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demon31 · 05-01-2014, 03:39 PM

hi

I recently got a 306B. When I run it at full 20amp and 12v, the input wires get extremely hot. At one point it melted the plastic coating and caused a short. Luckily the PS detected it and shut off. Anyone know why it's happening? its running 12 awg wire on the input side.
Thanks

RedOctobyr · 05-01-2014, 03:58 PM

20A output, with what cell count? Do you know how many amps it was pulling from the supply?

What are the connectors on the supply? Is it a commercial supply, or is it possible you have a bad solder joint on something you made, causing high resistance and heat?

A higher voltage supply will require less amps, and will keep the wires cooler.

Sent using Tapatalk.

demon31 · 05-01-2014, 04:22 PM

I'm charging 3x 6 cell batteries. It's a single dell 1000w supply. I actually just used the alligator clips to clip it to the output pins of the power supply. It's not pretty but it works (or maybe not)

Slyster · 05-01-2014, 04:26 PM

Use EC5s on both the power supply and cable end and the cable to charger end... and use jumper cable wire since good quality (even fat 8AWG wire) jumper cables are cheap. I run 8 feet (24V) and it barely gets warm even at 60A input. 24V would help too with your current setup... twice the voltage = half the amps (and heat)

I kept the clamps on one end of my jumper cable since I power with deep cycles instead of PSU.. but that doesn't make any difference to the wire of course.

Like this (on your PSU)

RedOctobyr · 05-01-2014, 04:30 PM

If in understanding correctly, are the alligator clips next to where it melted? I would expect they would add resistance and heat.

I would solder to the supply, preferably 10AWG or thicker, with at least 4mm bullets. EC5 would also be very good.

A second supply, for 24V, will keep things cooler, and also allow more power from the charger.

Sent using Tapatalk.

Drivelayer · 05-12-2014, 08:59 PM

I've had a similar issue. I re-soldered my connections on the power supply I was using and changed the 3mm connectors to 5mm on the input wires. that helped but the wires still get a little warm.
I have another power supply I would like to wire up for 24vdc but I have a turnigy mega 400 v2 and it states only up to 18vdc input.

05-01-2014, 03:39 PM	#1 (permalink)
demon31 Registered Users Join Date: Aug 2013	icharger 306B wire heating hi I recently got a 306B. When I run it at full 20amp and 12v, the input wires get extremely hot. At one point it melted the plastic coating and caused a short. Luckily the PS detected it and shut off. Anyone know why it's happening? its running 12 awg wire on the input side. Thanks

05-01-2014, 03:58 PM	#2 (permalink)
RedOctobyr Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jan 2011	Re: icharger 306B wire heating 20A output, with what cell count? Do you know how many amps it was pulling from the supply? What are the connectors on the supply? Is it a commercial supply, or is it possible you have a bad solder joint on something you made, causing high resistance and heat? A higher voltage supply will require less amps, and will keep the wires cooler. Sent using Tapatalk. __________________ Gaui X5, iKon, Edge 100, CC BEC Pro. Tarot 450 Pro FBL, Mini VBar, Ice Lite 50. BL mCP X, Nano QX, FrSky Taranis, iCharger 308Duo.

05-01-2014, 04:26 PM	#4 (permalink)
Slyster Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: May 2008	Use EC5s on both the power supply and cable end and the cable to charger end... and use jumper cable wire since good quality (even fat 8AWG wire) jumper cables are cheap. I run 8 feet (24V) and it barely gets warm even at 60A input. 24V would help too with your current setup... twice the voltage = half the amps (and heat) I kept the clamps on one end of my jumper cable since I power with deep cycles instead of PSU.. but that doesn't make any difference to the wire of course. Like this (on your PSU) __________________ "It's not just a hobby... it's a lifestyle" - Pete ϟ MINNESOTA! Goblin 500 + 700 / SK540 / Jives / DX8 / Quantum / RJX servos / 306b / Deep cycles

05-01-2014, 04:30 PM	#5 (permalink)
RedOctobyr Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jan 2011	Re: icharger 306B wire heating If in understanding correctly, are the alligator clips next to where it melted? I would expect they would add resistance and heat. I would solder to the supply, preferably 10AWG or thicker, with at least 4mm bullets. EC5 would also be very good. A second supply, for 24V, will keep things cooler, and also allow more power from the charger. Sent using Tapatalk. __________________ Gaui X5, iKon, Edge 100, CC BEC Pro. Tarot 450 Pro FBL, Mini VBar, Ice Lite 50. BL mCP X, Nano QX, FrSky Taranis, iCharger 308Duo.

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05-01-2014, 04:22 PM	#3 (permalink)
demon31 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Aug 2013	I'm charging 3x 6 cell batteries. It's a single dell 1000w supply. I actually just used the alligator clips to clip it to the output pins of the power supply. It's not pretty but it works (or maybe not)

05-12-2014, 08:59 PM	#6 (permalink)
Drivelayer Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2012	I've had a similar issue. I re-soldered my connections on the power supply I was using and changed the 3mm connectors to 5mm on the input wires. that helped but the wires still get a little warm. I have another power supply I would like to wire up for 24vdc but I have a turnigy mega 400 v2 and it states only up to 18vdc input.

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