issues so far

[BaconRaygun]

Originally Posted by keither1984

I will try and get video but my camcorder is a samsung galaxy cell phone so qualitly wont be very good. by the way guys I am not trying to hate on the warp and still have tuning to do but as of right now with the same headspeed the minip feels lighter in the air and just feels over all soother to me. just my opinion.

but I must say the more tweaking im doing to the warp the more im liking it, the cyclic feels really crisp collective is real linear. 2800rpm is good for some basic flight which is about all im good at, of course 2800 is plenty if you have collective management. I think 3300 is the sweet spot for me much more responsive.

im not a very good pilot and these are just my opinons Im really starting to like the warp alot more though its really growing on me. and its little bigger stance does make it easier to see.

the compass main blades are extremly lite and agile blades anyone else notice how fast a blade they are

Well, that's good to hear... But at the risk of sounding mean, for the love of god, can we get some commas and periods?

[frito169]

I also don't like the fact that the tail drive is attached to the main gear so in autos you'll have little to no tail control.

[Jeff_Barrett]

Originally Posted by frito169

I also don't like the fact that the tail drive is attached to the main gear so in autos you'll have little to no tail control.

Your tail should weathervane and on a heli this small with those light little blades, it will not auto well with the additional drag of the tail ... this is why it is designed as such.

[r1sportbike]

Originally Posted by keither1984

not the same motor but proably very close may actually be the same motor its the msh scorpion 1300kv motor for 6s very similar.

I have 2 Warps that are set up identical, except the motors. One has Compass motor, the other MSH. They do not fly the same.

[ahunter852]

Hi guys
Just want to ask the axial play in the blade grip is normal right? I have atleast 3 mm of movement. I'm trying to maiden mine right now and I'm having some serious wobbles! Just wandering weather it is this or that my 3s lipo can't bring the head speed up enough ( still waiting for my 6s lipos.) but I have the TC on 100% which when compared to the low headspeed video we've all seen and love should be adequate.

Just wandering if it might be te play in the head.

Thanks
Alex

[NewR]

Originally Posted by ahunter852

Hi guys
Just want to ask the axial play in the blade grip is normal right? I have atleast 3 mm of movement. I'm trying to maiden mine right now and I'm having some serious wobbles! Just wandering weather it is this or that my 3s lipo can't bring the head speed up enough ( still waiting for my 6s lipos.) but I have the TC on 100% which when compared to the low headspeed video we've all seen and love should be adequate.

Just wandering if it might be te play in the head.

Thanks
Alex

Axial play in the grip is normal and is mentioned in the manual. Once it is in flight, centripetal force will pull every outward with such force that wouldn't believe.

3s???

[keither1984]

How do they compare to you? Which one has more power? I know my compass motor comes down cooler.

Originally Posted by r1sportbike

I have 2 Warps that are set up identical, except the motors. One has Compass motor, the other MSH. They do not fly the same.

[s0laris]

I am still building mine and so far it has been a very long build. So many parts.

The problems I have had so far are the tight links (i need to buy a tool as I never needed one in the past).

I am mounting a 14mm tail servo and the carbon fiber plates for the larger bolts are too small and the nylon lock nuts are non existant.

The tail lever arm hub is plastic???!!!

That looks like a recipe for disaster.

That's it so far. I have long way to go.

[rdavis]

Gents... For what its worth, I too have had what I consider a few minor issues but Nankin has replaced or helped with the issues and mailed out replacement parts at their expense, priority mail! The customer service is insane and on par with other quality heli brands. I have build first a first run Goblin 700, Synergy E6/7 and had minor issues with both, and they too were quick to follow up with a fix. Actually the only bird that I have ever build with no tweaking or issues at all was my TDR, but the cost is several hundred more than the Goblin or Synergy when comparing bare bones kits... like $400(+-) more.

My opinion is first run of any manufactured product leaves room for improvement and should be taken into consideration when making a buying decision.

The Warp, once finished, is rock solid and the mechanics are very smooth. Yeah some of the plastic bits need to be improved but this thing handles like its on rails and on par with my 600 size bird. I'm running 2000HS, 2800, and 3400 at the top end. Only my TDR has this kind of range...

Enjoy...

[s0laris]

... nevermind. fixed it

[Bob O]

Except for the tail case on my 6HV, pretty much the rest of it was plastic. On my Titan X50, except for the tail grips, the rest is nearly all plastic, even where the pitch control lever mounts.

I guess I'm not seeing the problem. This piece is so small, how can it flex? It shouldn't move one bit unless the curved part of it doesn't match the curved part of the boom. Then I can see it moving. Mine is rock solid. Again :

[s0laris]

Originally Posted by Bob O

Except for the tail case on my 6HV, pretty much the rest of it was plastic. On my Titan X50, except for the tail grips, the rest is nearly all plastic, even where the pitch control lever mounts.

I guess I'm not seeing the problem. This piece is so small, how can it flex? It shouldn't move one bit unless the curved part of it doesn't match the curved part of the boom. Then I can see it moving. Mine is rock solid. Again :

Ok. It is mostly likely ignorance on my part. Every heli to date I have build has a metal tail lever hub. I used a lot of ca on the screw to be sure nothing happens.

[NewR]

There seem to be a lot of friction changing the tail pitch. The tail control arm by itself moves very freely, the tail pitch slider by itself moves very freely also. As soon as the ball in control arm is sat into the pitch slider it can hardly move. I applied some triflow grease and that didn't help. Thinking of resizing the hole but not sure since the material seems like rubber instead of plastic. The tail control links also moves freely on the balls.

[Stevemech]

I used a tarot ball on the pitch slider which fit the compass link , otherwise you need to resize the cup.Mine is friction free but the pivot bracket still flexes more then I'm used to.
Steve

[Jason O'Connell]

Originally Posted by NewR

There seem to be a lot of friction changing the tail pitch. The tail control arm by itself moves very freely, the tail pitch slider by itself moves very freely also. As soon as the ball in control arm is sat into the pitch slider it can hardly move. I applied some triflow grease and that didn't help. Thinking of resizing the hole but not sure since the material seems like rubber instead of plastic. The tail control links also moves freely on the balls.

Yes you need to size the bushing if you want it slippery smooth, I used a jr ball link reamer.

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by BarnStormer

Yes you need to size the bushing if you want it slippery smooth, I used a jr ball link reamer.

+1

I did the same thing with the same sizer set to the smallest position.

Sent from my phone

[NewR]

Thanks guys!! Almost done with the build. Need to install servo horns and tail
rod then elec setup!! Have the warp canopy next to the mini and Trex pro canopies and it is HUGE.

[s0laris]

One issue i had and maybe its because I am stupid lol.. Is i could NOT get the pulley ssembly to slide in from the side. it was just too big to fit.

ended up just removing one framse side and placing it in that way

Also it mentions a Washer. I assume that goes inbetween the pulley and lower bearing block.

[Jason O'Connell]

Originally Posted by s0laris

One issue i had and maybe its because I am stupid lol.. Is i could NOT get the pulley ssembly to slide in from the side. it was just too big to fit.

ended up just removing one framse side and placing it in that way

Also it mentions a Washer. I assume that goes inbetween the pulley and lower bearing block.

There have been a few who could not get their pully in without slight sanding of the opening in the frame. I was lucky not to be one of them. I have heard that not much sanding is required to fix it.

Yes the washer goes on top of the pulley between the pulley and the lower bearing block.

[njs77]

Originally Posted by NewR

Have the warp canopy next to the mini and Trex pro canopies and it is HUGE.

Pictures please