"2012 ALIGN T-REX 500E PRO" [picture build]

[Flying.finn]

This will be a "pictures with description" build thread of my new, "2011/12 ALIGN T-REX 500E PRO SUPER COMBO KIT" - [MODEL# KX-017015T] w/AR-9020 Rx.
Since I'm new to RC helis,.. but not mechanix or building things, this build should work out,... lol, BUT!.. I still choose to NOT embarrass myself by shooting this 1st build of mine, on video.
Pictures with descriptions is the "taco",.... whooops!... I mean "ticket"... "is the TICKET"! ... WHEEWW.. close one,.. almost got a plagarism wrap there,.. from "Finless" INCORPORATED!!!
"OK,... ON WITH THE SHOW....." we move fast around here,...

***** PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CHIME IN WITH ANY HELPFUL POSTS OR EVEN COMMENTS. THIS IS A RELAXED BUILD THREAD. *****

- Day #1,... Unpacked this beautiful box and found a, "- load" of parts in there...

[Flying.finn]

After rummaging through all of the bagged heli parts,.. [in a very "WELL" organized box i must add],... I started by giving the instruction book the "close once over".
Then I watched the "T-rex 500" build by "FINLESS", here on helifreak. Then I followed suit and took a piece of 400-grit sand paper, and smoothed over every rough edge on the frame pieces.
Then I installed the main bearing plates, [remember, the "ALIGN" logo faces to the inside,.. as in the bottom bearing plate logo points up, and the top bearing plate logo faces down]. So, then I installed the aluminum engine stand, the two gyro plates (later you get to choose to either mount the gyro up high, or down low). *But I have to say it does look pretty crowded downstairs,.. with the tail casing and tail servo w/arm attached already residing there.

Remember to "loc-tite" one side only, incase you need to open up the frame for any reason. And trust me,.. there's always reasons to open the frame side during your build,.. at least twice!
Day #2, got the plates installed and looked it all over, using the manual as a guide, and then loctited that left frame side.

[Flying.finn]

Then after being satisfied with my mounting choices, I proceeded to install the right frame side, [with no loctite]. I also put on the stock landing gear, [**I decided to upgrade my landing gear, as will be seen in later photos].
Put the completed frame onto a glass table, [someplace flat], then as you're installing the right frame side, you can "square it up". I then put the shaft in to help in the alignment, and to check for binding, etc.

[Flying.finn]

More pictures from day #1 and 2. [Front shots]. I installed the skid pipes and loctited the thread locks.
**P.S; I just parked the rubber boots on the front canopy mounts,.. they don't belong there. **

[Flying.finn]

I decided to post this "build thread w/accompanying pictures," after I had been building my heli for 4+ days already. I had taken a few pictures during those days,... but not enough,.. and even tore some of it back apart to take some more pictures.
After this point in the build though, I'll try to make it more of a "steady" build. I may even go back and "edit"/add more information, as time allows, to make this build thread as easy to follow as I can make it, and fill in any gaps for the total beginner builder.
I know how lost one can get when you're a "newbie",... heck.. I'm only 2-months into this gig myself!! But don't let that stop you from checking this out.
Mainly,.. I'd use "Finless" videos for a build,... this thread is to show the parts of a "NEWER MODEL" heli, and/or any changes that may have occurred in the past 132-years ,since "BoB" built the first RC heli out of "BEDROCK"!! ....LOL.. JUST KIDDING,.. actually,... we'd all be LOST! without "Finless Bobs" wisdom and shared expertise.

So,... now with the apologies out of the way, ...... on with the build...

- Basically in the manual, page #5 is where the build begins. [I started with pg.#9].
So after I got the frame assembled, [page #9], I read pages 5-8, and proceeded to tear apart the main rotor to be able to reassemble it again using loctite.
After that, I assembled all the linkage rods, measuring them with my digital caliper, to the specs outlined in the manual.

[Flying.finn]

Next up I read page #10 and #14 to install the servos and arms. Also peeked at the top of page #21 for reference.
After installing the servos,.. i found a "Finless" video showing how to NOT install your servos. Remember, make sure the screw holes in the servo are relieved enough, as to not allow "servo" binding after installation. *[the bends!!! ... which cause gear binding/lock-up inside the servo by forceably twisting the case].

