Relocated Beast X - Photo

[stevebaker]

From what I've read searching the forums, chances are my problem is vibe related.

Most vibe related BeastX issues are solved by simply re-mounting the unit using 3M 4011 tape instead of stock tape.

Also the boom support has less vibes on it - you can feel the difference by removing the main blades and feeling both positions under power. That and the fact that the unit on the boom support can't touch the frame sides as it might under the frame during hard manoeuvres.

So lots of reasons really

[JustPlaneChris]

Originally Posted by bradharvy

May I ask, what would it matter, tilt wise flying, where your bx is?

The issue with the stock location is that it's a very tight fit in the frame! The opening in the frame is 29mm, and the AR7200BX is 28mm. .5mm clearance on each side? If it isn't installed EXACTLY right, it's going to be touching the frame. This transmits vibrations to the unit, which it interprets as movement, which results in drifting / tilting.

I agree it looks nice tucked in the frame, but it is not a very practical place to mount it IMO, considering the dimensions.

[stevebaker]

Chris

I went with your pig tails idea but as I'm crap at tying knots my floss kept coming undone
Went back to the trusty zip-ties in the end

[JustPlaneChris]

Steve, it takes some practice! The real trick with floss is to go around and tie a knot, then take the ends and go around again, and tie a 2nd knot.

[bradharvy]

Very good reasoning! Lol. Wasn't really thinking about the unit being too close to the frame. Still new to fbl controllers. Right on. I will re-think.. The first thing HH asked my brother when he called is, did you remount the bx? Duno if that was good or bad, or they were trying to weasle out of a repair! take care..

[shreddedpaper]

One flight and already modding. Thanks for the tips in this thread, I like the mount better.

[stevebaker]

I can confirm that relocating the BX on different mounting tape has cured my tilting problems - I can now actually fly it again without risk of crashing!!

Must be getting vibes somewhere even though they aren't apparent - maybe some bearings wearing or something. Anyway the BX is less susceptible to vibe problems in its new place so thanks for posting this in the first place Jaydekay and sharing your idea.

[dr_boom]

Originally Posted by Hubschrauberpilot

DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLE TIE FROM THE AR7200BX !!!

I have done it, and soon encountered a permanet drift/roll to the right at higher speed (even with carbon blades).
The beastX obviously needs to be strapped to the (weak) frame on this little light heli !

Wow! This exact same thing happened to me. Fortunately it only cost a main gear. I put another cablie tie on and everything is good again. I have it as tight as It goes, and the frame touches both sides of the beastX firmly. Perhaps without the tie only one side of the frame touches which causes the issue. I cannot verify unless I take the tie back off.

[dr_boom]

If I were to move the BX to the frame upright, would F, M, and N still need to be changed? I realize that A would need to be. I've not messed with a BeastX before and would appreciate any help. Thanks.

[TomC]

If you are going to change the location you should really go through and reset/check all servo related settings and of course orientation mounting A as you mentioned.

Not sure if this location is much better than stock, but easier to see/adjust (and it looks better than on top imho). Probably will also need a nytie wraped around it.

Please let us know how you make out with this. Thanks.

Cheers,
TomC

[wavekatcher]

I just finished the relocation. 1st time going thru the BeastX setup. Fairly simple actually. Now to see how she flies....

If you are still using the box the 300x came in (like my cheap a**) make sure and cut away the styrofoam that the beastx will hit when put in the box

[moscin]

Had a servo fail in flight yesterday so had to do a rebuild. The upside is I finally moved my BeastX. Used some 3M 4010 tape and covered the servo wires. Flies even smoother now. I think I had some small vibes from the BeastX touching the frame before I moved it.

[dr_boom]

Originally Posted by moscin

Had a servo fail in flight yesterday so had to do a rebuild. The upside is I finally moved my BeastX. Used some 3M 4010 tape and covered the servo wires. Flies even smoother now. I think I had some small vibes from the BeastX touching the frame before I moved it.

Great job wrapping the servo wires moscin.

TomC, putting the BX on the side did not solve the pitch right issue for me. The frame there is just too flexible and prone to vibration imo. I moved it to the top platform and that worked. Now to wrap the servo wires like moscin.

