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12-10-2011, 05:10 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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I know you drill the corners first, but what are you using to cut the straight lines in the tool box? Also did you finish the cut edges some way?
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12-10-2011, 06:35 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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Myself, I'm using a 3" x 1/8" cut off wheel on a air cut off tool at work. If I was home I'd use a dremel, rotozip or a jig saw with a fine metal blade. I'm not sure what "pctomlin" used in the box.
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TREX 600 Gasser (690 Mains, 700TT boom) - T-Rex 450 SE V2 - OpenPilot Revo - CC3D - Atom - Blade CPP (06' model and still going!) - Blade mCP x (Wha hooo) - JR9503, SPEKTRUM DX8, Sullivan Dynatron/Finer Edge AMA#621236 & IRCHA#4196 |
12-10-2011, 07:44 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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I used my Dremel to make the cutouts for the PSUs. Cut the long lines first with the abrasive wheel and then worked on the radius corners. The abrasive wheel could make some straight cuts across the corners to get the part being cut out removed. I then replaced the abrasive wheel with a round stone and finished out the radius corners. Once the radius corners were complete I used the large sanding drum to debur all the edges of the cutouts.
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Paul Agile 5.5 - Q 4125-1100, YEP 120, Brain2 HD FBL / Outrage 550 - HK4020-1390, Edge 120, Brain2 HD Rave Ballistic FSO - Q 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD / Protos Max V2 - MSH 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD |
12-11-2011, 08:37 AM | #44 (permalink) |
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I just finished the cutouts on my box last weekend.
I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel (you'll need a few) ... for the corners, I made straight cuts on a 45 deg. angle and just deburred everything with a round sanding bit. Looks great ... I'll post some photos when the box is complete. |
12-11-2011, 12:17 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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I am going to try something a bit different for my build. Removing the handles is a very "clean" way to do this build, but it looks like a LOT of work and I am afraid I would goof something up taking it all apart. Instead, I bought some flat stock Al and will use it as spacers both between the supplies and between the bottom supply and the box. We'll see how it works out.
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12-11-2011, 01:57 PM | #46 (permalink) |
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Atv223,
Have you seen the picture tutorial on removing the handles? It is not as hard as it looks.
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Paul Agile 5.5 - Q 4125-1100, YEP 120, Brain2 HD FBL / Outrage 550 - HK4020-1390, Edge 120, Brain2 HD Rave Ballistic FSO - Q 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD / Protos Max V2 - MSH 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD |
12-11-2011, 06:15 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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Yeah, it's an easy job, it just takes a little time is all ...
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12-11-2011, 06:18 PM | #48 (permalink) |
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I'm going to tackle the handles this week, I did the Plexiglass top in the tray today and the shelf.
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TREX 600 Gasser (690 Mains, 700TT boom) - T-Rex 450 SE V2 - OpenPilot Revo - CC3D - Atom - Blade CPP (06' model and still going!) - Blade mCP x (Wha hooo) - JR9503, SPEKTRUM DX8, Sullivan Dynatron/Finer Edge AMA#621236 & IRCHA#4196 |
12-12-2011, 01:03 PM | #49 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Maybe I'll take another look at. The thread on doing it was great, just seemed like lot of little things too mess up!
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12-14-2011, 11:51 AM | #50 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Let us know how it goes. I reread and printed pctomlin's post on stripping them, and it's certainly well done, just wondering if there's is anything that gets hung up or "dicey" along the way!
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12-15-2011, 09:33 PM | #51 (permalink) |
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Stripping the PSU cases bare is pretty straight forward with no real quirks that I came across. The only thing I had to be really careful with was lifting out the main board and then replacing the main board back into the case without scraping the bottom solder connections across the lower lip of the case. I found that if I tipped the case to almost vertical the main board came out and went in much better. Be sure you have a good grip on the board while doing this, it is fairly heavy.