I also swapped out my landing gear and put on a few decals...


The flybar got installed and measured 104mm on each side, then I put loctite on the paddle thread lock screws,.. making sure they lined up directly with the end of the see-saw.

[Flying.finn]

Here's a picture of my makeshift build centre, [or in laymans terms,... "The Kitchen"!].
Also making its debut,... the Align "Hughes 500e fuselage"!!!

[DominicD]

I would highly recommend against using metal servo horns.

[Flying.finn]

Originally Posted by DominicD

I would highly recommend against using metal servo horns.

How come? .... they came in the same bag as the Align DS510 servo,.... but then again... it also came with 9-extra plastic arms as well. Is there some sort of issue using the metal ones? ... wrecking the servo due to no give? ...

[Mike2112]

Originally Posted by DominicD

I would highly recommend against using metal servo horns.

Originally Posted by Flying.finn

How come? .... they came in the same bag as the Align DS510 servo,.... but then again... it also came with 9-extra plastic arms as well. Is there some sort of issue using the metal ones? ... wrecking the servo due to no give? ...

Check out the pics he has of a bad crash w/ metal servo arms.

[Youthanasia]

Originally Posted by Flying.finn

How come? .... they came in the same bag as the Align DS510 servo,.... but then again... it also came with 9-extra plastic arms as well. Is there some sort of issue using the metal ones? ... wrecking the servo due to no give? ...

I put them on my E-Pro and when I went to change the stock servos to MKS I couldn't get the damn metal horns off.

I had them all f@@ked up until I finally got them off!!! I will never use them again..

[DominicD]

I've never used metal horns. Most of the crash images in my galleries are of buddies. Here is one of kev's

[Flying.finn]

Since i'm having a "BUILD BREAK" after this post for this evening, ... I might as well sneak in a "SHOP" pic or two.
I also pulled out the "Hughes 500e" fuselage to get a better idea of the "grand scale" I'm actually dealing with here, [remember,... i am a newbie... and this thing really does look HUGE and intimidating to me. Almost humbling].

*Also at this time, I'd like to invite anyone with any questions, additions/corrections or what-have-you, to please feel free to chime in with your comments, thoughts, additions, etc.
I'll post the next part of the T-rex build tomorrow.

**When picking a work space for your build, make sure to have adequate lighting.

I also managed to get the front tail boom case installed late last night, [page #11 & 12], as well as taking the rear rotor assembly apart and reassembling it with dialectric grease and loctite.
Be careful reassembling the rear rotor unit as it has very small & easy to lose washers. Also seems like every part swings & turns in a different direction when you're trying to replace the bolts, with loctite applied.
Earlier I took it apart and pressed grease into the bearings, and put CA on the outer casing, [be very careful not to get any CA into the bearing itself]. Loctite all bolts, avoid getting any on the bearings.



Once the tail boom case bolts were installed with loctite, I installed the final 3-linkage arms connecting the DS-510 servos to the swashplate. I DIDN'T use loctite on the antirotation bar bolts when i installed it earlier, because it needs to be removed one last time after the elevator servo is installed. The elevator servo linkage rod needs to be installed, then the antirotation bar can be returned to its spot. Then loctite the short 1/4" long M2.5 set screws, insert them into each of the two remaining canopy pins, [screw them in almost 1/2 way]. After the loctite cures, [I let mine cure overnight], loctite the other end and screw it in, to lock the antirotation bar in place.

[Flying.finn]

Originally Posted by DominicD

I've never used metal horns. Most of the crash images in my galleries are of buddies. Here is one of kev's

AAAHHHHHH!!! .. now I understand. From an engineering/mechanical standpoint, that hits home 1000% They might look pretty, but I think I'll be getting me some plastic ones. What manufacturer makes good arms? .... not just the cheapest on the internet,.. like a bag of 10,000 for $5.00... lol. Thanks for the heads up guys,.. i'm learning a lot lately.

[DominicD]

Not sure about mini servos horns.

P.S. what part of canada are you in ?

[Flying.finn]

*** I'm in Thunder Bay, Ontario. ***
I'll probably just try & find some good servo arms on line. I don't mind ordering parts,... 99% of my heli stuff came from the internet anyway...lol. Usually order from the, U.S., Europe and South East Asia.

Here's 2 pics of my little "Heli-trunk".