[mixfisto]

Originally Posted by moscin

Had a servo fail in flight yesterday so had to do a rebuild. The upside is I finally moved my BeastX. Used some 3M 4010 tape and covered the servo wires. Flies even smoother now. I think I had some small vibes from the BeastX touching the frame before I moved it.

Nice!

Where did you get those 'wrap' tubes for the cables?

[TomC]

Originally Posted by dr_boom

Great job wrapping the servo wires moscin.

TomC, putting the BX on the side did not solve the pitch right issue for me. The frame there is just too flexible and prone to vibration imo. I moved it to the top platform and that worked. Now to wrap the servo wires like moscin.

Thanks for letting me know about your side-mounting experiment. Looked good on paper, lol!

Sorry moscin, but that is the ugliest thing I've ever seen (except for the great braiding job). Looks like a colon bypass, lol! The weight of all those wires plus the fact that your BX is hanging on a ledge, not tied down, looks like an accident waiting to happen imho. Go back to the very first post and look at jaydekay's installation. This looks like the best relocated one I've seen to date.

Personally, I don't have any issues with either of my 300x's with the Bx in the stock position, firmly nytied down. I did spend a bit of time (probably a whole 30 minutes) getting rid of all vibs to begin with.

This mainly involved tightening all frame and mainshaft screws, balancing the main blades, checking/adjusting tail belt tension, and dynamically balancing the tail blades.

The stock location makes it a bit of a pain to see all the lights easily, but far from impossible. Startup is pretty straight forward. Wait for the beeps and the swash up/down dance and you are good to go. Reading an earlier post saying a guy needed to pack a mirror to the field in order to see the Bx blue light kills me, lol!

By all means, relocate anything to anywhere you like if you think it will help. Just don't buy in to everything to hear on this, or any other forum (incl my posts, lol!).

Cheers,
TomC

[moscin]

Originally Posted by mixfisto

Nice!

Where did you get those 'wrap' tubes for the cables?

It is sold by many hobby shops. Amainhobbies and Hobbyking carry it for sure, try searching "servo wire cover" or something similar. I ended up using 1/8” Expandable Mesh Sleeving from McMaster-Carr because it was inexpensive with cheap shipping options. I cut to length and used black heat shrink tubing on each end to prevent fraying.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ca...eeving/=j466u0

There are also a number of threads in which people comment on the merits of their favorite brands.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=186654
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=430764

The next time I do it I'll probably experiment with routing the wires different directions but as it stands everything is very secure and zip tied to the frame. Added weight on the Beastx is minimal if any.

[mixfisto]

Originally Posted by moscin

It is sold by many hobby shops. Amainhobbies and Hobbyking carry it for sure, try searching "servo wire cover" or something similar. I ended up using 1/8” Expandable Mesh Sleeving from McMaster-Carr because it was inexpensive with cheap shipping options. I cut to length and used black heat shrink tubing on each end to prevent fraying.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ca...eeving/=j466u0

There are also a number of threads in which people comment on the merits of their favorite brands.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=186654
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=430764

The next time I do it I'll probably experiment with routing the wires different directions but as it stands everything is very secure and zip tied to the frame. Added weight on the Beastx is minimal if any.

Thanks, will check out now!

[Blackanthem]

Ok I am sold on this. So cliff notes. Once I relocate the BeastX , what menu and what color do the lights need to be set at.
Thanks.

[Nintyfive]

Originally Posted by Blackanthem

Ok I am sold on this. So cliff notes. Once I relocate the BeastX , what menu and what color do the lights need to be set at.
Thanks.

So what setting do we have to change? I just compare the 300x settings to the 450x and the only differences besides servo frequencies are
F= solid red
N=Solid red

Why change M again on the 300x?

[TomC]

Originally Posted by Blackanthem

Ok I am sold on this. So cliff notes. Once I relocate the BeastX , what menu and what color do the lights need to be set at.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Nintyfive

So what setting do we have to change? I just compare the 300x settings to the 450x and the only differences besides servo frequencies are
F= solid red
N=Solid red

Why change M again on the 300x?

If you guys do not know enough about how to setup an ar7200bx unit from scratch, I'd leave it in the stock position where it works fine imho,

Cheers,
TomC