How to remove the bell crank arms??? Figured out.....

[Epoweredrc]

Ok so on this old trex 600 electric with old bell cranks the bell crank has some side to side movement. The elevator arm is right at the main shaft when the cranks are pushed to the left side of the heli... should this thing move like that?? I wouldn't think so ..

I was going to remove the one on the right and put some washers behind it so it couldn't slide but it doesn't want to come off. What is holding it on there??

Do I even need the bell cranks on the front two servos? It seems if I turned the arm to be forward back and put the ball on the backside then I could just directly hook it up??

The elevator in back not sure. It I could do away with it or not.

Maybe I should just order a right and a left newer 600 frame and swap it over I guess all my other frame parts would interchange.

Thanks for any and all info

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[Epoweredrc]

Forgot to add pic of what mine looks like



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[Heli.Maniac]

I don't know about your bellcrank issue, but if by newer frame you mean the frame of the 600pro, you will need more parts to make it fit your heli. You will need the new bearing blocks which are metal instead of plastic and possibly a new motor mount and some other parts (main shaft, elevator-antirotation combo arm etc).

As far as completely removing the bellcranks and going direct-to-servo, I think that it can be done by just moving the servo arm 90degrees and mounting the ball on the opposite side so that the links stay parallel.

[Epoweredrc]

Originally Posted by Heli.Maniac

I don't know about your bellcrank issue, but if by newer frame you mean the frame of the 600pro, you will need more parts to make it fit your heli. You will need the new bearing blocks which are metal instead of plastic and possibly a new motor mount and some other parts (main shaft, elevator-antirotation combo arm etc).

As far as completely removing the bellcranks and going direct-to-servo, I think that it can be done by just moving the servo arm 90degrees and mounting the ball on the opposite side so that the links stay parallel.

well, I would like to get aluminum bearing blocks, and im going to change it to FBL so it be getting a shorter main shaft

thanks for the info that is what i was thinking on the front two. still not sure on the rear one.

[Heli.Maniac]

Originally Posted by Epoweredrc

still not sure on the rear one.

The Pro still has an elevator arm that is like a bellcrank so the rear one may need quite a bit more work and modding to make it direct to servo configuration. I don't think it is worth the extra effort as there is very little gain to be achieved for flight performance.

[Epoweredrc]

Originally Posted by Heli.Maniac

The Pro still has an elevator arm that is like a bellcrank so the rear one may need quite a bit more work and modding to make it direct to servo configuration. I don't think it is worth the extra effort as there is very little gain to be achieved for flight performance.

Really, wow. i wonder why the 600 is driffrent from the 500 and 450

[Epoweredrc]

Anyone know how the bell cranks come off the heli?? Thinking about doing away with them to make a cleaner look plan to put my new servos in tomorrow

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[Heli.Maniac]

There is a screw that holds it in place, if you remove that the arm should slide right out.

[Epoweredrc]

A screw that hold each crank on?? I was able to move it in a tiny bit the bearing would pop out but not enough to get a grip to pull it out.

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[Gladius]

There's a shaft that runs through the heli. Each bell crank fits over the end of the shaft, with a bolt that holds them on. It's exactly like a feathering shaft. If you've taken one of the bolts off, then you should just be able to pull the shaft out.

It's possible that the person you bought it from applied some Loctite to the bearings, and that's why it's not coming out easily. You could try using a hairdryer to warm it up, and try to break it loose.

Also, (I'm not sure about the CF, but this was the case on my ESP) there may be a grub screw holding something in place between the frame sides. Check for that before yanking on the shaft.

[Epoweredrc]

Originally Posted by Gladius

There's a shaft that runs through the heli. Each bell crank fits over the end of the shaft, with a bolt that holds them on. It's exactly like a feathering shaft. If you've taken one of the bolts off, then you should just be able to pull the shaft out.

It's possible that the person you bought it from applied some Loctite to the bearings, and that's why it's not coming out easily. You could try using a hairdryer to warm it up, and try to break it loose.

Also, (I'm not sure about the CF, but this was the case on my ESP) there may be a grub screw holding something in place between the frame sides. Check for that before yanking on the shaft.

Thanks, yeah I wasn't sure at first how it worked. i was thinking the cranks were connected to the rod some how but then i got to thinking well i guess the rod is just so they can pivot on it. before i was messing with it i could turn the left screw and the elevator crank would move but after trying to get it loose it just spins freely i will mess with it some today.

thought about something tho. if i remove both bellcranks won't the rod then be still sticking out the side of the heli?? since the elevator has to use it from what people have said.. i keep looking at pictures of other 600s online to see how they look.

