MSH Protos Build Videos!

[Finless]

I am not seeing anything in the grips for counter weights. The grips are curved where the blade bolt goes through thus moving the bolt head and nut out a little farther than other helis might, but I don't think that is a counter weight.
Also these are plastic grips so the tennis racket effect is not going to be that strong.

Bob

[ping]

The extra weight molded into the grips themselves. Not being metal grips they require very little counter weight to counter the "tennis racket" effect which is why you don't see a ton of weight on there. They were neutrally balanced by design.

[HighFreq]

The counterbalance has been obtained by spacing the tail blade screws. We eliminated about 70% of the force needed with conventional screw. We tested the tail eliminating all the force but the tail was a little instable. We have made a lot of teoric and field research on that and felt the 70% was the best compromise between long servo life and locked in feel of the tail.


Corrado

[simmer]

sorry I dont understand this. Spacing the tail blade screws? Are you refering to the bolts that hold the tail blades in place, the bolts that go thru the hole in the tail baldes?


And if so, then your saying they are further out from the tail shaft bringing a positive effect on tail control?

[bapgood]

Originally Posted by HighFreq

The counterbalance has been obtained by spacing the tail blade screws. We eliminated about 70% of the force needed with conventional screw. We tested the tail eliminating all the force but the tail was a little instable. We have made a lot of teoric and field research on that and felt the 70% was the best compromise between long servo life and locked in feel of the tail.


Corrado

I believe this 100%, the weight reduction of the grips them self would seem to help quite a bit.

But one of the drawbacks of being a pioneer and designing outside of the box () is that it is not the same as all the others .

Thus making things difficult to compare to other heli's directly.

However a video documenting this like the ones in the tennis racket tread would be reassuring and give as close to apples vs. apples as possible.

Thanks again (both Corrado & Bob) for the invaluable information you guys provide.

[Finless]

Originally Posted by simmer

sorry I dont understand this. Spacing the tail blade screws? Are you refering to the bolts that hold the tail blades in place, the bolts that go thru the hole in the tail baldes?


And if so, then your saying they are further out from the tail shaft bringing a positive effect on tail control?

Ha! I guessed right

Bob

[expertrcpilot]

Originally Posted by Finless

Ha! I guessed right

Bob

Even a blind squirel finds a nut every once in a while!

Jokin!

I caught that as well, It just didn't look like what you had goin on in the vids you did.

Any who... I like dude's idea about a little more elaboration on it. I'm not insinuating that anyone is being misleading in the slightest. I simply think it would be cool to know a little more about why 70% turned out to be the magic number, and why anything above that created instability.

Thanks again fella's... good stuff

[Finless]

On all the tail weight mods I found that you still want a little force against the servo. Getting rid of all of it makes any slop in the slider, control rod, servo gears, etc show up as either a random wag (especially in turns) or a funky feel to the tail. So my opinion is you do still want a little effect force left in.

Bob

[expertrcpilot]

Ya just turned a light bulb on in my noodle. That makes sence to me. Thanks for putting it in laymens. *Gets to work on a little somethin*

[brettboz]

Great info thanks for that Corrado, I had been wondering the exact same thing yesterday after watching some of the other videos on here yesterday.

As for my build I have finally overtaken Finless....

[Finless]

All the videos are shot. I just need to get them compressed and posted.
Flying this weekend weather permitting.

Bob

[EricW]

Fast editing Bob
Wish you a very good maiden, let's hope the weather is ideal and you bring a skilled cameraman to keep up with the Protos .
I'm curious what headspeed/throttle setting you like for it most btw (i'm at 75% on the jazz).

Success

[brettboz]

Originally Posted by Finless

All the videos are shot. I just need to get them compressed and posted.
Flying this weekend weather permitting.

Bob

Looking forward to it,your videos have been a great help and Im looking to see how you review the flight.

[worldofmaya]

Bob, you were too fast... didn't get my servos, but after you finished I've to start now
I cross my fingers for good weather!
-klaus

[brettboz]

During placement of the motor I had to take out the screws holding motor block to the frame. This was because I had mine right at the back of the range as per the manual. But like this its impossible to get the back screw into the block. After fitting I realised I could in fact have taken the whole block out and put the screws in with the block out and then slipped it back in again.

For some reason the motor shaft doesnt look in alingment with the main shaft, not sure if its supposed to be or perhaps its a visual trick.

Also I have the 15T pinion in my box, is that normal??? Manual sees it should be 18t. Corrado, is my set wrong????

[gorn]

15t pinion is correct, it used to be 18 but headspeed is too high.
My motor shaft does not look aligned either, to me its an optical illusion.
I have flown 3 packs through mine, spanking it, no problems.

[Roadrune]

As long as the motor-bracket don't have a up or down, front or back, the motor has to be in center

[Finless]

All video except maiden flight are POSTED!

They are listed int he first post but here they are for quick ref.

Here is a new 101 video! If your servo wires are too long you can shorten them easily but WHAT IF your wires are too short? Use an extension or extend the wires MY WAY. Folks this is NOT for the unskilled and YES you violate your warrenty! But this is how I do it
Video Link -> Changing your Servo Wires! (42 Megs)

Video Link ->Step 7 Motor Install and Belt Adjustment (75 Megs)

Video Link ->Step 8 Electronics Install (75 Megs)

Video Link ->Step 9 Tail Supports and Landing Gear (39 Megs)

I am using the JR 770 gyro. For full setup see my JR 770 gyro setrp video here:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=95258

Video Link ->Step 10 Tail Servo Setup using the JR770 (32 Megs)

Video Link ->Final build thoughts and stuff (24 Megs)

[color=red]Maiden flight this weekend! Woo Hoo [COLOR]


Enjoy!
Bob

[Heli-Beginner]

Great Job Bob!!!

[smokingtommy]

as all ways first class build vids with added extras
very intresting on the last vid
earthing the main frame to the boom
dose this only work with plastic
or is it optimal with carbon (would it work on a 450 etc )
in england this heli retails at £215 not bad but no esc
and with the cost of things going up a esc is going to set you back about £65-90
which puts it in the same ball park as all the other 500 /550 out there
so lets do a summery
heli £215
servos futaba s9650 x 3 £45 each = £135
and a esc lets hit a ball park here £80
and a 6s lipo again lets say £85
wow thats £515 give or take
so what makes this heli stand out from the rest
and the gyro but i have 4 futaba 401s so im not over fussed about that but even still you can put £100 on top of the bill if you dont have one and the servo again the futaba s9650 works well with a401grand total £660
wow just looked up a futaba s9650 midland heli come on £65 what gives
http://www.modelhelicopters.co.uk/cg...a1_21P_2dS9650

hope to see a good report on this heli on the test fly
as always a great lot of time and effort from BOB in posting the vids

side note im very intrested in this heli is she worth it