Pic #2, all my, "charging goodies" + 1S, 2S, 3S, and 6S Lipo's, Flymentor, etc.....

[Flying.finn]

T.G.I.F.!! ... Well,.. this is the 3rd day of my T-rex build,.. and tonight will just be a short build. *[explanation coming up,... keeep reading].
I'll start with a few recap close-up pictures, of the tail boom case, servos, whole frame/heli pics, and main rotor.
***ALSO,.. something potentially DANGEROUS, came across my work table tonight,.. which is why only a few parts got modified/installed tonight].

After attaching the rear rotor to the boom and tightening the bolts,... I pulled on the boom, [as I saw Finless do on one of his videos], and it just came off!! ... way tooo easy!!
So,.. as in Finless Bobs video, he "pinned" the front of the boom to the tail boom case. My problem occured on the rear of the boom. So to be safe,.. I'm pinning both ends!
*[I'll post the "fix" pic as soon as i switch computers, as i took the pics with my home computer, and I'm on the laptop right now. Only have one internet connection here... can only afford ONE after buying all these heli parts! ... lol].

tail boom case installed.

Main rotor complete.


This is the modification i made tonight. After installing the tail rotor to the boom, and tightening the bolts,.. i pulled on it lightly and it ACTUALLY came off !! I'm using a short screw on the new hole I drilled opposite the factory pre-made hole. I'm also putting a short screw through the middle of the plastic hold cap, to make the "holding ability" better. I'm also pinning the front of the boom as well. Better safe than $orry...


I also installed the rear canopy mounts, which also hold on the antirotation bar to the frame.


* More pics tomorrow, showing the tail boom & rotor mounted with mods completed.

[DominicD]

Yup, Thunder Bay is way up there, if you are ever down this way give me a ping.

[Flying.finn]

Originally Posted by DominicD

Yup, Thunder Bay is way up there, if you are ever down this way give me a ping.

Definitely! ... I'd love to see my, "DREAM MACHINE", up close and personal,... the: "GOBLIN 700"!!!
I've watched Tareq fly those things around on youtube,... and WOW! ... that sound is just awesome. Also,.... having taken mechanical engineering, I'm totally in awe with the design of it. I'm looking at the new "630 Goblin" very seriously...
Actually,... I fly down to Toronto 4-5 times every summer to buy Mustangs,... drive them back.. and sell them up here in Thunder Bay.
My keeper I got last November from Mississauga,.. and the blue convertible from Cobourg, Ont., just on the east side of Toronto.








The 2005 Mustang convertible Deluxe Edition from Cobourg, Ont.

[Flying.finn]

Well,.. now that i've slept on it,.. I'm thinking back to last nights rotor to boom attachment problem. It just comes right apart! ... that's just sloppy, poor engineering... especially when it's an ongoing problem from new model to newer model,.. year after year!!

Reminds me of the old adage, "You're only as strong as your weakest link!"

I don't think there's even an aftermarket "upgrade" solution to this problem,.... is there? All it would take is a longer "nub" on the plastic cap. For that matter,.. it shouldn't even be PLASTIC!!

ANYWAYS,.... here's a picture I took last night,.. and I will post pics of the completed tail with both ends "pinned" later.

Here's my "quick" solution fix. I "DREMEL" drilled a hole on the other side, so I can double pin this sucker! With all the torque and pirouettes i'll be seeing,... it'll need the extra security. I'm also going to CA on a piece of rubber automotive vacuum hose to the thread portion of the pin screw, to make it a bit more snug.
The first installed "pin" is the smaller hole that I drilled last night. I decided to loctite the screw.
** Remember when picking out screws to use for your pins, make sure they're not too long... or it will hamper the tail rotor rotating shaft. I PUT THE EXACT SAME SCREW, AS I USED TO PIN, BESIDE IT TO SHOW EVERYONE THE LENGTH OF SCREW I USED. I ALSO FILED DOWN THE SHARP END OF THE SCREW BY 1MM.**


Next, I'm going to find a piece of vacuum hose for the threaded part of the main pin.



Now for a "jump back" picture to show the Flybar measurement: [to keep you all busy while I pin the boom].
Measure from the inside edge of the flybar paddle to the edge of the metal flybar seesaw holder, as shown on page #8 of the manual. The proper measurement should be, 104mm.