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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 12-08-2016, 12:16 AM   #21
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From what I can see it looks fine, you will finally know for sure when the motor and pinion are assembled and meshed with the main gear. Worst case scenario the motor mounting slots can be stretched with a round needle file if you find you require more lateral adjustment but the way it looks I don't see it coming to that.
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:41 PM   #22
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So lil me ordered the motor today,as well as a 11 and 13 tooth pinion,CF reinforcements for all 4 corners. As well a 90 amp Talon ESC with bec which I got a really good deal on. Should be here in a week as its getting shipped tomorrow. I am just itchin to see if this all works together I buy myself the best presents!!
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:59 PM   #23
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Well providing you get it all right including electrics, servos gyro and swash you will have a nice machine on your hands.

Are you going flybar or flybarless? What is the current (A) rating of the BEC and are you going with a receiver pack or powering the electronics of the 6S pack?
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:14 PM   #24
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What I have in it and for it. The servos are align 610"s,tail servo is a 650. The gyro is a ds760,ar7000 with sat receiver,I do have the switch and battery and wires for the 7000 if I want to go that way. Undecided on that. The esc is set already and was used on a align 550 with 6 volt servos. Not sure about the bec rating.Radio is going to be a older dx7 dsm2.All electrics are new and haven't even been powered up yet.

For now I am going to leave it as a flybar heli.Next summer I might convert to FBL.I just bought 2 other heli"s in the last 2 months as well as align DFC conversions for my 450 and 500 T-rex"s as well as 2 fbl controllers.The bank account is takin a real kickin right now!
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:33 AM   #25
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In many respects our helis would be similar. The AR7000 and DX7, the DS760, 6V servos and separate RX 2S battery. I also left mine on the flybar and I have a Flymentor installed for when I want to attempt new maneuvers or want to park her on a low hover while I scratch my nose

I run a Western Robotics 10A Hercules Linear BEC so all my peripherals get the power they require including the Navigation lighting.
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Old 12-10-2016, 08:43 AM   #26
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The ESC coming for it is a Talon HES09001. I guess while waiting for the motor I could bind the receiver and get the head setup. Not sure if I should run the RX off the ESC or use the batt pack and switch. Opinion??
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:50 AM   #27
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Sounds like a good idea
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:57 PM   #28
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So parts showed up today. I have it roughed in,gear mesh sure wont be a problem at all. The only thing I am really seeing is that the top of the pinion is about 1/8-3/16 of a inch short of being flush with the main gear. Did you run into this problem? Maybe a person could just grind the motor shaft flat spot a little higher to raise the gear? Or should a person look for a taller gear?

Other thing I hit here is that the nitro engine mounts on left and right have to be shortened to give the motor clearance to sit level. So I lose a little frame strength in that area..
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:20 PM   #29
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Certainly didn't experience any of those issues. The scorpion 4025-1100 is short enough not to reach the nitro mounts and the pinion lines up perfectly with the main gear.

I guess it is all down to your motor being of slightly awkward dimensions. The only solution is to raise the motor mount by filing the screw mounting holes upwards. That could run you into a problem if you cant devise a way to prevent the mount sinking back to its present position so you will need to devise stops. Does this make sense?
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:27 PM   #30
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Not quite the only solution. I could get a scorpion like you have,might fix the problem. Cost would be $230.00 Can dollars.Then I have to make sure I can get a pinion for it in a 13T.

Or take my spacer material which is 3/4 of a inch wide. Drill it so that the mount is level with the top. (when the spacers are standing on there sides) Bevel or slightly counter sink the mount screws ,which would make it a 3/4 rectangle. Slide it up into the frame with motor attached. Clamp it into position after lining up the pinion and height, and drill 2 bottom rear holes while using the front factory holes in the frame. Mark the overhang below the frame and grind it off.

Take a little work,but its a option. Best part is..I have a drill press in my hobby room in the house!!
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:31 PM   #31
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Obviously you can see more possibilities with the thing in front of your eyes but I agree any steps that will adversly affect the rigidity of the frame should be considered only as last resort.

The Scorpion motor, I think, comes in 5mm or 6mm spindle diameter. For obvious reasons the 6mm should be the preference.

