trex700E one way bearing slips

[f22warzone]

Originally Posted by rotaryguy

Building a new 700e, is the consensus to go ahead and pin while I am building or just see if it holds? As I type this I am telling myself I will likely just do it anyway.

mine is holding just fine, they may have just had a bad batch of green wanna be loctight.

[OICU812]

There was ZERO evidence of mine even having ANY loctite at all, no kidding.

[LegndarySaiyan]

Originally Posted by rotaryguy

Building a new 700e, is the consensus to go ahead and pin while I am building or just see if it holds? As I type this I am telling myself I will likely just do it anyway.

It is very unlikely you will separate the sleeve from the hub unless it has spun in the heli. I tried to take one apart that I had locktited back togther as to add set screws and even with the torch and freezer technique all I did was break a punch trying to twist the sleeve out using the bearing. I wouldn't worry about modifying your hub unless you later have a problem.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by LegndarySaiyan

It is very unlikely you will separate the sleeve from the hub unless it has spun in the heli. I tried to take one apart that I had locktited back togther as to add set screws and even with the torch and freezer technique all I did was break a punch trying to twist the sleeve out using the bearing. I wouldn't worry about modifying your hub unless you later have a problem.

+1 to that. The collateral damage of simply trying to get the thing out is probably not worth it. Like bearings, I grease when I replace, but tapping on them to get them out
causes more damage when new I dont do it anymore.

[TmMugen]

Just a quick question, I saw a friend of mine starting his trex700n and during starting up, the clutch seems to "slip". Wonder if this is the problem too.

[rotaryguy]

Originally Posted by In_to_the_Mystic_2003

+1 to that. The collateral damage of simply trying to get the thing out is probably not worth it. Like bearings, I grease when I replace, but tapping on them to get them out
causes more damage when new I dont do it anymore.

Came out with my bare hands and one of those little rubbery grippy cloths like you use to open a stubborn jar. I slotted it and did the set screw mod along with a helping of anaerobic glue. This was a brand new assembly BTW.

[drummer5140]

My 700N with 0 Flights has spun too I removed the sleeve and looked to be a drop of locktight only. Anyway used some perma red see what happens this weekend.

[Katanadude]

Originally Posted by drummer5140

My 700N with 0 Flights has spun too I removed the sleeve and looked to be a drop of locktight only. Anyway used some perma red see what happens this weekend.

How did the red locktite hold? I'm thinking of doing the same thing as I'm having the same issue on my 700E.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by Katanadude

How did the red locktite hold? I'm thinking of doing the same thing as I'm having the same issue on my 700E.

Red woud be bad if you ever needed to replace the one way. Green Retaining Compound is the way to go.

[LegndarySaiyan]

I use permatex high temperature sleeve retainer (green). I spun a couple owb sleeves and also discovered align is not using much loctite if any. I haven't had to resort to set screws yet, but when I spun mine, I scuffed the surfaces of the sleeve and hub and used a thorough coating of the sleeve retainer and haven't spun one since.

[rotaryguy]

Learn the difference between thread lock and an anaerobic glue or sleeve retaining compound, it'll save you headache down the road.

[Katanadude]

Took my new OWB apart and found grease between the sleeve and the hub with no trace of loctite. No wonder the OWB was not holding. Since I had red-loctite on hand I applied red-loctite after cleaning off the grease and lightly scoring the outer sleeve and hub surfaces with sandpaper.

Will see how this holds...

[Jotto]

How do you make threads for the set screw? Will it be sufficient to drill a hole and force the screw in?

[LegndarySaiyan]

The size is metric 3 x 0.5 I have a tap this size but I haven't had to use set screws yet as the sleeve retaining compound is still working well.

[nen77]

hy.

after a crash , i repaired the heli.
at first flight, i had a power loose(used throtle hold ) i blamed esc, reprogramed etc.
i made a second flight -safe one without guvernor,and after few seconds i had powel loose again. after i landed one way slips..but after few minutes not(later i figured that when loctite is cooling sleeve it stays fixed).i purchased a new one.but

after i found this topic i opened mine and after heating sleeve comed out by itself.
i not trust new part i want to fix the old one what kind of loctite to use ??

that one from align kit's is oki?
inside sleeve must be cleaned with sand paper?
the bearing it is not a perfect circle it has a part whre is flat like a part of circel is missing(i will make a picture)is that normal?

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D3LlkwPEbc&feature=related[/ame]
test flight with failure..

[haq0901]

I had the SAME scenario and blamed the esc for a second also.... This was obviously before I discovered this thread. But I simply took it apart cleaned it, drilled two holes on assembly 180 degrees apart for set screws, put red loctite on collar and inserted in assembly again. Tightened everything up again and it's a bull dozer now!

[StatiC]

Make sure the lower main shaft bearing block is not upside down. The bearing goes on the bottom. The V2 manual that came with my heli shows to install the bearing block upside down but then does show to put the bearing in from the bottom. I followed the bearing block pictures not even thinking logically how it works. On first spoolup right after it came up to speed I noticed a big RPM loss. I was only on the ground at zero pitch doing just some initial checks when it happened so I didn't have to auto it.

When the bottom bearing block is upside down the top of the one-way/main gear assembly rubs metal to metal against the bearing block until it heats up the one-way releasing the glue holding the one-way collar. It only took about 45 seconds for it to happen. I figured it was related to the one-way when I experienced the RPM loss because I felt around looking for hot spots and the main shaft was warm at the bottom. I at first thought it was the ESC.

[haq0901]

Kde bearing blocks were installed during initial build for my 700 so that's not what happened in my case.

[nen77]

Originally Posted by xStatiCa

Make sure the lower main shaft bearing block is not upside down. The bearing goes on the bottom. The V2 manual that came with my heli shows to install the bearing block upside down but then does show to put the bearing in from the bottom. I followed the bearing block pictures not even thinking logically how it works. On first spoolup right after it came up to speed I noticed a big RPM loss. I was only on the ground at zero pitch doing just some initial checks when it happened so I didn't have to auto it.

When the bottom bearing block is upside down the top of the one-way/main gear assembly rubs metal to metal against the bearing block until it heats up the one-way releasing the glue holding the one-way collar. It only took about 45 seconds for it to happen. I figured it was related to the one-way when I experienced the RPM loss because I felt around looking for hot spots and the main shaft was warm at the bottom. I at first thought it was the ESC.

i will check soon as i arrive home.
thank you..

i'm still not sure what loctite to use i have r48 from orginal kit is that trustable?

i have also all kind off loctite ..permanent , r243 etc.

[Jotto]

The green loctite that came with the kit didn't work for me. JB Weld did the trick!