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Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room - Tips and how-To Videos


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Old 11-27-2008, 11:14 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Ooops..... sorry link fixed!
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:27 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks!
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Old 11-28-2008, 02:59 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Bob, will you be doing Fireup's static fix on this one?
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Old 11-28-2008, 04:41 PM   #24 (permalink)
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nice vids Bob!
One little advice: itīs better to finally fit the (lower)servoframe to the mainframe with the main shaft inserted into the 3 bearings. Otherwise there can be a misalignment of the mainshaft and its running too stiff.
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Bob, will you be doing Fireup's static fix on this one?
I don't even think static is an issue if you use the new pinions. The newest pinions are conductive and as you know their is only 1 continuous belt in the gear train. In my opinion any static charge would be stripped by the motor/motor mount. I did NO static mods to my airframe (one of the newest protos kits) and never had a static problem.

The original pinions had an anodized coating and were not conductive.
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I don't even think static is an issue if you use the new pinions. The newest pinions are conductive and as you know their is only 1 continuous belt in the gear train. In my opinion any static charge would be stripped by the motor/motor mount. I did NO static mods to my airframe (one of the newest protos kits) and never had a static problem.

The original pinions had an anodized coating and were not conductive.
Cool! Hadn't heard about the new pinions. I'll check that off the list.
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Old 11-28-2008, 09:47 PM   #27 (permalink)
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An essential build point if your using JR servos (or any other servos that don't fit neatly into the plastic mounting plates) is to build the servo frames and main frames with the main shaft in all 3 bearings. Make sure it spins freely with the servos and frames tight in the frame.

I found the best way to do this is to mount the servos loosely in the servo frames (at the top AND bottom of the mounts). Begin to bolt the main frames together and follow the video at this point. Bolt the TOP servo frames to both sides of the main frame but leave the 6 BOTTOM servo frame bolts loose! Assemble the rest of the frame. Make sure you main shaft is spinning freely and tighten the servos into the top servo frames first. Then push the servo frame against the servos to square everything up and tighten the servo frames to the main frame. Finally tighten the bottom servo mounts in place. Check your main shaft again just to be sure!

I used some carbon fiber servo plates from custom heli works instead of messing with cutting the plastic ones included in the kit.
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:52 AM   #28 (permalink)
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An essential build point if your using JR servos (or any other servos that don't fit neatly into the plastic mounting plates) is to build the servo frames and main frames with the main shaft in all 3 bearings. Make sure it spins freely with the servos and frames tight in the frame.

I found the best way to do this is to mount the servos loosely in the servo frames (at the top AND bottom of the mounts). Begin to bolt the main frames together and follow the video at this point. Bolt the TOP servo frames to both sides of the main frame but leave the 6 BOTTOM servo frame bolts loose! Assemble the rest of the frame. Make sure you main shaft is spinning freely and tighten the servos into the top servo frames first. Then push the servo frame against the servos to square everything up and tighten the servo frames to the main frame. Finally tighten the bottom servo mounts in place. Check your main shaft again just to be sure!

I used some carbon fiber servo plates from custom heli works instead of messing with cutting the plastic ones included in the kit.
I had the excact same experience, and fixed it the same way.
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Old 11-29-2008, 06:48 AM   #29 (permalink)
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That is indeed a good method, i also tighten the frames with the shaft in.
Regarding static, to be sure with Spektrum satellite Rx'es..
I mount it on the lower back of the frame, not on the side of the boomblock, which seems a nice place at first.
There is plenty of room, and the cables can be nicely run inside the frame.
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Old 11-29-2008, 09:47 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I was getting ready to shoot the next segment which is installing the main shaft and noticed it was tight. I realized right then what the adjustment was. I will be covering that in the next video and yes it means loosing up the screws for the servo/main bearing blocks.

Thanks for the tips guys!

Bob
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Old 11-29-2008, 12:02 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Finless,
I have to say, I am so glad you have decided to make this video. I will rely on this and the manual to build my new protos up. I have not cracked the box yet and its been sitting for about 2 weeks now. Seems my timing is pretty good.

I am sure I am not along in wishing you many thanks for the time and effort you put into doing all your build vodeos. You are making a big contribution to the hobby by taking your time and doing these builds and as I am sure you have heard before, it bears repeating. Thank you Thank you Thank you!
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Old 11-29-2008, 12:05 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Finless,
I have to say, I am so glad you have decided to make this video. I will rely on this and the manual to build my new protos up. I have not cracked the box yet and its been sitting for about 2 weeks now. Seems my timing is pretty good.

I am sure I am not along in wishing you many thanks for the time and effort you put into doing all your build vodeos. You are making a big contribution to the hobby by taking your time and doing these builds and as I am sure you have heard before, it bears repeating. Thank you Thank you Thank you!
X 1000 im building right along also
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Old 11-29-2008, 12:11 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.....

Talk about pressure! I hope you guys build slowly as this will take 1-2 weeks to finish schedule permitting!

Bob
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:09 PM   #34 (permalink)
 

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I dont mind as long as you get it done by Christmas.... I dont get to open my box until the big day! My wifes had it and put it away.

I am a bit worried about this ESD, or brownout issue. Are you going to add in any mods to help alleviate these issues? Anyone know if the chinese weights are available for the protos?

Thanks for doing the build, I'm building mine along to the vids im saving as you do them. Im in the UK, was wondering if your JR X9303, transmitter is the same as the 9X2, that will help set mine up too!
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:36 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Thanks for doing the build, I'm building mine along to the vids im saving as you do them. Im in the UK, was wondering if your JR X9303, transmitter is the same as the 9X2, that will help set mine up too!
yes they are the same......yours is just the European version.
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:45 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Anyone know if the chinese weights are available for the protos?
I donīt think that chinese weights are needed for the protos, because the lightweight tailbladeholder donīt produce that much countermomentum. I donīt have any problems with the not-that-strong-S9257 on the tail so far.
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Old 11-29-2008, 04:48 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I am a bit worried about this ESD, or brownout issue. Are you going to add in any mods to help alleviate these issues? Anyone know if the chinese weights are available for the protos?
See my post on the issue earlier in this thread. I don't believe any static mods are necessary with the new pinions.

The tail grips have integrated chinese weights built in.
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:30 PM   #38 (permalink)
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yes tail balde holders have the weights this is a feature

"The tail grips with integrated Chinese weights so even with a mini size tail servo can have the same performance as a full size tail servo "
"
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:52 AM   #39 (permalink)
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That is indeed a good method, i also tighten the frames with the shaft in.
Regarding static, to be sure with Spektrum satellite Rx'es..
I mount it on the lower back of the frame, not on the side of the boomblock, which seems a nice place at first.
There is plenty of room, and the cables can be nicely run inside the frame.
I have done this and have also made a small notch (rectagular hole) in the middle of the frames just above where you have mounted the remote rx. I then put the gyro under the tail boom so all of the wires can be feed directly through it, rather than around the side of the frame.

I will be maidening my Protos this week and with the new silver pinion and remote rx mounted down low I am not going to do the other static mods with wires.

//Dennis.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:31 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I am going to build it completely stock first and see if I have a static problem or not. Same for any tail weight mods, etc....

Bob
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