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Paul Agile 5.5 - Q 4125-1100, YEP 120, Brain2 HD FBL / Outrage 550 - HK4020-1390, Edge 120, Brain2 HD Rave Ballistic FSO - Q 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD / Protos Max V2 - MSH 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD |
12-17-2011, 09:48 PM | #52 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Well, peer pressure got to me (and the fact that the tool box I chose was a tad smaller) so decided to strip the handles. I got one done and it still works! Next one tomorrow. It went OK, typical stuff with this kind of thing, hard to get some plugs removed, getting things in and out, etc but not too bad overall.
With that said, no way I could have done it without Pctomlin's detailed write up!! Thanks! Why I need a 24 volt 1800 watt power supply for an mCX, mSR and mCPX (2 of which are still in their boxes waiting for Christmas) , I don't know but I will soon have one :-) |
12-18-2011, 08:10 AM | #54 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Other than the fact that you'd drop down to 12V on your 24 output .... nothing. You'll also lose voltage on your 12V rail.
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12-18-2011, 11:06 AM | #55 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Quote:
Thanks for the answer.So I might as well put both on the same switch then,its no biggie if the either side is on and I'm not using it. I will rather have that than the voltage drop fiasco,thats if I forget to turn it on or off in the right sequence. |
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12-18-2011, 03:40 PM | #56 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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The one reason to have two switches, there would be no point in powering up both 12v and 24v sides if you aren't going to use the 24v side. Then again, I suppose the best option there would be to only plug in the one PSU.
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01-01-2012, 08:26 PM | #57 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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Big thanks to pctomlin I basically would have not done this build without his posts, I would also like to thank doctorj, on his use of the lowes toolbox and top. I can say this was a pretty indepth project from getting everything I needed to finish. I did a couple things that I have not seen done... 1. I found the connectors that would be used on the back plane of the server and soldered to those instead straight to the heatsinks. I did this incase one dies I didn't want to have to solder again just take out some screws put a new one in and you are ready. 2. I didn't open the one end of the box completely up I cut 6 holes 4 of which are for the fans and 2 for the plugs. I found some 60mm covers that fit perfect minus a little plastic trimming around the 2 sides that butt to the outlets. I am going to put switches in but I did something that I think is cool for that and just don't have them yet... I will update once those are in. I am also going to do something with the plexi top just don't have that all worked out, a guy in our club has a laser cutter/ingraver all you gaui fans look out for what I do there . Over all I am very happy I have 2 sets of 24v and 2 sets of 12v outlets for my 306b & tp610c, along with anyone that is looking to give their charger some power at the field or indoor. I did go with some high end banana jacks from DigiKey rated at 30A I couldn't find anything that was near a solid as these locally and we have a Frys in town along with high end audio most of them just said they are standard and after getting these I am glad I did. here is a link to them http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ds=501-1316-ND I used 8AWG on all 24v connections along with the mains on the 12v till I split then I used 10AWG. Bought the wire from HobbyKing and EPbuddy... I would recommend using EPBuddy when you figure the final cost its so cheap and you get it within 3 days really great service by them look for their balance boards too very solid designs! While I enjoyed the build I am really happy its over cutting that tool box was some detail cutting, at times I questioned why I didn't just cut two big holes!
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________________ Naked & Afraid Last edited by whippo; 01-01-2012 at 10:55 PM.. |
01-09-2012, 01:54 PM | #58 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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what do the fans in your 6650 supplies sound like... Mine sounds like an up and down speed. Also is there any way to control speed?
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01-09-2012, 06:36 PM | #59 (permalink) |
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The fans in the 6650s are still under control by the PSU so the speed will change on it's own according to load.
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Paul Agile 5.5 - Q 4125-1100, YEP 120, Brain2 HD FBL / Outrage 550 - HK4020-1390, Edge 120, Brain2 HD Rave Ballistic FSO - Q 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD / Protos Max V2 - MSH 4530-500, Edge 160HV, Brain2 HD |
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