 7000, DX7 SE. MAH 600 CARBONS and a carbsmart(soon to get a multigov proand a ar7100R) i might get a fury 55, or i really like the velocity 50 its nice |
10-30-2009, 09:46 AM | #67 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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Sounds like ball bearings rattling around in a coffee can You now will know immediately when your bearings go bad from now on.
Last edited by simmer; 11-02-2009 at 10:26 AM.. |
11-01-2009, 05:09 PM | #68 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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yea thats the sound alright i found that problem and now the seam on my mp5 has let loose it will turn if i give it a strong twist. not my week for heli problems. well one problem at a time right. thanx fellows .
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JS TZ Frenzy V2 , TT53 w/os50carb w/MP5 , hyperion digital servos all around, jr 7703d , CTG, SPECTRUM 7000, DX7 SE. MAH 600 CARBONS and a carbsmart(soon to get a multigov proand a ar7100R) i might get a fury 55, or i really like the velocity 50 its nice |
11-02-2009, 10:33 AM | #69 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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consider the Hatori 522 (NOT the bobby watts as I feel its over priced.)
Look at this one for 85 bucks http://www.cyberheli.com/shop-produc...ProductID=6008 been doing biz with Cyberheli for a long whiloe and they have great service. If you search you may find it in the states, but its out of stock currently http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=8419 Google search you might be surprized. It is better than the Align (not as shiny but will last forever!) |
11-22-2010, 12:12 PM | #70 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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My OS 50 hyper started making this sound as well as in this video.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC6oVBWP6pw[/ame] I will take out the motor and check all the bolts, but guess the suggested solution is the rear bearing replacement. From Rc Bearings, now I just have to decide on Ceramic or Stainless. http://www.rc-bearings.com/catalog/i...cPath=65_73_74 |
11-22-2010, 01:40 PM | #71 (permalink) |
Join Date: Aug 2004
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Just go for the stainless. They are a lot less expensive and last a lot longer than OEM. I may be phasing out the ceramics as I don't sell all that many any more.
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11-22-2010, 07:32 PM | #72 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Boca vs Rc Bearing, I'm looking to purchase tomorrow, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
This would be for my OS50 Hyper, and looking to change out both bearings. For the RCBearing, any expierence with either of the higher priced choices below? OS 50-55 Hyper Ceramic $27.19 OS 50-55 Hyper Stainless Steel $12.29 OS 50-55 Hyper Stainless Steel Ceramic $31.99 Thanks Last edited by Praztek; 11-23-2010 at 07:47 AM.. |
11-23-2010, 09:04 AM | #73 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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I'm going with the Boca's.
High Speed 34.90 |
12-02-2010, 07:26 PM | #75 (permalink) |
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Praztek,
Wow, that motor is making some serious "racket"! Let us know what you find when you take it apart.. I guess I've never heard bad bearings before, but I wasn't expecting that much noise from them.. Also, props to Paul at RC-Bearings, and to Mercuriell for all the info! I tried following the "Old" video and wound up destroying a front bearing by trying to pull the crank through the case with a prop and nut.. The heat method is WAY better in my opinion..
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TRex 700DFC CC 120HV/VBar TRex 500 ESP/FBL CC Ice100, MiniVBar TRex 600LE/ OS50/ Full Size VBar/ Arizona Regulator , FrankenBlade 400/Sonic head and tail/CF Frame, Blade MSR, Bunch o' planks.. DX7/Futaba 9C |
12-03-2010, 07:03 AM | #76 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Its all fixed, purchased the high speed ss bearings from Boca.
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12-10-2010, 07:44 AM | #77 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2008
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I love the OS engine. It idles well and produces good power but it eats rear bearings for snacks inbetween fuelings.
This might be a little lengthy but it's important. Always heat the case. Use a heat gun or oven just enough to be able to knock the bearing out by slapping it down on a wooden bench. Use a main shaft to push the fwd bearing out, little tap ok. Remove both shields on the rear and one of the shields on the front. This allows plenty of lube. The front bearing rarely wears out but replace both as a set. Put the new high quality high speed front bearing inplace. Put the rear bearing on the crank. Slide it all the way down to the counter weight. Slide the crank in and assemble the fan hub etc normally (don't forget the washer). Tighten the nut until it's snug. No blue torque like in some of the videos (torque it till you're blue in the face). This must be done while the case is still hot. It aligns the bearings and ensures they are resting on the shoulders of the case and prevents damaging the bores. If you have to start cranking on the nut with alot of muscle, reheat the case. It should go in as easy as it came out. The accelerated wear comes from pinching the front and rear bearings. If the case is machined to long inbetween the bearing shoulders, the bearings are preloaded too much. When you gorrilla grip the wrench and tighten the nut too tight, it makes it worse. Poof. We're talking several 10 thousandths of an inch here. Once everything is cool loosen the hub nut. Everything should turn very freely. Very. If not then tap the crank loose and push it back in. Snug the nut down. Check the freedom of rotation again. If it has changed, you just preloaded the bearings. This comes from pushing the inner race of the front bearing onto the crank shoulder preventing the inner race from spinning on the crank (if it does you might as well not have a bearing, its a bushing). This pulls the crank forward against the rear bearing inner race pinching/preloading the both of them. Not much you can do about the machining but you can minimize the problem. If you notice a change in the freedom of rotation, loosen the nut just slightly. Check it again. Do this untill the freedom of rotation is as close as you can get it to the loose nut condition. Use PLENTY of locktite on the nut. Torque keeps a nut tight, not locktite. Here the locktite might have to do the job. Even if the inner race is just touching the crank, washer and nut, the inner race will still be driven by the crank. The tight clearance of the crank/inner race and the loading will still keep them both spinning together but there must be some torque on the nut, even if its just finger tight. Contradicts what I said earlier but that's been my experience and was able to get 14 gallons through the engine with good bearings. If the bearing bore is too tight this can squish the bearing. Nothing you can do here unless you have a good milling machine and a good machinist. Its tough though, again you might be removing 0.0005" evenly all the way around the bore. Cold cranking at the end of the day seems to be a good way of blowing out most the alcohol that absorbs moisture. If you had the coffee can syndrome replace the connecting rod. It has been slapping up against the case. You should be able to see evidence of this if you look closely. The little bushing inside the con rod is toast. IMO the timing is advanced a little too much. Add a head shim to retard it a little. The engine will idle even better, run smoother tune easier and you'll probably not notice any decrease in power unless your a heavy duty 3D flyer. Even then it might not make a noticeable difference. The manufacturer can't take into account your operating altitude and temperature. That tunning tip from RC Heli magazine several years ago. I installed a KME crankshaft a while back and ported the engine. I went back to a stock case and KME crank and it made great power. Just swap it out, no machining needed. The port and bore inside the crank is larger than the stock hyper crank. Mo Power, longer life, more opportunities to crash. Good luck.
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