[Epoweredrc]

Well, I just replaced the servos, decided to just leave the bell cranks alone. they work. and i guess its less stress on the servos. its just ugly to me. had some things come up and so i guess i will just fly it as it is. maybe i get my FBL head from a member here by middle week or so and maybe by the weekend i can try it out FBL. guess I will be sticking my Beast X unit on it.

[Gladius]

OK, I finally found a picture of the inside of a CF, and can now see that you do have an elevator arm between the frames. The ESP has one too, but the elevator attaches to the front of the swash, instead of the back like your CF.

There should be a grub screw holding that arm to the shaft. Once it's loosened, you should be able to pull the shaft out of one side. If you need to get a grip on the shaft, you can use a set of vice grips. Wrap a large rubber band around the shaft, and grip that with the vice grips so you don't damage the shaft.

[SumOFparts]

I would leave the bell cranks on - as it is now it'll fly like a fusion 50 -
and everyone that has/had brags about how well they fly.....linear response wise.

Back in the day - these were the 'goto' to learn to fly because of this.....
much better than a crappy micro.

-

[Epoweredrc]

Originally Posted by Gladius

OK, I finally found a picture of the inside of a CF, and can now see that you do have an elevator arm between the frames. The ESP has one too, but the elevator attaches to the front of the swash, instead of the back like your CF.

There should be a grub screw holding that arm to the shaft. Once it's loosened, you should be able to pull the shaft out of one side. If you need to get a grip on the shaft, you can use a set of vice grips. Wrap a large rubber band around the shaft, and grip that with the vice grips so you don't damage the shaft.

Thanks for the info. Yes I knew the elevator crank had a grub screw in it not sure why. Or maybe mines not holding the whole thing moves back and forth sideways on the outside of the frame the cranks move and the center inside the frame the elevator crank slides back and forth that is why I was trying to get it off to start with to shim it some how. The ball on the elevator crank is rubbing the main gear

Originally Posted by SumOFparts

I would leave the bell cranks on - as it is now it'll fly like a fusion 50 -
and everyone that has/had brags about how well they fly.....linear response wise.

Oh yeah, well will leave alone for now

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[Epoweredrc]

Well I still need to get the bell crank off to put some spacers so it can't slide back and forth... it is changing my pitch when it slides from.one side to the other. Not sure how to old the one side from turning so try the opposite side

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[Epoweredrc]

Well i finally got the left screw to unscrew and was able to pull it out the right side. now i understand how the center crank for the elevator works. it has a turned down spot on the shaft where the grub screw is suppose to ride and keep it from sliding but mine seems o get tight before it ever gets down below the turned down part so mine moves a lil more. but i put some spaces behind the cranks and now there is no side to side play on the outside of the frame. i think this will be better but worried about the center one moving now. Maybe I could get some wheel collars to put on either side on the shaft and just tighten those down on the shaft. or maybe it won't matter. I still am not a fan of the set up.

[MGPTWEGB]

RC tek makes some nice bearing blocks for the CF model ....

I use all three main blocks from RC - TEK (I2) with the Nitro CF main shaft... Tarot FLB main block with the Align DFC grips this is the best FBL combo out there for the Align 600...
KDE makes a very nice oneway hub that allows the use of the 700 main gear if your going SUPER POWER with your setup.

[rcflyerheli]

Originally Posted by Gladius

There's a shaft that runs through the heli. Each bell crank fits over the end of the shaft, with a bolt that holds them on. It's exactly like a feathering shaft. If you've taken one of the bolts off, then you should just be able to pull the shaft out.

It's possible that the person you bought it from applied some Loctite to the bearings, and that's why it's not coming out easily. You could try using a hairdryer to warm it up, and try to break it loose.

Also, (I'm not sure about the CF, but this was the case on my ESP) there may be a grub screw holding something in place between the frame sides. Check for that before yanking on the shaft.

The two bellcranks rotate freely on the outside of the shaft, but the elevator arm has to lock onto the shaft inside of the grooved area at the center. There are 4 5mm x 7mm washers (shims) that go on the outside of the frame as needed to take out side to side play.

Hope this helps.

[Epoweredrc]

Thank you for that picture. I looked at a manual there so many driffrent ones and i didn't see any washers. my gub screw is messed up i guess and doesn't hold it in the groove I made some spacers to go on either side of the elevator crank it works well