The Scorpion motor being only 1100KV will require a much larger than 13T pinion. With a mod 0.7 170T standard main gear I use a 17T pinion to achieve a comfortably governed 2100RPM head-speed, that is a 1:10 ratio.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:06 AM   #32
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So me gots the brackets cut and holes drilled. One bracket the holes were perfect,the other I had to slightly file a hole out to get it to line up.Amazing how much play is in a drill press. But with only .007 inches ( to play with),even a sloppy drill press bearing can be out that much. But now another small snag or 2. I have to shorten the bolts that go from the side spacer brackets into the motor mount. An do a flat countersink on the bolt heads. Man I wish I had a bottoming bit for that right now. But I will do it with a file and micrometer and die for rethreading.

The scorpion motor is back in stock over here. I have a measurement from the scorpion site that looks like the motor shaft is about 3.80CM long or so. Does that sound right? That measurement is from the top of motor to end of shaft.Thats awfully long! What do you do? Cut it to fit your needs? Also this motor is a 6mm shaft I found.

Reason for the questions is that it might be a back up plan...either that or a big hammer!!! For sale...1 pail of small heli parts slightly distorted..
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:28 AM   #33
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It is quite strange as everything was a perfect fit when I did my conversion 6 years or so ago. I had none of the issues you have encountered, the motor mount fit was straight forward and the motor did fit like a glove. I am not sure of the length of the motor spindle and will try and measure it next time I have I have the heli in front of me if I can get my calipers in there or find an alternate way to do so. I certainly don't remember having to shorten the spindle and it mounted fine to accommodate the 15T pinion I started of with and later the 17T pinion to mesh perfectly.

No need to take desperate measures yet I am sure there is enough space in the 600 nitro frame to include all that is needed. I did remove the nitro clutch from the frame, many prefer to modify it and leave it in for the electric conversion.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:49 PM   #34
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Success is at hand!! Counter sunk the bolt heads today in the steel spacer brackets. Shortened the bolts up by about 4mm or so. Tightened it together and it fit like a glove.Nice and snug but not forced into position. The pinion lines up perfect and the top is about 1mm above the main gear.

Now all I have to do is drill on the line that you can see in the front square hole. That line in the hole lines up with the hole on the motor mount so I know its all inline. Swivel the rear up and drill (make) a hole the same height from the frame opening.That way if I change motors with a longer shaft height,I can just drop the main motor mount down to the bottom holes.The steel spacers will be fastened in with 3mm bolts with lock nuts.

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Old 12-19-2016, 11:41 PM   #35
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It looks like you got this sussed out I hope to see this part completed and in place pretty soon and on to the next thing as this step being the heart of the whole conversion is sorted
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:02 PM   #36
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So I got side tracked before and am going to play with the receiver right now. Couple of questions..what battery are you running for the RX? I am going to bind it with the 4.8V 1100MAH supplied pack. But me is thinking that it will be a little low powered for the servos..not voltage wise,just mah wise. Should a person switch to a higher mah?

2nd...if I run the RX off a separate battery pack powering it up in the lower slot...and hook up the esc for throttle only.Should a person clip the red wire off the esc connection so that it isn't trying to power up the receiver also? I have to much crap on the go right now and my brain is getting overloaded!!

I don't have a actual flight battery right now as they are 4 hours away from me. But at least I can get the servos and head setup in the mean time.
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:50 AM   #37
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If you are not running the electronics off the main pack with an ESC BEC you should snip the red wire from the throttle lead.

If you plan to use a 2S 7.4v LIPO it should be around 2600mah. This will require you to use a BEC on 6V rated at around 10A continuous. I use a Western Robotics Hercules Linear BEC for that purpose.
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Old 12-30-2016, 10:29 PM   #38
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So digging around I found a 7.4V 2100MAH new battery. I also found a ReactorX hiding upstairs. I originally bought it for the nitro build. It is a straight voltage reg that a lot of heli guys used way back when! It will cut down 7.4V to a solid 6V to the cyclic"s and 5.2 to the Gyro and rudder servo. I wonder if I should use it? I also seem to be having some servo chatter or noise. Kinda wondering if the servo cases are maybe flexing( binding) a little bit with the rubber mounts in them with no sleeves. Maybe I should dump the servo rubber mounts and just run straight to the frame?
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Old 12-31-2016, 06:14 AM   #39
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Not familiar with the Reactor X2 though it looks Ok on paper, I remember reading about it a while back. As far as your Servo chatter, not quite sure but you can test this easily I guess by taking them out of the chassis. I use the rubber mounts on mine to no adverse affect.
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:35 PM   #40
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The Scott Gray Reactor X is not the same as the Scott Gray Reactor X2.

Careful with the X. There is a reason they came out with the X2.
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